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Tickets are on sale for Modernism Week October, the mini version of arguably the biggest event in Palm Springs (the other contender being Pride). It’s a mere two months away, and tickets for the mack daddy in February will be on sale soon. If the ring-a-ding-ding of the 1950s and 1960s is your Roman Empire, this event is for you. 

The best thing you can do for the most authentic stay is book one of our mid-century modern hotels. Some are remodeled and meticulously redressed in the fashion of the day, some are the homes of former movie stars, and some have been operating since Palm Springs was a wee village with a dream. 

Every year the event outdoes the last, not only in attendance but in unique opportunities to tour vintage homes, take bus tours on a double decker, enjoy themed, live entertainment, and attend talks by experts in the mid-mod world of architecture. You can also see some rare home movies presented by Deserted Films.  

It’s a pick your own adventure on the daily, but home base requires the most thought. It should not only set the mood but provide all the amenities you need for a stellar experience. 

These hotels are all downtown or within walking distance to base camp, but far enough away from the happening crowd because … personal space. All are exquisite, and great options for the perfect vacation to relive the past. Also, make sure to check to see if your hotel has loyalty rewards. If this is your first visit to Palm Springs, you likely don’t know it yet, but you’ll be back, and those rewards will come in handy.

Let’s go!

Palm Springs boutique hotels for Modernism Week

The Orbit In's pool is surrounded by plants and lights after dark

The Orbit In at dusk. Photo credit: Visit Palm Springs

Orbit In — This hotel is the definition of mid-mod squee. Even the manager dresses in 1950s/1960s style. It feels so authentic (because it is, it’s on the Modernism bus tour) that you can imagine a record player spinning, and girls in beehives and miniskirts dancing with guys in suits with skinny ties, mopheads, and sunglasses. It’s located in the Historic Tennis Club Neighborhood, and everything downtown is walkable from there.

The stone front of Del Marcos Hotel with orange doors

Welcome to The Del Marcos Hotel. Photo courtesy of The Del Marcos Hotel

Del Marcos — On the way to Historic Tennis Club (that’s west of downtown, toward the mountains), this boutique gem is also on the Modernism bus tour. William Cody’s architecture immediately grabs you with its distinct look: tall glass windows that peek into the pool area. Well-appointed rooms, and a great pool.

Mid-century modern furnishings inside the King Suite at Desert Hills Resort Hotel in Palm Springs, California

Mid-century modern furnishings inside the King Suite at Desert Hills Resort. Photo courtesy of Desert Hills Resort

Desert Hills Resort — The tennis district is taking the third gold with another hotel on Arenas. All the rooms at Desert Hills Resort either look out on the pool or the fountain, and they also have kitchenettes available. It’s about four blocks from Palm Canyon (the main strip).

A pool with loungers and palm trees in the background

The Three Fifty Hotel was designed by Herbert W. Burns. Photo courtesy of The Three Fifty Hotel

The Three Fifty Hotel — Herbert Burns was a self-taught architect who built a great deal of the properties along the west end of Arenas. This hotel is located a little closer to downtown, across from La Serena Villas on Belardo. A 10-room property that is pet friendly, if you’re driving in with a group and your pups, you can buy out the hotel. Super cute.

Blue umbrellas and palms surround the large pool at Holiday House in Palm Springs, California

The Herbert Burns-designed Holiday House opened in 1951. Photo courtesy of Holiday House

Holiday House — Also on Belardo, this boutique hotel not only has the mid-mod look you’re going for, but they also have Chef Jon Butler, who has worked at top spots including Noma in Copenhagen, République in L.A, and is now the mastermind behind Holiday House and their sister property, Sparrows Lodge.

That’s the rundown for a fully authentic Modernism Week. Of course there are other hotels in our arsenal — Palm Springs has over 70 small boutique hotels — but these are for those who want to be close to camp, and the bus tours. I can’t stress enough: BOOK NOW. Tickets are like a keg at a frat party, tap it and it’s gone 15 minutes later. 

Don’t forget to pack all of your mid-mod clothing – everyone else will be dressed accordingly.

As Frank Sinatra crooned so long ago, “When the steeple bell says, ‘good night, sleep well,’ we’ll thank the small hotel together.”

Not only does Palm Springs beckon one to come to visit for its countless sunshine days, but there is also a new reason to plan your vacation to this increasingly hip town. At least once a week, contemporary public art is being unveiled.

Palm Springs is quiet and has crispness in the air as one ventures out to get a cup of coffee on Palm Canyon at our downtown Starbucks. Clamoring for your attention is the PS I Love Letters, with its brilliant red color glistens in the filtered sunlight through the palm trees. It’s the perfect place to take an Instagramable photo.

Nona Watson, CEO of Palm Springs Chamber of Commerce, conceived the artwork. She enlisted the design talents of Maru Palmersheim, and Palm Spring Canyon Print and Grit Development provided the space.

(This particular morning, a family of three was standing near the sign. The little girl was having fun frolicking around the sign, so we thought she would be the perfect model. The mother later sent us an email requesting a copy of the photo. She is pianist Jeewon Park.)

Unity, a mural with Inaugural Poet Amanda Gorman’s portrait, graces one of the “art pit” walls at the corner of Belardo Road and Museum Way.  This temporary art installation will be there through December 2021.

MisterAlex, a Los Angeles-based artist, depicted Amanda surrounded by butterflies. “During my research of Amanda, I discovered she overcame a speech impediment. In addition, during her young life, she dedicated her many hours of hard work to bring people together; thus, I chose Unity for the theme.”

The Fault Line Meditation

Curator and artist, Jevpic considers himself a fortunate man. During the pandemic, he received his largest commission ever. While digging in the “art pit” to create this art installation, many local people supported him. They picked up shovels and helped him develop his vision, which looks entirely different during the day than it does at night.

