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Coachella may be the name on everyone’s lips, but Stagecoach is growing by leaps and bounds. The older fan base is now being joined by Gen Z — after all, good music is good music, am I right? Not to mention, back in 2008 Taylor Swift was on the main stage. That was 16 years ago (I did the math), before she crossed over to pop and goddess status. This year they’ve got Jelly Roll, Willie Nelson, Post Malone, Morgan Wallen, and Miranda Lambert — just five of the 19 performers set to play.

Smaller than Coachella with fewer guy vs. flip flop moments, the Stagecoach Festival is 100 percent about the music, not the celebrities who attend. Because it is smaller than Coachella, traffic won’t be as intense, so you can make it a full-on Old West vibe by staying at one of our historic Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels and resorts and enjoy the best of two worlds.

With traffic, it might take an hour to get to the festival and park, but considering it took me an hour to drive to the Hollywood Bowl and 20 minutes to walk from my L.A. apartment, that’s a breeze. If you’re planning on doing some drinking while you’re there, no problem. We have Uber, Lyft, and Xpress Shuttles, a private shuttle service, all great options so you can keep your license. 

Palm Springs hotels with Stagecoach vibes

Stagecoach is only two months away, so let’s get those rooms booked, shall we? Here’s a roundup of fabulous properties to enhance your Stagecoach experience:

The pool surrounded by lounge chairs at Old Ranch Inn in Palm Springs, California

A sparkling pool awaits at the Old Ranch Inn. Photo courtesy of Old Ranch Inn

Old Ranch Inn — Eight luxurious rooms, Old West feel, new west luxury. Kitchenettes. From their website: “Old Ranch Inn sits in the heart of the historic Tennis Club area and is steps away from the downtown Palm Springs village. The Tennis Club area has a long and fascinating history with Hollywood celebrities, politicians, statesmen, and infamous world travelers who made Palm Springs their personal desert hideaway.”

A quaint bungalow with a tile roof at Casa Cody boutique hotel in Palm Springs, California

Casa Cody is the oldest standing inn in Palm Springs. Photo courtesy of Casa Cody

Casa Cody — Built in the 1930s, Casa Cody is the oldest standing inn in Palm Springs. Rich in history with gorgeous grounds, it’s a wonderful place to rejuvenate after a day of party. Centrally located and just steps away from downtown Palm Springs, all the great restaurants are walkable, yet your nights will be peaceful and quiet.

Coyote Inn's courtyard with palms and potted cacti

The Coyote Inn’s peaceful courtyard is always open to guests. Photo courtesy of Coyote Inn

Coyote Inn — Fireplace, hot tub, kitchenettes, walled and gated for ultimate privacy. Construction was in 1953, old Spanish Mission style. With seven rooms it’s your own little hideaway. It’s absolutely adorable.

The exterior of Hotel California in Palm Springs, California, with a palm tree in front of it

Welcome to the Hotel California. Photo courtesy of Hotel California

Hotel California — Unlike the hotel in the song, you can absolutely leave. The question is, why would you want to? You’ll have to peel yourself away from the rustic quaintness. Sparkling pool, all the peace. On the south end of Palm Springs, walk to Elmers, Mr. Lyons, Gigi’s, El Mirasol, and So•Pa (if you’re very fancy). 

The outside of the lobby at The Lucille Palm Springs with colorful tile and windows

The Lucille Palm Springs has beautiful tile work throughout the property. Photo courtesy of The Lucille Palm Springs

Lucille Palm Springs — Built in 1921, reimagined in 2024, its stark white exterior is kinda Santorini in Palm Springs but instead of the ocean you get a big gorgeous pool and kitchenettes. Named in honor of Lucille Ball, a longtime fan of the property back in the day.

The white building welcoming guests to the Yara Hotel in Palm Springs, California

Yara Hotel is one of the newest boutique hotels to open in Palm Springs. Photo courtesy of Yara Hotel

Yara Hotel — Some call it Spanish but to me it’s Moroccan with nice splashes of modern. Another smaller hotel, rent all 10 rooms and get the place to yourself. It’s pretty cool.

Black Adirondack chairs surround the blazing fire pit during an evening at Hotel El Cid in Palm Springs

Gather round the fire pit for an unforgettable desert night. Photo courtesy of Hotel El Cid

Hotel El Cid — From their website: “We designed El Cid to accommodate only one select group at a time. Six completely new, bungalow style units (a total of seven bedrooms and seven bathrooms) offer polished concrete floors, lots of leather and reclaimed wood, and a fun, California boho style. Most units offer living and dining areas and kitchenettes with wine fridges. All have fast internet and extra large 4K TVs.”

If you haven’t gotten your Stagecoach tix yet, you can use that link I just gave you. And if they’re sold out by the time you read this, then just come visit Palm Springs for a spell. Stagecoach isn’t the only party in town! 

What do you think of when planning a visit to Palm Springs?  Of course, I envision gorgeous, soaring palm trees and dramatic mountain vistas highlighted by an almost endless, glorious, radiant sun. Upscale unique shopping and fascinating museums are also on my to-do list. And then there is that stunning trip up the mountainside on the one-of-a-kind Palm Springs Aerial Tramway.

