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The late 1940s and ’50s was the start of modernism in Palm Springs, but it wasn’t until 2006 that Modernism Week first cast its spell on the world. Since then, the number of people attending has risen each year, with 2023 bringing in over 100,000 visitors, creating a revenue stream of $55 million.

They have over 350 things to do, and this post will help you navigate the event, but I’m gonna tell you about some of our preferred small hotels that are on the Modernism Week bus tour. You can make the event an exceptionally authentic one by also booking one of these boutique hotels. And this year, one of them is actually featured as a Modernism Week event. 

A Palm Springs classic: Casa Cody

Casa Cody, the city’s oldest operating hotel, isn’t from the modernism era — it was built in the late 1910s — but the property has been well maintained and has a fantastic history. Harold and Harriet Cody left Hollywood and came to Palm Springs (by wagon) in 1916, as Harold’s frequent tribulations with pneumonia were worsening and the dry desert air was considered a health benefit for anyone with lung ailments. Harold was a Los Angeles architect, and purportedly the cousin of the legendary Buffalo Bill Cody. 

Initially, Casa Cody was just their home, but in 1920 Harriet hung up a hotelier’s shingle, and the rest is Palm Springs history. Some of their more famous guests included Charlie Chaplin, American opera singer Lawrence Tibbett, and AnaÏs Nin. Harriet is said to be a direct descendant of Sir Thomas Moore and from one of the wealthiest families in Philadelphia.

Today, Casa Cody has 31 guest rooms and private rooms, two swimming pools, a jacuzzi, a spa treatment room, and a marketplace, and you can see it all on Feb. 19, 2024, during the hotel’s special Modernism Week event. You’ll get to go on a behind-the-scenes tour and hang out poolside, with cocktails and brunch items available. All of this can be yours for the low, low price of $50.

Even when it’s not Modernism Week, Casa Cody has movies by the pool and art events available to guests. This party is a great opportunity to roam the grounds and check out all of that history!

That’s not all…

The other boutique hotels you’ll see on the Modernism Week bus tour are:

Korakia Pensione — Originally called Dar Marroc and styled after Tangier, Morocco, Korakia was built in 1924. It’s the former hideaway of Scottish painter Gordon Coutts, and the rumor is that Winston Churchill painted (not the walls, canvases) in the Artist’s Studio. Forbes Traveler named it one of their sexiest hotels in America.  

Ingleside Inn — Home of the popular Melvyn’s Restaurant and Lounge, this estate began as a private home built in 1924 for Ethel Richards Birge and sold to Ruth Hardy in 1935 (you may have heard of her park, located on Caballeros). Even if you don’t stay here, go for a cocktail at Melvyn’s to check it out. Très cool. 

The Orbit In's retro pool surrounded by loungers and vintage umbrellas

The Orbit In is a spectacular mid-century modern classic. Photo courtesy of Orbit In

Orbit In — Designed in 1948 by Herbert W. Burns, a builder and innkeeper behind a number of small inns and private homes in Palm Springs during the 1940s and ’50s. His Town and Desert Apartments live on as The Hideaway, one of the Orbit In’s two boutique hotels. From Orbit you can see Swiss architect Albert Frey’s masterpiece builds (Frey I & II) in the mountains above you. Burns designed many of the buildings on Baristo, just west of Belardo.

Movie Colony Hotel — This property was designed by Frey, who left his mark all over Palm Springs. Built in 1935, its original name was the San Jacinto Hotel, a three-unit townhouse. Currently, the Bauhaus-inspired property is a 17-room boutique hotel (they expanded, they did not cut up three townhouses to make 17 rooms). If you can, book Unit 29 — it is considered the least changed from Frey’s original design.

A pink flamingo float in the pool at Skylark Hotel Palm Springs with the mountains in the background

The views are fantastic from the Skylark Hotel pool. Photo courtesy of Skylark Hotel

Skylark Hotel — Recently updated, the mid-century modern property was built in 1955 and was the backdrop for the movie Palm Swings. 

Willows — Located a stone’s throw south of the Art Museum, Albert Einstein used to stay here when he’d visit Palm Springs (and would “take the sun” in the buff). This is one of the 10 oldest structures in Palm Springs, and its eight guest rooms each have modern amenities while retaining their historic charm. You are right on the mountain, so you know you’re going to have a spectacular view.

Amin Casa — Formerly the home of Gloria Swanson, this beautiful estate dates back to the 1920s and accommodates 14 guests, adults only. For a unique experience, you can book Swanson’s original residence, a swanky two bedroom, two bath cottage with a grand living space.