In Jevpic words, “The path in the shape of the San Andres Fault is a metaphor for the faults we encounter in our life. Faults have existed before us and will be after us. Just learn, grow and move on.”

Guadalajara Artist Gonzalo Lebrija‘s temporary creation, History of Suspended, is directly in front of the Palm Springs Art Museum. The Palm Springs Art Commission worked with the museum to prepare the space and erect the art installation referred to as “A Moment for the Impossible.”

Lebrija wants to encourage thought “suspension of the passage of time – focusing on the precise moment of stillness and impact. This installation encourages one to walk around and even visit at different times of the day. The reflection in the pool also calls one to reflect on the time and space around them.

MIDABI, a Palm Springs artist who has his art in front of the Desert Center Art Center, now came up with another relevant sign. WOW on Indian Canyon Drive, near Andreas, cannot help but make you smile.  When is the last time you saw art that says, “Wow?”

His metal, esoteric sculptures are created using his thought process:  a. Always be a student b. Have a heart of a child and c. Remember you are a human being first and foremost before any other identity.

Popsicles is a temporary art installation near Townie Bagels on Sunny Dunes by Salina, California artist John Cerney. John is known as the “cutout artist” for his larger-than-life creations along California and Midwest highways. This a great place to capture selfies for your social media.

John started as a portrait artist, then began drawing. He noticed barren walls and old barns with expansive walls and convinced owners murals would enhance their spaces. The next step was designing a way for more people to see his figures. At first, he made the life size, but they realized they were not big enough for people to see as they whizzed by on the highways. Thus, these plywood cutouts are now bigger than life.

Besides a vibrate art scene, retail shops are thriving, and new restaurants are popping up everywhere. If you haven’t been to Palm Springs, you are sure to see lots of changes, including constructing the 1.5 acres of new City Park being built steps away from the Palm Springs Art Museum.

So find your stay, maybe even take advantage of a summer special and make your reservation today.

The Palm Springs Cultural Center, less than two miles from Downtown Palm Springs, serves as a hub for many of our cultural experiences. It also is a great place to mingle with locals and learn more about our city.

50 years in Palm Springs

A black and white photo shows the Camelot Theater in Palm Springs as it looked when it opened in the late 1960s

The Camelot Theatre in its early days. Photo courtesy of the Palm Springs Cultural Center

The center originally opened in February 1967 as the Camelot Theatre, with a 625-seat auditorium, and in 1971, Camelot II was built next door. The theatre was in the Palm Springs Mall, and due to harsh economic conditions, it closed in January 1992. Palm Springs Mall management saved it from the wrecking ball, though it remained an empty space for eight years.

In 1999, it was purchased by Ric and Rozene Supple, who renovated the theatre and added state-of-the-art equipment. They eventually donated the building, and it was renamed the Palm Springs Cultural Center in 2018.

Today’s Palm Springs Cultural Center

Fresh onions and greens grown at local farms for sale at the Certified Farmers Market at the Palm Springs Cultural Center

Fresh produce can be found every Saturday at the Palm Springs Cultural Center’s Certified Farmers Market. Photo by Kathy Condon

Under the guidance of Executive Director Michael Green, who is also co-owner of The Triangle Inn, the Palm Springs Cultural Center hosts screenings and events throughout the year. Every January, many films from the International Film Festival are shown here, and in March, AmDocs takes over all three theatres and welcomes directors and producers from all over the world.

When no special events are taking place, current and vintage movies are shown in the 125-seat or 625-seat auditoriums. By the way, they have great popcorn with real butter.

On the grounds surrounding the Palm Springs Cultural Center, a Certified Farmers Market is held on Saturdays, offering everything from flowers to fresh produce from outlying farms. It is a time when locals flock here to buy homemade bread, listen to music, and gather their produce for the week’s meals.

Follow the winding staircase

A staircase leads upstairs to the VIP Lounge at the Palm Springs Cultural Center

Take this staircase up to the VIP Lounge and a guaranteed good time. Photo by Kathy Condon

Walking into the center to the right of the door, you will notice a staircase. This winds its way to the second floor, where you will enter a space filled with tables, an outdoor patio, and a bar waiting to serve you your favorite cocktail.

Recently, I attended a live performance by Gregory Douglass here in the VIP Lounge. About 50 of us mingled, ordered cocktails, and settled in to listen to Gregory — a fellow blogger for Boutiquely Palm Springs — perform some of his original songs. Gregory is a transplant via Vermont, where he wrote his songs and produced and released 10 albums.

With his keyboard and guitars strategically placed at one end of the lounge, Gregory warmly welcomed us with his broad smile and immediately revealed his sense of humor. The intimate setting made us feel like we were visiting a secret salon.

We were honored to hear two newly written songs, which will be on his 11th album and had never before been performed in front of an audience. In between, he shared anecdotes about his life and thoughts when creating his music. There was much laughter; Gregory displayed genuine awareness of the audience throughout the evening and did not shy away from sharing the bloopers in this life and performance.

A man in a striped shirt and a woman in a green dress pose in front of a keyboard at the Palm Springs Cultural Center

Kathy Condon and Gregory Douglass pose after Gregory’s VIP Lounge performance. Photo courtesy of Kathy Condon

I asked Gregory about performing in the VIP Lounge, and he revealed that it “fills my heart to have friends and local music lovers take a chance on an evening of (mostly) original music. I think it is such a powerful exchange with the audience to perform my emotionally-centered songs in an intimate setting like the Palm Springs Cultural Center VIP Lounge.”

