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When I learned that travel writers Susan Montgomery and Kris Grant were invited to Palm Springs, I gently inched my way into tagging along. I had met Susan on my travels, and she called because she wanted me to meet Kris.

Organizations in town invite travel writers to stay and experience various aspects of Palm Springs. In this case, Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels developed an itinerary for Susan and Kris, so they would have personal experiences and could write authentically without resorting to online research or AI to bring their articles alive. Plus, they can include the small nuances that digital research misses.

An introduction to Palm Springs’ culinary scene

Three women sit at a table inside Azucar Restaurant in Palm Springs, California, with the chef standing next to them

Kris Grant, Kathy Condon, and Susan Montgomery meet Chef Seth at Azucar. Photo courtesy of Kathy Condon

I was an interloper, but Jose Pembo graciously welcomed us to Azucar at La Serena Villas, making room for three instead of the planned two. We were seated at a table inside that had an unobstructed view of the pool, which serves as the hotel’s centerpiece.

It was a hot day, so I have to say the iced tea was the perfect choice to quench my thirst and begin getting to know the travel writers. Both had been to Palm Springs before and were eager to be updated on the latest news. For example, the Marilyn statue was being moved a short distance to our new beautiful park.

Jose asked if we wanted to order off the menu or let Chef Seth decide what he wanted to serve us. With smiles, the writers said, “Let him decide.” I am so glad they made that decision, otherwise I would never have thought to try Campo Grande Ibérico — rack of pork with roasted shallots on a bed of mostarda sauce. I will be back and will order that entree.

Pro tip: If you are in the area at night, head to Azucar’s rooftop bar, Sugar High, which offers a beautiful view of Palm Springs and its magnificent mountains.

Settling in

The pool at The Lucille Palm Springs with the San Jacinto Mountains in the background

The Lucille recently underwent a total revamp. Photo courtesy of The Lucille

The writers registered at two assigned hotels, The Lucille and The Muse, and later at one of our events, it was fun listening to them describe their very different inns. Since I had never been to either of them, I learned a great deal listening to their descriptions and noticed how happy they were with the hotel choices.

Dining at Freddie’s Kitchen

A sign reading "Freddy's" outside of the restaurant at The Cole in Palm Springs, California

Welcome to Freddie’s. Photo by Kathy Condon

I had read raving reviews of Freddie’s French-like cuisine. The restaurant is connected to The Cole Hotel, a contemporary property embracing the modernism vibe, and I was pleased to be invited by Kimberli Munkres, who planned the travel writers’ itinerary.

Refreshed from a short rest, the writers came in with notebooks open and ready to learn more about Palm Springs. They were surprised that we have 80 small hotels within the city limits. Small hotels are defined as having 49 rooms or less.

It was fun sharing some of the themes of the hotels, such as contemporary with a modernist feel and serene haven perfect for meditation without televisions or radios.

Chef Freddy kept us captivated with his stories and explanations about the food he prepared for us. We appreciated the French twist on the dishes and now know why this often-overlooked restaurant is gaining momentum with Palm Springs foodies.

A night at Sparrows Lodge

A flame dances in the night in a fire pit at Sparrows Lodge in Palm Springs, California

Fire pits keep you warm and toasty at Sparrows Lodge. Photo courtesy of Kathy Condon

The Sparrows Lodge is an exceptional place, and many residents of Palm Springs are unaware of the beautiful attributes of this property. When driving on South Palm Canyon Drive, look for the white line graphic sign with two sparrows, nothing more.

We settled in for dinner at The Barn Kitchen, where our conversation was lively. The staff seemed to anticipate our every need. It was one of those evenings you didn’t want to end. The weather was perfect, the atmosphere was superb, and I had probably the best dessert ever: passion fruit, chocolate mousse, and coconut crumble.

After dinner, I asked a staff member if the writers could see a room. They graciously said yes, and I smiled as they marveled at the very unusual room décor. For example, a tall stone wall provides a refuge for a bath in a former water trough. I will leave the rest for you to explore when you stay here. Sparrows Lodge recently received the Michelin Key, a new category recognizing hotels.

Alas, it was time to say goodbye to these two delightful women. It was terrific reversing my role, helping others understand our community instead of being the one exploring. Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels provided an excellent, not overstuffed itinerary so they could slowly and thoughtfully absorb the many attributes of our restaurants and hotels here in Palm Springs.

More than any other meal, dining out for supper is special. I mean, a meal under the desert sun is very different from a meal beneath the light of the desert sky.  Dinner could be a celebration, a romantic evening (for two or three — whatever floats your boat), or a get together with friends. No matter which one you’re here for, I’m here for you.

Fine dining in Palm Springs

Empty tables and a fire pit on the outdoor patio at Spencer's in Palm Springs, California

Spencer’s is a special occasion type of place. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

Spencer’s — This is often the go-to for special occasions. The Bougainvillea Room is nice, but so is the inner space. I’d choose this for a classy celebration.

