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Along with my good friend and fellow travel writer, Kris Grant, I recently visited Palm Springs for several days and thoroughly enjoyed savoring every moment at the boutique hotels where we stayed and visited — all part of the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels group. 

The unique hotels in this group each have 49 rooms or less (sometimes much less) and are bursting with charm and cozy comfort. Over the years, I have stayed in quite a few of these small hotels and loved them all. This visit was no exception. The three hotels we focused on during this visit hark back to the days of old Hollywood, when Palm Springs was a glam retreat for celebrities wanting to escape and relax. And that’s what we were looking for too!

The Muse Hotel Palm Springs

The entrance to The Muse Hotel with the sign lit up at night

The Muse Hotel is all aglow at night. Photo: Sue Montgomery

I stayed at The Muse Hotel Palm Springs, a recently renovated property with nine distinctively decorated rooms, most of them suites. My lovely suite had everything I needed for a wonderful stay: an inviting sitting area, a fully-equipped kitchen, and a luxurious bedroom with an oh so comfy bed. Each suite at The Muse is named after a famous movie star — accommodations include the Kate, the Marilyn, and the Audrey — and is individually decorated.

This is a pet-friendly hotel featuring free convenient parking, complimentary WiFi, and breakfast every day, plus you’re only five minutes from the fun shopping and restaurants in downtown Palm Springs. 

Right outside my room (I was in the contemporary Kate suite),  the courtyard was bright and cheerful with a glistening pool whimsically populated with bouncing flamingoes. I spent a few lazy afternoon hours there reading a good book and dozing off in a relaxing lounge chair. This adults-only hotel is perfect for a couple’s romantic getaway or also for a girls’ break from daily life. At night you can have a cocktail around the outdoor fireplace. This is such a special getaway for relaxing while relishing the feel of star-studded days gone by.

I learned from the owners, Maggie Vineyard and Greg Williams, that they had collaborated with Lisa Bell of Belle Design Build in the redesign of the previous hotel on this site. (I stayed in the previous hotel several years ago and the current impressive transformation is amazing.) “Lisa was a joy to collaborate with,” Maggie said. “She really understood my vision and was able to take my  inspiration board of a fun, retro ‘girly’ vibe and bring it to life.”

Maggie also pointed out that she wanted to provide a relaxing retreat for a carefree experience while catering to small groups such as bachelorette or birthday parties, where guests could each have their own rooms but also enjoy a communal place for casual gatherings. She emphasized that a few fun surprises will be coming soon that will include lots of planning ideas for a wonderful itinerary while visiting Palm Springs.

Lucille Palm Springs

The outside of the lobby at The Lucille Palm Springs with colorful tile and windows

The Lucille Palm Springs has beautiful tile work throughout the property. Photo courtesy of The Lucille Palm Springs

My friend, Kris, stayed at the Lucille Palm Springs and was just as entranced with her accommodations. Featuring charming Spanish Moorish architecture, this exquisite hotel sits on a beautifully landscaped site surrounding five bungalows and four bedroom suites. This 1920s property was purchased in the late 1930s by former Hollywood dancers, Richard and Lisa Sinclair, who expanded and updated the property, making  it a popular destination for Hollywood celebrities. For instance, Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz, who were close friends of the Sinclairs, frequently retreated to the hotel.

In 2000, new owners Dave and Trudy Johnston renovated the hotel, and in 2023 the newest owner, Celeste Burgoyne, did more remodeling and added more rooms. All the bungalows have plush linens and toiletries, Nepresso coffee machines, and outdoor hot tubs. Kris shared that she really enjoyed quite an upscale continental breakfast, including made-to-order espresso drinks, and was enchanted staying in the Prickly Pear unit, where Lucy and Desi used to sleep.

Kris loved that outside her front patio was a lovely orange tree, and enjoyed wandering down the brick-lined pathways, which occasionally featured vibrant mosaics and painted murals that led to private sitting areas with trickling fountains. What else could you ask for in a delightful getaway spot?

The Velvet Rope

A framed portrait of Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz in the teal and pink colored Ricardo Suite at The Velvet Rope in Palm Springs, California

Together, we visited the Velvet Rope, a laid-back but elegant hotel with nine distinctive suites, created by owner and well-known designer David Rios. Built in the 1950s and originally called The Desert Mirage, this mid-century modern hotel understandably attracted the Hollywood elite, who enjoyed the hotel’s clean lines and elegant vibe, which it still features today despite several renovations. Now each room is contemporary, but harks back to early Hollywood days with custom furniture and striking artwork that pops with color. 

We explored the Ricardo Suite with its dazzling, colorful design touches. Other suites include the Ratpack Suite, paying tribute to Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, and Sammy Davis Jr.; the Lavender Suite honoring Elizabeth Taylor and featuring a make-up vanity and rainfall shower; and the Honeymoon Suite, which is a tribute to Elvis with a Graceland vibe and touches of blue velvet.