The VIP Lounge is often a pre-show cocktail location for special events and shows. However, as Gregory notes, it is also a great place to learn about and discover artists living in the area. As a side benefit, it is small enough to allow one to mingle with locals and talk to the artists before and after their performances.

The Palm Springs Cultural Center’s breadth of events continues to introduce people to new talent, vintage films, and creative endeavors of individuals who are either starting or reviving their careers. Before you visit Palm Springs, check out the center’s website and sign up for its newsletter so you can find out what’s happening while you’re in town.

Looking for the perfect way to romance your partner on Valentine’s Day? You’ve come to the right place. I don’t have one, so I can spend all of my time figuring out the swoon factor for you. And I think I’ve got it. How about a Palm Springs spa vacation at one of our small resorts? I know, it’s perfect, right? What’s better than enjoying a night or a weekend in the lap of luxury in the place locals call paradise (because it is).

That gives us five options, and two of them have a fancy restaurant on site. So here’s a link for that. But don’t go anywhere just yet, I’m going to tell you a little bit about them, as well as give you some dinner options in case you’d like to leave the property for a few hours.

Hotels and resorts

La Serena Villas — Just behind the heart of downtown, where you can enjoy a romantic stay and still be close to the action. Whispers for spa services, and Azucar for romantic meals, as well as a rooftop bar.

A massage at Whisper’s is the perfect Valentine’s Day gift. Photo courtesy of La Serena Villas

Andreas Hotel & Spa  — In addition to the spa, Andreas is located downtown, and has a patio bar for poolside drinks.

Korakia Pensione — Super eclectic and truly unique to Palm Springs. It might fall under the boho chic category, with that pensione vibe, yoga, hot breakfasts, and tea service. Massage treatments can be booked in the indoor/outdoor spa lodge or in guest rooms.

The Monkey Tree — Recently restored, this mid-century modern hotel is on the north end of Palm Springs away from all the noise. A truly relaxing space, and while they don’t actually have a spa (a.k.a. massage services), they do have a heated saltwater pool and a Scandinavian spa, which includes a newly built sauna, hot tub, and cold plunge.

L’Horizon Palm Springs — The wow factor here is off the charts. The spa has massages, facials, and body treatments, aromatherapy, and a fresh juice bar. I’ll let them tell you about their restaurant: “Dramatic, refined, and intimate, SO•PA offers a unique alfresco dining experience. Join us for dinner in an intimate setting.” Finished with fire pits and fountains, this Steve Hermann-designed space is the desert’s most distinctive restaurant.

The grounds at L’Horizon. Photo credit: Visit Palm Springs

Restaurants

As I mentioned in the events blog, we now have Michelin Guide restaurants in Palm Springs. Bar Cecil, Boozehounds, Workshop Kitchen and Bar, Cheeky’s, 4 Saints, The Barn at Sparrows Lodge, Colony Club, and Tac/Quila. Super proud to say that two of those options can be found at our boutique spas and hotels: Cheeky’s (breakfast and lunch) is with Alcazar Palm Springs, The Barn is at, as the name states, Sparrows Lodge.

The Barn at Sparrows Lodge. Photo courtesy of Sparrows Lodge

Here are some other dinner options:

Le Vallauris — Recently remodeled and is now part of the Soho House Group. The patio is the place to be for romance.

Farm — Styled in French farmhouse decor, it’s like ducking into the countryside. The food is French, the service is not. Great choice for dinner or brunch.

Tac/Quila — Owned by the folks that brought us Farm, Tac/Quila is Jalisco-style elevated Mexican fare. If you’ve never had fried avocado, you haven’t lived. Sounds awful, but it’s SO good. It’s in a tempura batter. Yum. The decor is pretty special too.

John Henry — Locals like to keep this place to themselves, and that’s been fairly easy as it isn’t that easy to find. Located on Tahquitz, just past Sunrise, blink and you’ll miss it. Parking is weird, but so are you. Book the patio, you won’t regret it.

An experience:

Lesbian Foray, a pop-up event on Feb. 18. 188 S. Indian Canyon.

The Purple Room — A three-course dinner while being serenaded by the song stylings of Rose Mallett.

Oscar’s — Jack Donahue and dinner. About Jack: he is an award-winning singer, songwriter, and actor who has performed in many of the great jazz and cabaret venues across the country and recorded four critically-acclaimed CDs. Jack was also twice selected by the Manhattan Association of Cabarets and Clubs as Best Male Jazz Vocalist.

Palm Springs Cultural Center — Enjoy Bruce Vilanch interviewing Lesley Ann Warren, one of the stars of Victor/Victoria, with a tribute performance by “le Jazz Hot” Ethylina Canne, then stick around for a special screening of the film on the big screen.

Melvyn’s — Located in the iconic Ingleside Inn, enjoy dinner and live music from the Casablanca Lounge.

The elegant dining room at Melvyn’s. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

Chocolates and flowers

Brandini Toffee — Located right in the heart of downtown next to The Plaza Theater. I’ve linked to their terrific story, and I promise you it’s the best toffee you’ll ever taste. Hands down.

My Little Flower Shop — They say it’s the best in town.

If you don’t have a sweetheart, and you’re a little bitter about the whole romance thing, then PS Underground is the place you want to be for Stupid Cupid. It’s raunchy, it’s good dirty fun, and you can soothe yourself with booze and great food. PS Underground is always a good choice.

As Porky Pig so elegantly proclaimed many many years ago…“Aba-de-ba-da-di-ba-da – that’s all folks!”

The spirit of optimism is alive and well in Palm Springs. 