Tropicale — Outside is a party, but the booths inside offer the feel of your own little room. I’d recommend this for a birthday dinner with a small group of friends.

Johnny Costa’s — Very old school Italian, Rat Pack. Johnny was Sinatra’s favorite chef (both now gone). The waiters are pros — no college students here.

Le Vallauris — A fine dining experience, and rife for romance.

Eight4Nine — I’d call this the alternative to Spencer’s, but it’s on the strip. Owner and restaurateur Willie Rhine is well known and beloved by our town. Feel free to love on him too.

The Purple Room — Best dinner club in Palm Springs. Super Rat Pack atmosphere, great jazz-leaning acts, very old school Palm Springs.

A white wall with a gate that reads "So•Pa"

So•Pa is a must-try while staying at L’Horizon Resort and Spa. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

So•Pa — I spent Thanksgiving here, and wowie wow wow. It’s at L’Horizon Resort and Spa and is stunning. If you want someone to fall for you, take them here.

Miro — I love this place. Excellent food, great staff, and lovely ambiance.

Mr. Lyon’s — It’s not what I expected as far as ambiance. It’s kind of “cozy LA” inside. This is another spot for special occasions and DO NOT pass on the rolls.

Melvyn’s — Another old school spot, inside Ingleside Inn which is also an old estate with a great story. You can read all about it in Mel Haber’s books about Palm Springs, which you can purchase here. There’s also terrific music.

Azúcar — Inside La Serenas Villas, this teeters between fine dining and casual dining. The food is modern contemporary cuisine, and the view is to die for.

Johannes — Clean lines, great art on the walls, the schnitzel’s the thing here. Have it just about any way you like, it’s gonna be good. It’s not the only thing, there’s seafood too, and desserts. This is not for groups, but maybe a nice evening between two or three friends. Maybe four, but if you’re loud, like I am, keep it small.

Del Rey — If I were trying to seduce someone, I’d take them here. Located at Villa Royale, it has sexy decor and tapas, which are sexy because there’s just enough for two. It’s somewhere between casual and fine dining, but the energy is swanky.

Casual dining

1501 Gastropub — Great menu, great atmosphere. There’s a nice, big, seatable full bar. Super casual, but don’t take that to mean you don’t need a reservation. It’s a hot ticket.

Las Casuelas Terraza — Take the party here.

Upscale casual dining

Diners sit at tables outside of Lulu California Bistro in Palm Springs, California

Lulu’s is always hopping. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

Lulu — Everyone has to go to Lulu at least once. The atmosphere is great, and the food is terrific too. The owner, Jerry, does great things in the community, so you can thank him by taking the party here. Although they can accommodate just about any size group, they can also give you a quieter space, or you can people watch on the patio.

Gigi’s — Take your chi chi friends here for a fun Palm Springs experience.

John Henry’s — This is off the beaten path, hard to find, and the parking is horrible, but once you find it, it’s charming. Eat outside and take someone you’re sweet on.

Birba — Pizza, but fancy.

Trio — I haven’t been since their facelift and new menu, but it used to be “the spot” for cocktails and dinner. Limited parking in the back, but there’s parking.

Maracas — I mentioned it for lunch, but it’s also great for dinner with friends.

Pomme Frite — Chef wants you to know it’s a French/Belgian bistro. It’s adorable. Go here to catch up with a friend and stay for a bit.

For foodies

French Miso — Tucked back, it’s actually part of La Plaza but, like I said, it’s tucked so it’s kind of hidden (although they now have big old signs). It’s quite lovely.

Freddie’s Kitchen — On the northern end, inside The Cole hotel, is this little French gem. I haven’t tried it yet, but it’s on my list.

Sandfish — It’s sushi. A lot of people love it. I went when it first opened, and I was short of impressed. But that was a few years back — try it out and let me know.

Farm — Farm curates a menu for dinner that is very different from its breakfast and lunch. There’s an amuse bouche to start, and then some choices, prices are fixed. It’s quite a lovely space too. Closed Wednesday and Thursday for dinner.

Michelin Guide

Blue leather chairs lined up in front of the bar at Bar Cecil in Palm Springs, California

If you can, try to score a seat at Bar Cecil. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

Bar Cecil The darling of the jet set.

Tac/Quila Jalisco, which means it’s seafood forward. Same owners as Farm. Same great attention to detail in decor and food choices.

Workshop Kitchen & Bar — It’s very L.A.

Boozehounds — Chef Aric Ianni has worked for Kimpton, but his sensibilities run more to beer pairings with fine food.

The Barn Kitchen — At Sparrows Lodge. Good food, great atmosphere.

Colony Club

4 Saints

A little something about dress. You can pretty much dress any way that you like, although resort casual seems to be the go-to these days. There has been a recent trend that I am crazy about, and that’s fashion forward streetwear. Even more specific are those that embrace the mid-mod aesthetic of yore. It’s fun, and it’s flirty. And it makes Palm Springs feel like the technicolor part of Pleasantville. It’s a gas, man. A real gas.