That’s all we’ve got time for today, Modernettes. Hope to see you on the streets during Modernism Week!  

Having lived in Palm Springs for 13 years, I must admit to passing by The Skylark on North Palm Canyon Drive without noticing it. But now, after attending the official reopening of the boutique property, it is a place I will go to often. Let me share what I discovered about this Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotel.

A revitalized space

An Airstream trailer at Skylark Hotel Palm Springs used as a registration desk

The one-of-a-kind registration desk at The Skylark. Photo by Kathy Condon

Walking into the courtyard of the The Skylark, I marveled at the giant trees dotting the space with benches and, to my delight, fire pits, which I feel bring a cozy, welcoming feel to any space. On the other side of the courtyard, the unusually large pool would have been the perfect place to take a nighttime dip, but I was wearing casual business attire, so it was not to be this evening.

Since I was expecting the registration area to be right in as you come off the street, I was surprised to instead find a restaurant, Lost Property Palm Springs. Seeing people walk down a path nearby, I also wandered down it and discovered, much to my surprise, an Airstream trailer surrounded by lovely patio furniture and bicycles under a fun mid-century mural painted on the cinder block wall. I went to the window, expecting it to be a bar, but found the reception desk.

I asked owner Amitesh Damur why an Airstream trailer was used for a registration area. He smiled broadly and responded, “Well, there is a story. When we decided to make room for the restaurant Lost Property, it made the most sense to have the restaurant on North Palm Canyon, both for its recognizable address and accessibility for locals that we hope will frequent it. We had space near our parking lot, and I thought, ‘Why not find an Airstream trailer to add a unique touch?'” It wasn’t easy to track one down, he added, but once secured, “the creative juices flowed, and it now has a permanent resting spot.” It makes people smile as they enter the gate, and the patio furniture surrounding it is a perfect place to relax any time of day.

Room for everyone

A king-sized bed inside a bedroom at Skylark Hotel in Palm Springs

Comfortable beds are the centerpieces of rooms at The Skylark. Photo by Kathy Condon

Rooms surround the courtyard and pool, providing easy access to amenities like The Skylark Bar. This is a lovely, spacious area with tables and a long bar offering any libation you desire. On reopening night, a DJ spun upbeat music. During your stay, a phonograph with vinyl records helps you get into the mid-century spirit. It’s a great place for gathering with friends and family, or, if you are here for a corporate retreat, an excellent training space with a large screen suitable for any presentation.

The Skylark has 28 rooms, with the upper level boasting upgraded deluxe accommodations with lovely remodeled bathrooms, luxury bath products, refrigerators, and comfortable chairs. Leaning on the railing and observing the moonlit courtyard and pool from the patio right outside your second-floor room is a delight. While the second floor requires walking up steps (there is no elevator), the scene below is worth the extra effort.

FYI: You must leave Fido home with the grandparents. Animals are not allowed in the hotel.

Must-try eats

A lobster roll and container of French fries with gravy on a gray plate

Delicious lobster rolls are on the menu at Lost Property Palm Springs. Photo by Kathy Condon

Yes, having a coffee pot in your room is helpful, but what if you want something with a little more kick or a specialty coffee drink? No problem. All you have to do is wander down to the restaurant, Lost Property Palm Springs, and you can order exactly what you want. Or, if you are more adventurous, let the staff serve you one of their specialty drinks. It opens at 7 a.m., and seating is available inside and outside. More than likely, operation partner Rhino Williams will greet you as you walk in. The glass case displays a variety of specialty pastries — just so you know, it is fairly challenging to find a good pastry in Palm Springs, but theirs are superb.

After having lunch at Lost Property and sampling their food, I can only say, “Oh my.” Everything I tasted was superb. The big news is that Maine lobster rolls will always be on their menu. Residents lined up when the Lobster Truck rolled into town, but now you don’t have to — these are equally as good, piled high with fresh lobster flown in regularly.

There is also other good news: if you are out on a day trip and come back to Palm Springs late, it is one of the few restaurants open until 11 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. Be sure to try one of their specialty craft cocktails. While animals cannot stay at the hotel, they are allowed on the restaurant’s outside patio.

One last thing: when you drive down North Palm Canyon Drive, you can’t miss The Skylark. The whole entrance has a beautiful wall with our famous breeze blocks. With its on-site restaurant, this hotel is one of the crowning gems in Palm Springs’ wonderful collections of boutique hotels. I’ll meet you there — yes, as a local, I will be going to Lost Property frequently.