“While the sunshine, heated pools, and stellar attractions make the city a destination for people looking for relaxation and adventure alike, the pandemic has changed Palm Springs’ visitor profile considerably,” Michael Green, chair of the Desert Gay Tourism Guild and Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels, said. “Visitors from Europe are not coming as frequently as in previous years, and Canadians, who typically help boost the Coachella Valley’s economy, didn’t start returning until November.”

That said, the number of visitors overall exceed those of pre-covid days, and since June 2020, the vast majority of travelers have been domestic. Let’s dive into the reasons why.

Beautiful flowers in bloom. Photo credit: Kathy Condon

Feeling Safe on the Road

With the pandemic ongoing, many people feel safer planning a road trip with their family instead of getting on an airplane or cruise ship. San Diego, Los Angeles, Las Vegas and Phoenix are no more than a 3.5-hour road trip away from Palm Springs, and even people from the San Francisco Bay Area can drive here within a day. For those in the northwest, they can turn Palm Springs into a road trip destination, making leisurely stops to see sights along the way. Road trippers not only pack their comfort items, but pets are welcome in Palm Springs, so Fifi and Brutus can come along for the ride, too.

Art at the Palm Springs International Airport. Photo credit: Kathy Condon

Direct Flights to Palm Springs

For travelers who do choose to fly, the Palm Springs International Airport is easy to navigate, just five minutes from downtown Palm Springs, and welcomes direct flights from many U.S. cities. Major airlines are always adding direct routes to Palm Springs, and new carriers are building the city into their business plans. According to Daniel Meier, Palm Springs International Airport’s deputy director of aviation, marketing, and air service, arrivals are up nearly 25 percent at the airport. 

Professional Mobility

When people first couldn’t go into the office to work, they came up with innovative ways to get their jobs done. Zoom allowed them to connect with colleagues and customers from anywhere with WiFi, and Palm Springs became a choice workcation destination. “With the ability to work remotely, we noticed a trend that people were taking advantage of the opportunity to stay longer,” Joyce Kiehl, director of communications for Visit Greater Palm Springs, said.

A Change of Residence

Palm Springs was one of the epicenters of the 2021 summer real estate boom, as harsh northeastern winters and being stuck inside brought to mind visions of sitting under a palm tree near the pool, conducting business meetings on Zoom. Robert Hunt, manager of Alcazar Palm Springs, said he has noticed that “many of our guests are staying here while looking for property.” Bob Deck, an agent with Town Real Estate, has found that people interested in buying homes in Palm Springs are “tired of the traffic in the bigger cities. They are looking for ways to take their commute time and turn it into family time.” 

A couple explores Palm Springs by bike. Photo credit: Visit Palm Springs

What Does the Data Show?

Things are looking up in Palm Springs, with hoteliers and retailers seeing a 23 to 25 percent increase in business in November, compared to the same month a year earlier. Jeff Witthuhn, owner of downtown gift shop Peepa’s, said he’s seeing “many more customers are coming from the East Coast,” while Kim Galland, owner of the women’s accessory store Kimbals, attributes her growth to previous customers who are delighted to be out in the world shopping.

In October, the city reported that transit occupancy tax collection increased almost 45 percent over 2020. Randy Garner, marketing manager for the Palm Springs Board of Tourism, noted that most events and conferences were canceled in the fall and winter of 2020, and the recent success of the 2021 Palm Springs Festival of Lights Parade illustrates people are ready to get out there and enjoy the many aspects of our welcoming community, including new public art and restaurants.

Inside Gigi’s Restaurant. Photo credit: Kathy Condon

Thriving is a word that best describes Palm Springs. Remodeling of stores, the upgrading and restoration of our hotels, and additional direct flights are making our ever-changing desert community a destination that encourages visitors to come back again and again. What are you waiting for? Make a reservation through Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels to see this fabulous city for yourself.

From the beginning, the land the Cahuilla called Se-Khi (“boiling water”), the place Spanish explorers dubbed the ridiculously wordy La Palma de la Mano de Dios (“the palm of God’s hand”), and the city now (succinctly) known as Palm Springs, should probably have been named what it is: Paradise.

In the early 1900s, Palm Springs was the spot to cure lung ailments, and evolved into a place where scads of tennis-happy movie stars and U.S. presidents with a penchant for golf and impeccable hospitality came to live their best lives away from the cameras. 

More recently it’s evolved into a foodie paradise with 18-carat jazz, award winning cabaret, and fantastic theatre. (I know, Americans spell it “theater,” but generally stage companies use the British spelling because … drama.) All the musicians and actors tired of the rat race live and thrive in 350 days of sunshine per year, with a gorgeous mountain backdrop (including the second highest peak in California) and a million stars dazzling the night sky. So, if you’re a bit earthy/crunchy, and crave a relationship with the Earth, Palm Springs is your mecca. 

We can’t float your boat (our water’s mostly underground), but we can sizzle your bacon (in the summer, with just the sun) in our soul-satisfying, untouched wilderness.

Hiking in Palm Springs

Palm trees and rocks against a blue sky in Indian Canyons in Palm Springs, California

A hike in Indian Canyons is always a good idea. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

Indian Canyons — Located at the end of South Palm Canyon, this is the ancestral home of the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians. Out here, with the exception of the Trading Post at the “end” (and a few hiker amenities), it’s just you and nature. One blog purports that you may “run into some old rock art, house-pits, irrigation ditches, dams, trails or food preparation areas while hiking in the canyons,” and now I have to go back and find them all, damnit.

There are three canyons to hike here (weirdly I thought there were more) and just like the rooms in your house, they’re all a bit different.