I think of all these attractions, but mostly I think of the charming boutique hotels and also the beautifully presented dishes offered by a wide variety of excellent restaurants.

Kris, a fellow adventuresome travel writer, and I recently visited Palm Springs and focused on the small hotels and food. We both stayed in different Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels — I was at The Muse, where I had a modern comfortable suite and was happily entranced by the cheerful colors and sparkling pool with floating flamingoes. Kris stayed at the Lucille Palm Springs, a Spanish Revival property featuring lush, soothing surroundings.  

In a future article I will focus on these hotels and also on the The Velvet Rope, where we enjoyed touring rooms focused on famous celebrity visitors to Palm Springs. But now I want to share the great restaurants we visited. I’ve visited Palm Springs quite a few times and enjoyed many fabulous restaurants, but this time we mainly dined at places new to us, and they were all outstanding.

Azúcar at La Serena Villas

A plate of Shishito peppers at Azúcar at La Serena Villas

Shishito peppers are a great addition to any meal at Azúcar. Photo by Sue Montgomery

We had a lovely late lunch at Azúcar, located on the grounds of the luxurious La Serena Villas, another special Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotel. We enjoyed the artistically decorated dining area with its enticing menu. We asked the friendly server to bring us some of his favorite dishes. I started our meal with a tangy margarita, which was the perfect accompaniment to crispy, house-made chips and tasty, chunky guacamole. 

This was followed by yummy blistered Shishito peppers served on an ajo (garlic) blanco-style puree, finished with house-made vinegar and bread crumbs. We also enjoyed charred escarole served with an Italian style salsa verde on a bed of leek puree. Our featured dish was succulent grande Iberico pork rack with roasted shallots on a bed of mostarda sauce (made of candied fruit and mustard syrup). The scrumptious vanilla bean pudding topped with whipped cream and served with warm churros was the perfect ending to our wonderful lunch.

Freddie’s Kitchen at The Cole Hotel

A bowl of French onion soup in a white crock from Freddie's Kitchen

A warm bowl of French onion soup is a treat at Freddie’s Kitchen. Photo by Sue Montgomery

After checking into our hotels we met a friend at Freddie’s Kitchen at The Cole Hotel, a newly remodeled small hotel. The atmosphere is fun and casual with food reflecting what the chef describes as “French California cuisine with a focus on France but an international flair.” Chef and owner Frederic Pierrel was born in Alsace, France, and studied cuisine in his native country. This is where he learned to love using seasonal ingredients as he does at Freddie’s. Appropriately, we all started our meals with savory French onion soup. My entrée was Australian barramundi al la plancha, which was delicious. (“Plancha” is a Spanish term meaning cooked on a very hot flattop grill.)  This special fish dish was flavorful but mild. The French-style dark chocolate mousse for desert was a wonderful cap to to an enjoyable meal.

Farm Palm Springs

A plate with a salmon and egg crepe on it topped by a salad

The salmon crepe at The Farm Palm Springs. Photo by Sue Montgomery

Early the next morning, three of us had breakfast at the Farm Palm Springs, a popular spot featuring farm-to-table Provencal dishes in an enchanting country patio setting.  We each ordered different varieties of crepes. I had a delectable crepe full of portobello and shiitake mushrooms, Gruyère cheese, and crème fraiche. It was truly heaven. One of my friends enjoyed a crepe bursting with salmon and spinach, while the other loved her sweet crepe filled with Nutella, chocolate, and strawberries. The atmosphere was warm and gracious. We will definitely return to this welcoming cafe, which is also open for lunch and dinner.

The Barn Kitchen at Sparrows Lodge

A plate of smashed cucumbers at Sparrows Lodge

The unique smashed cucumbers dish at Sparrows Lodge. Photo by Sue Montgomery

After a relaxing afternoon, we were mesmerized during dinner by the magical allure of the Barn Kitchen at Sparrows Lodge, another PSPSH hotel in a lovely setting with twinkling lights adding to the outdoor patio’s ambiance. Our meal began with cocktails and appetizers. We savored the beautifully presented hummus served with cucumber, Kalamata olives, pickled onion, and grilled pita. We also ordered smashed cucumbers, an intriguing dish enhanced by salsa, scallions, peanuts, sesame seeds, and festive cucumber flowers. I am a cucumber lover and this was the most creative presentation of the vegetable I’ve ever tried.

We each ordered a different entrée. My vegetarian dish was roasted organic cauliflower steak served with marble potatoes and topped with a tasty red pepper saffron sauce and shaved fennel. Kris adored her mole, which featured a half chicken smothered in a savory sauce with steamed rice and pickled onion, and our friend Kathy enjoyed the Baja striped bass on a bed of grilled sweet corn, summer squash, Italian peppers, and braised kale. As if we had room for more, we shared a truly decadent chocolate pot de crème made of a passion fruit gel and coconut streusel. (Kathy raved that this was one of the best desserts she had ever eaten.) The Barn Kitchen has an enticing menu of appealing, unique dishes and we all agreed that we would like to stay at the Sparrows Lodge and enjoy this wonderful restaurant again.