The Velvet Rope suites surround an inviting pool in a pleasant courtyard featuring Bar Valerie, where guests can enjoy drinks, small plates, and sometimes rocking live music.  And of course you’ll find every amenity you could desire from complimentary WiFi, bottled water, comfy cabanas, and a light breakfast and coffee each morning.

The Muse, the Lucille, and the Velvet Rope are wonderful destinations if you want to relax in a comfortable getaway while capturing the ambiance of Hollywood’s glory days.

 

When I learned that travel writers Susan Montgomery and Kris Grant were invited to Palm Springs, I gently inched my way into tagging along. I had met Susan on my travels, and she called because she wanted me to meet Kris.

Organizations in town invite travel writers to stay and experience various aspects of Palm Springs. In this case, Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels developed an itinerary for Susan and Kris, so they would have personal experiences and could write authentically without resorting to online research or AI to bring their articles alive. Plus, they can include the small nuances that digital research misses.

An introduction to Palm Springs’ culinary scene

Three women sit at a table inside Azucar Restaurant in Palm Springs, California, with the chef standing next to them

Kris Grant, Kathy Condon, and Susan Montgomery meet Chef Seth at Azucar. Photo courtesy of Kathy Condon

I was an interloper, but Jose Pembo graciously welcomed us to Azucar at La Serena Villas, making room for three instead of the planned two. We were seated at a table inside that had an unobstructed view of the pool, which serves as the hotel’s centerpiece.

It was a hot day, so I have to say the iced tea was the perfect choice to quench my thirst and begin getting to know the travel writers. Both had been to Palm Springs before and were eager to be updated on the latest news. For example, the Marilyn statue was being moved a short distance to our new beautiful park.

Jose asked if we wanted to order off the menu or let Chef Seth decide what he wanted to serve us. With smiles, the writers said, “Let him decide.” I am so glad they made that decision, otherwise I would never have thought to try Campo Grande Ibérico — rack of pork with roasted shallots on a bed of mostarda sauce. I will be back and will order that entree.

Pro tip: If you are in the area at night, head to Azucar’s rooftop bar, Sugar High, which offers a beautiful view of Palm Springs and its magnificent mountains.

Settling in

The pool at The Lucille Palm Springs with the San Jacinto Mountains in the background

The Lucille recently underwent a total revamp. Photo courtesy of The Lucille

The writers registered at two assigned hotels, The Lucille and The Muse, and later at one of our events, it was fun listening to them describe their very different inns. Since I had never been to either of them, I learned a great deal listening to their descriptions and noticed how happy they were with the hotel choices.

Dining at Freddie’s Kitchen

A sign reading "Freddy's" outside of the restaurant at The Cole in Palm Springs, California

Welcome to Freddie’s. Photo by Kathy Condon

I had read raving reviews of Freddie’s French-like cuisine. The restaurant is connected to The Cole Hotel, a contemporary property embracing the modernism vibe, and I was pleased to be invited by Kimberli Munkres, who planned the travel writers’ itinerary.

Refreshed from a short rest, the writers came in with notebooks open and ready to learn more about Palm Springs. They were surprised that we have 80 small hotels within the city limits. Small hotels are defined as having 49 rooms or less.

It was fun sharing some of the themes of the hotels, such as contemporary with a modernist feel and serene haven perfect for meditation without televisions or radios.

Chef Freddy kept us captivated with his stories and explanations about the food he prepared for us. We appreciated the French twist on the dishes and now know why this often-overlooked restaurant is gaining momentum with Palm Springs foodies.

A night at Sparrows Lodge

A flame dances in the night in a fire pit at Sparrows Lodge in Palm Springs, California

Fire pits keep you warm and toasty at Sparrows Lodge. Photo courtesy of Kathy Condon

The Sparrows Lodge is an exceptional place, and many residents of Palm Springs are unaware of the beautiful attributes of this property. When driving on South Palm Canyon Drive, look for the white line graphic sign with two sparrows, nothing more.

We settled in for dinner at The Barn Kitchen, where our conversation was lively. The staff seemed to anticipate our every need. It was one of those evenings you didn’t want to end. The weather was perfect, the atmosphere was superb, and I had probably the best dessert ever: passion fruit, chocolate mousse, and coconut crumble.

After dinner, I asked a staff member if the writers could see a room. They graciously said yes, and I smiled as they marveled at the very unusual room décor. For example, a tall stone wall provides a refuge for a bath in a former water trough. I will leave the rest for you to explore when you stay here. Sparrows Lodge recently received the Michelin Key, a new category recognizing hotels.

Alas, it was time to say goodbye to these two delightful women. It was terrific reversing my role, helping others understand our community instead of being the one exploring. Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels provided an excellent, not overstuffed itinerary so they could slowly and thoughtfully absorb the many attributes of our restaurants and hotels here in Palm Springs.