Murray Canyon This is the only trail I have personally hiked in Indian Canyons. It’s a lot of flat land with nothing going on until you hit the copse of palm trees in the distance, and then I think a chorus of angels sang as we stepped beneath the trees and into another world. Suddenly it was all flora and wildlife, and I swear someone turned on an air conditioner. We crossed a couple of streams, one a bit bigger than expected, and we both chose a different path across. I was on the other side when I heard my friend shriek “RATTLER!” I did not see it (just the snake sunbathing at the entrance where we parked. I don’t know if he’s there every day, though. You know how snakes are.) We never made it to the small waterfall at the end. Someone, who was incredibly out of shape, got tired. Might have been me. 

Andreas Canyon — At 1.2 miles, it is the shortest of the three hikes, and I wish I’d known that. From their website: “A scenic foot trail leads through the canyon passing groves of stately skirted palms, unusual rock formations, and the perennial Andreas Creek. One can still see bedrock mortars and metates used centuries ago for preparing food. This tranquil setting is excellent for photography, bird-watching, or a picnic at one of the tables along the trail.”

Palm Canyon — At 15 miles, it’s the Mack Daddy of the trio. At the top is that Trading Post I mentioned earlier and just beyond the lip is one of the most breathtaking views you’ll see in your lifetime. In fact, here’s this tidbit from their website: “Palm Canyon is one of the areas of great beauty in Western North America. A moderately graded foot path winds down into the canyon for picnicking near the stream, meditation, exploring, hiking, or horseback riding.”

While it falls under the Indian Canyons banner, the Tahquitz Trail is just west of downtown, and was the stand-in for Shangri-La in the 1937 film Lost Horizon. It’s that stunning. This is not a difficult hike (I did it with ease), and you are rewarded at the end with a beautiful waterfall gushing into a pool of water. And yes, you can hop on in.

All of the above: $12 for adults, $7 for seniors and students, $6 for children. Military get in for free (thank you for your service!). Equestrian fees are $11 (where riding is allowed).

Horseback riding around town

Two people ride horses through the Palm Springs desert landscape

Just horsin’ around in Palm Springs. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

For centuries, this was the only way to get around in Palm Springs — everybody was on a horse. Palm Springs is a great place to experience what it was like in the Old West, and Smoketree Stables will get you as close to that feeling without the hardship. I love horseback riding, but throughout the years haven’t been particularly successful at it. I had one horse that decided I needed to experience a run at full gallop my first time riding. Yet, I persisted. Several horses have tried to knock me off with low hanging branches, and one time the saddle was improperly buckled, and the saddle and I ended up perpendicular to the horse’s belly. Cats and dogs, on the other hand, love me as long as I don’t try to ride them. 

This link has everything you need to know for a much better experience than the ones I’ve had. They’ll hook you up so you can ride through Murray Canyon on a personal or group ride.

The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway

The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway gondola moving up Mt. San Jacinto

Temperatures are much cooler at the top of the tramway. Courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

Most of us go for the gondola ride to the top, and have a nice lunch then gaze at the city below before we get in line for the ride back down. However, if you are an action figure, Mt. San Jacinto State Park is the place for you. Luckily, you are already in it. From their website: “Mt. San Jacinto State Park offers over 50 miles of hiking trails located within a 14,000-acre pristine wilderness, one of the last in California. All trails are accessed by exiting the Mountain Station and descending a concrete pathway to Long Valley. There you will find picnic tables, the ranger station, flush toilets, and several easy trails.”

This is the link that will lead you to the trails and a map. And the outdoor fun is not just limited to hiking. During the winter you can snowshoe and cross-country ski, and if you’re a crazy person you can camp. This stuff requires a wilderness permit, but it’s free.

For those who are certifiably insane, you can hike the tram station to Idyllwild. That link is to a great little website that tells you everything you need to know about any particular trail, plus hiker experiences, current temps, and difficulty. Tram to Idyllwild is a tough hike that is 9.6 miles and takes roughly six hours point to point. 

Stargazing in the desert

Palm Springs is shy on street lamps, which keeps the light pollution at bay. Many of our preferred hotels are tucked away in even less lit neighborhoods so you can hang by the pool in a chaise lounge and oooh and ahhh with a cocktail in your hand. But for those who are looking to get up close and personal with the cosmos, book with Sky Watcher. A knowledgable guide with telescopes and special glasses (not filled with alcohol) will take you on a tour of our planetary neighbors. 

Where to stay

Villa Royale Hotel exterior sign with a hedge and palm trees behind it

Welcome to the Villa Royale. Photo courtesy of Villa Royale

Any of our Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels will be a great experience, but for this particular type of outing, I have a few specific suggestions.

For that “by the pool under the night sky with a cocktail” experience, Villa Royale is a good choice. On the southeast end of Palm Springs, it’s far enough away from Palm Canyon that the few street lamps we do have won’t hinder your experience. 

For a completely earthy-crunchy immersion, try the exotic Korakia. Dressed up as a pensione somewhere in the Middle East, they’ve got yogurt and yoga and they’re very big on tea.

Deeper pockets will take you to The Willows Historic Palm Springs Inn. It sits higher up than most of the other inns (stargazing at a premium) and has a wonderful garden where Albert Einstein himself used to sunbathe nude. If you see dead people, that would be a great sighting. 

Here’s a link for you to sort it out yourself because I have to go. I’m craving granola.

For the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians, the opening of the Agua Caliente Cultural Museum in the heart of Palm Springs is a 30-year dream realized. 

The contents of the museum were revealed to the community during its grand opening on Nov. 4. During the dedication, Tribal Chairman Reid D. Milanovich said that every federally-recognized tribe in the United States “has a distinct culture that includes traditions, language, historical clothing, and housing styles, as well as historical food and medicine preparations. We want to share our culture with visitors through our authentic voice. This is our story, in our voice. We are here today just like we have been since time immemorial.”