Three blonde women hold up their glasses to cheers at The Barn Kitchen's outdoor table

Friends enjoy the beautiful atmosphere of Sparrows Lodge. Photo courtesy of Sue Montgomery

These are just four of the many special restaurants in Palm Springs. Palm Springs is beckoning me to return for a week (or more) so I can stay in charming small hotels and enjoy different wonderful restaurants every day. I would not run out of an abundance of tempting choices.

When I learned that travel writers Susan Montgomery and Kris Grant were invited to Palm Springs, I gently inched my way into tagging along. I had met Susan on my travels, and she called because she wanted me to meet Kris.

Organizations in town invite travel writers to stay and experience various aspects of Palm Springs. In this case, Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels developed an itinerary for Susan and Kris, so they would have personal experiences and could write authentically without resorting to online research or AI to bring their articles alive. Plus, they can include the small nuances that digital research misses.

An introduction to Palm Springs’ culinary scene

Three women sit at a table inside Azucar Restaurant in Palm Springs, California, with the chef standing next to them

Kris Grant, Kathy Condon, and Susan Montgomery meet Chef Seth at Azucar. Photo courtesy of Kathy Condon

I was an interloper, but Jose Pembo graciously welcomed us to Azucar at La Serena Villas, making room for three instead of the planned two. We were seated at a table inside that had an unobstructed view of the pool, which serves as the hotel’s centerpiece.

It was a hot day, so I have to say the iced tea was the perfect choice to quench my thirst and begin getting to know the travel writers. Both had been to Palm Springs before and were eager to be updated on the latest news. For example, the Marilyn statue was being moved a short distance to our new beautiful park.

Jose asked if we wanted to order off the menu or let Chef Seth decide what he wanted to serve us. With smiles, the writers said, “Let him decide.” I am so glad they made that decision, otherwise I would never have thought to try Campo Grande Ibérico — rack of pork with roasted shallots on a bed of mostarda sauce. I will be back and will order that entree.

Pro tip: If you are in the area at night, head to Azucar’s rooftop bar, Sugar High, which offers a beautiful view of Palm Springs and its magnificent mountains.

Settling in

The pool at The Lucille Palm Springs with the San Jacinto Mountains in the background

The Lucille recently underwent a total revamp. Photo courtesy of The Lucille

The writers registered at two assigned hotels, The Lucille and The Muse, and later at one of our events, it was fun listening to them describe their very different inns. Since I had never been to either of them, I learned a great deal listening to their descriptions and noticed how happy they were with the hotel choices.

Dining at Freddie’s Kitchen

A sign reading "Freddy's" outside of the restaurant at The Cole in Palm Springs, California

Welcome to Freddie’s. Photo by Kathy Condon

I had read raving reviews of Freddie’s French-like cuisine. The restaurant is connected to The Cole Hotel, a contemporary property embracing the modernism vibe, and I was pleased to be invited by Kimberli Munkres, who planned the travel writers’ itinerary.

Refreshed from a short rest, the writers came in with notebooks open and ready to learn more about Palm Springs. They were surprised that we have 80 small hotels within the city limits. Small hotels are defined as having 49 rooms or less.

It was fun sharing some of the themes of the hotels, such as contemporary with a modernist feel and serene haven perfect for meditation without televisions or radios.

Chef Freddy kept us captivated with his stories and explanations about the food he prepared for us. We appreciated the French twist on the dishes and now know why this often-overlooked restaurant is gaining momentum with Palm Springs foodies.

A night at Sparrows Lodge

A flame dances in the night in a fire pit at Sparrows Lodge in Palm Springs, California

Fire pits keep you warm and toasty at Sparrows Lodge. Photo courtesy of Kathy Condon

The Sparrows Lodge is an exceptional place, and many residents of Palm Springs are unaware of the beautiful attributes of this property. When driving on South Palm Canyon Drive, look for the white line graphic sign with two sparrows, nothing more.

We settled in for dinner at The Barn Kitchen, where our conversation was lively. The staff seemed to anticipate our every need. It was one of those evenings you didn’t want to end. The weather was perfect, the atmosphere was superb, and I had probably the best dessert ever: passion fruit, chocolate mousse, and coconut crumble.

After dinner, I asked a staff member if the writers could see a room. They graciously said yes, and I smiled as they marveled at the very unusual room décor. For example, a tall stone wall provides a refuge for a bath in a former water trough. I will leave the rest for you to explore when you stay here. Sparrows Lodge recently received the Michelin Key, a new category recognizing hotels.

Alas, it was time to say goodbye to these two delightful women. It was terrific reversing my role, helping others understand our community instead of being the one exploring. Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels provided an excellent, not overstuffed itinerary so they could slowly and thoughtfully absorb the many attributes of our restaurants and hotels here in Palm Springs.