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Happy Pride, Palm Springs!

In case you didn’t know, 2024 is the Year of the Wood Dragon. Next year is the Year of the Snake, and I’m having a personal chuckle fest over that. I hope, for the lesbians, 2026 is the Year of the Beaver, but I don’t think they have those in China.

Another NBC “The More You Know” moment: Palm Springs is approximately 48 percenet gay, and 50 percent are allies. The other two percent are like a disgraced relative — we don’t talk about them. But considering everything, those are pretty good percentages. And there is a 100 percent chance you will have a ball at the Pride Parade, gay or straight. 

Of course, the events cater to the gay community, and not all of them are represented on the Pride website. So, I’ve combed through all the Eventbrite offerings I could find, and I’ve listed them below. If you’re straight, there’s still plenty to do, see my other post.

If you haven’t already, hurry up and book one of our Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels that cater to gay men. I promise you’ll find something just as special as you are.

For all of the info on Pride and the parade, go here. 

Official Pride parties

Nov. 1, 4 to 11 p.m. — Arenas Pride Kickoff. High-energy DJs and dancing in the streets. This is the place to be for house and dance music, food trucks, and outdoor beverage lounges. My buddy, DJ ModGirl, is headlining, and let me tell you this girl is the most fun ever put into one human. Not only does she spin great dance music, she has boundless energy. GO! 

Nov. 2 — Arenas Area District Block Party. The official Party of Pride features DJs all night. Join Pride revelers and dancers at the open-air beverage lounge. The block party invites residents and visitors to discover all that the Arenas District has to offer.

Nov. 3 — Pride Parade!

The rest of the festivities

Cotton candy skies above the sparkling pool at the Trixie Motel in Palm Springs, California

Trixie Motel will welcome guests on Nov. 2 for Hot Pink Pride Edition.

Nov. 1 — Fabuloso Tropical Party at Reforma Palm Springs. Terrific nightclub located in The Jewel Box of the Desert, a Class 1 Historic Site. But you just care about the party, and here’s where you can find it.

Nov. 1, 9 p.m. – 2 a.m. — Queer Women’s Pride Party. Although the population is mostly gay men, it’s nice to see the girls getting their own party. Check it out, ladies.

Nov. 1 — Chill Bar presents Pink Box VIP Lounge. From the event page: “Come and go as you please with an exclusive VIP entrance to the lounge and Chill Bar. Enjoy complimentary water, soft drinks, and Red Bull all weekend. Sample specialty cocktails featuring Absolut Elyx and Codigo 1530. Exclusive entertainment.”

Nov. 2, 10 a.m. — Wilma & Frieda PS: Jasmine Masters & Friends. — Mostly known for their pastries and brunch, Wilma & Frieda has a great balcony for watching the parade. Jasmine Masters is not only a drag queen, but the Queen of Memes and 2019 GIPHY’s 1st place winner.

Nov. 2, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. — Trixie Motel presents Hot Pink Pride Edition. If it’s Trixie, you know it’s going to be FABULOUS! AND you get an opportunity to get pinked by Trixie’s hotel.

Nov. 2 — Ride the Rainbow LGBTQ Pride Pool Party. At the Canyon Club, one of our gay resorts. Jump in or just enjoy the view.

Nov. 2 — Palm Springs Pride: Reforma Presents Inferno feat. HoneyLuv. It’s a nightclub, one of only two in Palm Springs, and HoneyLuv is an International DJ and producer who has performed at Coachella, EDC in Las Vegas, Brooklyn Mirage, and Space Miami. 

Nov. 2, 10 a.m. — TITS & TEA: A Bad Bitch Brunch at Boozehounds Palm Springs. I don’t think I need to explain this one.

Nov. 2 — Queerlesque! An Evening of Oddity Featuring Yvie Oddly! Hosted by Ongina, at Boozehounds.

Nov. 2 — Canopy 54: A Studio 54 Inspired Disco Night. This venue is all class, so expect the best out of this event.

Nov. 2 — DaddyPop! Palm Springs Pride • A Saturday Afternoon Tea w/ Matt Consola. At Reforma.

Nov. 2 — Yvie Oddly meet and greet and book signing at Just Fabulous.

Nov. 2 — Drag Brunch Divas at Trio Restaurant. 

Nov. 3 — Giornata Amazing Sundays Palm Springs Pride Drag Brunch at Reforma.