A first look at the Agua Caliente Gathering Plaza 

The Oasis Path at the Agua Caliente Cultural Museum in Palm Springs, California, is illuminated at night

The Oasis Trail at night. Photo by Kathy Condon

When the fences came down around the finished complex, the 10,000-square-foot Agua Caliente Museum and the Agua Caliente Gathering Plaza were revealed. Outdoor spaces featuring desert native plants surround both, so you can sit and enjoy the serenity and beauty of the area at no cost. The Oasis Trail also winds through the plaza and is an interactive cultural experience in miniature of the nearby Indian Canyons and Tahquitz Canyon trails. The recreated rock formations add to the authenticity of the pathway.

JCJ Architecture out of Phoenix designed the project, and their guiding principles for the space were based on the tribe’s values and commitment to their story.

Entering the Agua Caliente Cultural Museum

A thatched hut replica inside the Agua Caliente Cultural Museum in Palm Springs, California

The museum’s exhibition space is filled with artifacts. Photo by Kathy Condon

The Agua Caliente Cultural Museum’s design is rooted in a tradition reminiscent of basket weaving, pottery, and elements of the Agua Caliente Indian Reservation. Inside the building, the designs incorporated into the floors, lights, and decor all have been meticulously selected to represent aspects of the Agua Caliente culture in five separate exhibition areas.

The journey through the building begins with a film. You are seated in a longhouse-style theatre with 360-degree viewing. The 12-minute film tells the story of the tribe’s creation.

When you exit the theatre, the building’s curved pathway leads to a permanent exhibition displaying the tribe’s history in Coachella Valley. Historical photographs line the wall, interspersed with timelines. Glass cases in the center of the room reveal the beauty of the collection of well-preserved baskets used by ancestors to gather berries and store and prepare food. The artistry involved will cause you to stop and observe the intricate details of the perfectly-shaped baskets.

The beaded clothing of both men and women is displayed with an explanation of the ceremonial occasions on which they were used. In a nearby area, cases show the artifacts discovered when digging began for the museum’s construction. The objects found revealed the Agua Caliente tribes were in Coachella Valley even earlier than was previously thought: 5,000 to approximately 8,000 years ago.

Photos offer a look at the past

A well-designed and perfectly lit gallery is a beautiful way to observe incredible photos of the tribe. Both current and historically valuable photos have captured ceremonies, individuals, and scenes that illustrate the tribe’s life.  Plan to spend some time here. The more you look at the photos, the more you notice. The museum is the perfect place to look deeper into the Agua Caliente culture, and there are knowledgeable people on hand ready to help you learn.

Stopping by the museum store 

A woman holds a piece of pottery inside the gift shop at the Agua Caliente Cultural Museum

One-of-a-kind treasures await in the museum gift shop. Photo by Kathy Condon

When you wander into the store, you will immediately observe that this is not an ordinary museum gift shop. There are no duplicate gadgets or kitschy items. A glass case holds handmade jewelry and one-of-a-kind rings, earrings, and bracelets are beautifully displayed.

The entire space has been carefully curated with art made by Indigenous people from throughout the United States. Weavings and paintings adorn the walls, while exquisite pottery is waiting to find a place in your home. You can visit the museum store without paying an admission fee.

Everything else you need to know about the Agua Caliente Cultural Museum

Admission to the museum is $10 for adults; $5 for seniors 65+, children 6+, and college students with ID; and free for kids under 6, military members and veterans, locals with government ID, and Native Americans with ID.

Educational opportunities are abundant, and signing up for the museum’s newsletter lets you keep tabs on lectures and classes offered during your stay. Presently, there are scheduled lectures about the artifacts found when digging the project; the design of the building; and basketry. 

If you have a car, there is plenty of free parking. The entire area is handicap accessible.

This incredible asset is within walking distance of many of our Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels, and could be combined with a visit to the luxurious Spa at Séc-he. When you come to Palm Springs, plan to take a couple of hours to learn about the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians, the first settlers of Palm Springs.

Pretty sure May in Palm Springs is gonna be like everyone else’s early July: hot and sunny, but sans the swarms of bugs you find everywhere else. If I didn’t live here, I would be looking at my options of where to stay on my visit.

The big festivals are over, snowbirds will have left, and traffic will be peaceful again. More importantly, summer rates are upon us, so book a cozy vacation for two or weekend getaway with your besties in the place locals call paradise.

Here’s what’s going on in May (as well as some reminders of a few important future events):

Special events

May 3: Rock the Park — Journey cover band, 7 to 9 p.m., Downtown Park next to Marilyn (Belardo and Museum Way).

May 5-7: Superbloom Art Event — Local artists display their latest depictions of the superbloom.

May 5: Cinco de Mayo celebration at Low Desert — One of our newest Mexican restaurants, on the south end in the Smoketree Shopping Center.

May 11: Arthur Lyons Film Noir Festival at Palm Springs Cultural Center. Through May 14.

May 17: Movies in the Park: The Girl Can’t Help It, starring Jayne Mansfield. Beer and wine available for purchase. Free event.

May 25: Chef-driven five-course prix fixe meal with wine pairings from Plumpjack Winery at Melvyn’s in the Ingleside Inn. Tickets here.

May 26: Stars on Ice at Acrisure Arena

May 29: Memorial Day Flower Drop at the Palm Springs Air Museum — A fly-by and flower drop of more than 3,000 red and white carnations from a CH-47 Chinook Helicopter. This most impressive ceremony is a salute to the fallen. Visitors are invited to pick up a flower to take home. Flight exhibitions and activities scheduled all day.

May 31: Movies in the ParkFunny Face, with Audrey Hepburn and Fred Astaire. Beer and wine available for purchase. Free event

Recurring

PS Air: Movies, live music, drinks, food and drag. Oh and it’s kind of on a plane? So fun you’ll never want to touch down.

Reforma Nightclub: Food, dancing, drag shows, it’s the latest nightclub in town.

Purple Room: Rat Pack-y vibes with very cool entertainment, including my favorite show in town, The Judy Show. Great dinner options, too.

PS Underground: Themed dinner shows, and each one is very different. They’re always evolving, always doing something new. Money well spent here.

Oscar’s:  From drag to plays to celebrity shows, and their famous 4 p.m. Sunday Tea Dance.

V Wine Lounge: Right out of Mad Men, so many seating areas, all mid-century modern, and an eclectic wine selection. Beer and cocktails, too.

Cascade Lounge in Agua Caliente Spa

Desert Blues Revival: Wednesday nights

Jazzville: Thursday nights

Caliente Comedy: Friday nights

Latin Nights: every Sunday (unticketed)

Welcome to the Cascade Lounge. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

Palm Springs Cultural Center

Markets: Farmers’ Market on Saturdays, Vintage on designated Sundays.

Come On Up: Weekly local music, great cocktail hour spot, 5 to 7 p.m.

Concerts and Musical Events: Films, concerts, events (I guess I already said that).

Activities

CannaBus Express Tours: What you don’t know about cannabis you’ll know by the time this three-hour tour is through. From growers to distillers to dispensaries, tour guide Lynne rolls with the vibe. As she likes to say, “Let’s ride.”

MOGO Silent Disco: Shut up and dance.

Desert Tasty Tours: This is a three-hour walking tour of Palm Springs. Learn some history, visit the most Instagram-able spot in Palm Springs, and eat delicious food from a variety of restaurants (there are four or five food stops).

Heads up on upcoming big events:

Splash House June

Modernism Week February goes on sale Nov. 1, 2023

Power Trip October – Metal music festival

The Dinah is September 20-24

Pride is November 3-5

That’s it for May. Hope to see you around town, and don’t forget to shop and stay local!

By Susan Montgomery

My daughter (who is 40-something) is a busy surgeon in San Diego.  I love to travel with her, but she does not have much time to get away. The challenge is: Where can we enjoy a weekend getaway that is not too far away and still feels like a real retreat? Fortunately, we have a lot in common when it comes to our travel preferences. We both love nice hotels with all the amenities (including a fabulous pool of course), wonderful restaurants and cocktails, unique shopping, and lovely weather in the great outdoors.

We have taken a few trips to Palm Springs together and found everything we want in a getaway, including beautiful weather almost any time of year. This article highlights a few of our wonderful experiences on several trips. If you would like to visit Palm Springs with your daughter (or your mother or your sister or your best friend), you might like to stop at some of these spots too.

Stay at The Weekend

We love staying at the small boutique hotels in Palm Springs where we find privacy and serenity in lush settings. While we’ve had relaxing stays at several delightful hotels, I think The Weekend Palm Springs is an ideal choice for a mother/daughter getaway because it offers stylishly furnished two-bedroom suites. My daughter and I prefer our own rooms so this works well for us. At The Weekend, we can stay together but have our own separate rooms for sleeping. (I’ve heard that I snore, but that can’t possibly be true.)

A classic example of mid-century modern architecture, this sleek, luxurious hotel in the lovely Old Las Palmas neighborhood was once a retreat for many of the “rat pack” Hollywood celebrities. The structure has recently undergone a stunning, multi-million dollar renovation but still retains its historical character. These suites surround a beautiful, inviting pool with lounge chairs and benches. (I can just imagine Marilyn Monroe languidly lounging by the pool.) The Weekend is a peaceful getaway but still within easy walking distance of hip bars, restaurants, and shops. Included with each stay is a delicious, ample continental breakfast delivered right to your room every morning. We both love savoring early morning coffee and really looked forward to the delectable breakfast trays.

Eat and drink

There are so many special spots in Palm Springs for great food and cocktails. Here are just a few suggestions for places my daughter and I love.

Azucar is the restaurant at La Serena Villas and is a perfect stop for lunch or dinner. The setting is modish and open with an upstairs deck overlooking the mountains and the pool. The cocktails are innovative and the food is equally tantalizing. We loved the fish tacos and watermelon salad with feta, but there are many other enticing choices.

Cocktails at Azucar in La Serena Villas

Holiday House is another chic restaurant in a small hotel. Its bar focuses on creative cocktails (such as the Aperol Spritz or the Club 55 martini (made with gin, elder flower liqueur, lemon, and rosemary-infused syrup). For lunch, if you are really hungry, you will love the juicy Pantry Cheeseburger or for a healthier option, try the Baby Kale Salad topped with salmon.

Cheeky’s (adjacent to the Alcazar Hotel) is the perfect place for a tasty breakfast or lunch before exploring Palm Springs. We love their cheesy eggs and unique bacon flight accompanied by great coffee or a spicy bloody mary. (Start the day with a zing!)

Wexler’s Deli at another small hotel, Arrive, attracts a lively youngish crowd, but this older babe loved it too. The vibe is rocking and the drinks are refreshing. We tried the savory smoked fish platter that paired well with some unique cocktails, including one that looked just like a snow cone (but was infused with vodka)

For Late Night Fun

When traveling with your daughter, you can’t go to bed too early. After dinner, the night has just begun and there is lots to do in Palm Springs.

My daughter particularly enjoyed the cozy speakeasy, Seymour’s, which is hidden away in the famous steakhouse Mr. Lyons (also an excellent dining choice). Its secret location and dimly lit atmosphere capture the ambiance of prohibition days. Creative cocktails are imaginative and delicious.

The Purple Room in the Trinidad Hotel is an iconic supper club with live entertainment Tuesdays through Sundays and vintage cocktails like Old Blue Eyes, the signature old-fashioned that was evidently Frank’s favorite drink. The dinner menu also offers traditional, nicely prepared steak, fish and pasta options. When we were there most recently, the talented owner, Michael Holmes, was performing a special show with nostalgic rat pack songs that carried us back to a bygone era. I almost expected Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin to stroll out on stage to soothe us with their old favorites.

Also harking back to the Hollywood era is the Casablanca Lounge in Melvyn’s Restaurant at the Ingleside Inn. (Melvyn’s is also a romantic spot for classic dishes like Steak Diane and Bananas Foster prepared flambè at your table.) Guests sip cocktails and dance to live music most nights, making this a perfect stop for an after dinner drink.

To do:

Besides eating and drinking, there is lots to do in Palm Springs—all activities that appeal to both my daughter and me. Most of the small hotels have bikes for guests and plenty of tours are available from celebrity home bus tours to walking tours around various neighborhoods. We love the entrancing Palm Springs Art Museum. The impressive collections focus on art of the Americas and California, including Native American artifacts and contemporary glass art, highlighted by a stunning Chihuly sculpture. My daughter and I have also really enjoyed the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway. In ten minutes, you can ride in a unique tramcar (with a rotating floor) from the Coachella Valley desert up 8,500 feet to a top peak of the San Jacinto Mountains. At the top you can savor the gorgeous views, hike around, and then have lunch. And of course once you are back from your tram ride, you can shop, shop, shop in the many small boutiques with unique items you can’t find anywhere else. We particularly like the shops with mid-century furnishings and décor.

We never get tired of visiting Palm Springs. There is so much to see and do — and eat and drink — and it’s so special to share the experience with your daughter — or your mother. I hope to go back with my daughter for my birthday soon.

Is your daily life starting to wear you down? Are you experiencing symptoms of undue stress — constant worrying, sleepless nights, feelings of anxiety? Or, maybe you’re just looking for a change of scene.

It may be time for a true getaway, and Palm Springs is your perfect destination. Not only is the weather beautiful, but there are lots of “get-away-from-it-all” activities and a plethora of charming, peaceful boutique hotels in the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels group that provide the ideal places to relax and regroup.

Here are some tips that may help you plan a real getaway in Palm Springs:

First, decide if you are going to get away alone or with another person, like a partner or friend. Sometimes another person can just add to your stress or distract you from focusing on relaxation — in that case, a solo getaway may be your best option. On the other hand, a traveling companion may enhance your getaway experience. It all depends on the person and what you are seeking in a getaway.

 The inviting pool at Azure Sky. Photo courtesy of Azure Sky

If you do decide to visit Palm Springs with someone else, make sure that the two of you either have similar ideas for your trip or that the other person respects your desire to experience a true getaway. If you just want to relax at your hotel and lounge around the pool, and your companion wants to hop around to museums and entertainment venues, then you need to respect each other’s wishes. You don’t have to do everything together. 

Set your getaway goals before you arrive in Palm Springs — do your research and make a list of activities that interest you, keeping in mind that trying something new is a wonderful way to get away from your daily routine. Consider going to  a spa or booking a massage, or how about that long-overdue pedicure? But please don’t over-plan. Doing too much in one day can be stressful. Allow plenty of time for naps! 

A bedroom at Sparrows Lodge. Photo courtesy of Sparrows Lodge

Choose a hotel that meets your relaxation goals. I have probably stayed at about 10 PSPSH boutique hotels in Palm Springs and I must say that they were all wonderful places to relax, but some are busier than others. They all have a relatively small number of rooms, so you will not be inundated by the distractions of lots of other guests. Many of these hotels are for adults only, and this is important if you don’t want cute but noisy little kids jumping over your lounge chair while you’re trying to lose yourself in a good book or take a serene snooze. Do you want a vibrant music scene around the pool or a more soothing atmosphere? Read the hotel reviews or call and ask about the atmosphere.

Consider a getaway where you can escape technology and the media for awhile. Several PSPSH hotels have no televisions or in-room phones, such as Azure Sky, Sparrows Lodge, and Korakia Pensione. (But of course, even if you stay in a hotel with a TV, you don’t have to turn it on.) You can also put your mobile phone and laptop away for a few days and just enjoy the sun, the sky, the pool, and a few friendly exchanges with other hotel guests. Be sure to bring some good books for relaxed reading.

The Artist Studio at Korakia Pensione. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

Think about keeping a daily journal. Jot down random thoughts that come into your head. Record goals for maintaining a stress-free life when you return home. Or write about the many positive aspects of your life, and what you appreciate right now. Don’t focus on your problems — focus on what is good.

Meditation and mindful exercise or stretching routines like yoga can also be helpful in finding tranquility. Maybe you can start each day with a meditation on what you love about your life and how you hope to find peace in the future. There are also many wonderful hiking options in the Palm Springs area. Investigate those ahead of time and perhaps plan to take a daily walk or hike. There is nothing like nature to soothe your soul.

A hike in Indian Canyon is always a good idea. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

During your getaway, emphasize healthy eating and keeping alcohol to a minimum. Focus on fruits, vegetables, and fiber, which contribute to a healthy digestive system. A glass of wine occasionally is fine, but don’t overdo the cocktails. Many PSPSH hotels have small kitchens in their rooms so you can bring these healthy foods with you. Or you can order out from local restaurants if you don’t want to leave the hotel. 

Plan to stay long enough to really decompress. A week’s stay is ideal if possible.

I guarantee if you follow some or all of these suggestions you will leave refreshed and ready to embark on your daily challenges with renewed vigor. Remember the three Rs — relax, renew, refresh. Savor every moment.