Nov. 3 — Gay (Gay Day) at Birba Palm Springs

Nov. 3, 9 a.m. — Pride on the Rooftop in Palm Springs. Flannery Exchange. Once again, DJ ModGirl will be providing the entertainment. Great view, great music. 

That’s all I can find for right now. Some things tend to pop up last minute, that’s just how laid back we are. But during Pride? The whole town is a party celebrating inclusion! 

Happy Pride Wood Dragoners!

Modernism and technology have come together to offer a unique experience at The Cole Palm Springs. The hotel is operated by Sonder, a hospitality management company that utilizes an innovative approach here and in more than 40 cities worldwide.

Sonder was founded on the principle that you can get anything from your mobile phone. You can find rooms and even loft apartments for short-term rentals and make reservations, and are sent an access code on the day of arrival.

At The Cole Palm Springs, check-in time is 4 p.m., and you can come in and swim or find a quiet corner to read in the courtyard until your room is prepared. Once it’s ready, you will receive a text with a code that opens your room’s door. At The Cole, you are instantly transported back to the ’60s, with the rooms artfully decorated by design experts who have incorporated replicas of items that would have been used during the Modernism period.

As you look around the space, you will see a retro mini-bar refrigerator and Victrola Bluetooth stereo. Be sure to look out the window — you’ll likely have a magnificent view of our mountains, which proudly surround our beautiful valley.

The view of the pool from a room at The Cole Hotel in Palm Springs

A typical view from one of the spacious rooms at The Cole Palm Springs. Photo by Kathy Condon

What does a hotel managed by Sonder look like?

On the table on the far wall is a card with a QR code, which, when opened, provides you with several pieces of information, including the number to reach someone on the grounds (they are on call 24 hours) and a code for more towels. There’s also instructions for the television and coffee pot, a list of attractions you might want to check out during your stay in Palm Springs (we have much more happening than just playing golf and sitting around a swimming pool), and the menu and hours of operation for Freddie’s Kitchen at The Cole. By the way, locals are giving this on-site restaurant rave reviews for its excellent food.

There are a couple of things you also should be aware of when staying at The Cole: this is an adults-only hotel, dogs are not allowed, and there is a charge of $15 per day for parking.

A blue door

The Cole has several one-of-a-kind doors. Photo by Nadine Conger

Who developed Sonder?

Co-founder and CEO Francis Davidson’s vision was created over time. It began when he started managing apartments, and kept seeing the same patterns and issues repeating. By recording those issues and matching travelers’ needs, he was able to create a new plan for managing short-term rentals. Sonder was officially formed in Montreal in 2014, with the help of Martin Picard, now the company’s chief real estate officer.

Sonder’s mission is to “redefine hospitality by bringing exceptional stays everywhere,” and they are doing this by utilizing the technology of a mobile phone;  developing relationships with world-class architects and designers to ensure each space meets the established high standards; minimizing the company’s environmental footprint (for example, single-use plastic has been eliminated from all properties); and offering 24/7 support and easy check-in and check-out.

Palm Springs looks back at its history through Modernism Week each year. The Cole represents that period, with its décor that harkens back to the era. However, with the help of Sonder, it is among the most forward-thinking, technology-run hotels in the Coachella Valley.

The sign in front of The Cole Hotel in Palm Springs

Your sign that you’ve arrived at The Cole Hotel in Palm Springs. Photo by Nadine Conger

We’ve been watching the weather and see snowflakes are starting to fly in many parts of the country. While we’re not fortune tellers, we can tell you a sure way to avoid some of the winter snow: come visit Palm Springs, California, where the sun shines 350 days a year. 

Our pools are heated, and most assuredly, you will find palm trees nearby to take the perfect picture to send back home to your friends. If you want a cocktail in your hand for the photo while you are relaxing, that can be arranged, too.

We may be a little prejudiced, but we think one of our more than 70 boutique hotels will meet the vision you had in your head of a winter getaway. The official definition of a boutique hotel is 50 rooms or less. However, when you start looking, you will discover Palm Springs has many small hotels with under 20 rooms. One of the more intimate hotels was once the home of movie star Gloria Swanson. Now called Amin Casa, it has one studio; four private bungalows with full kitchens, living areas, and bedrooms; and Swanson’s original residence, a premier space with a grand living area and historic stone fireplace.

Our Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels website is the place to start your exploration, and here’s why:

1. Honest descriptions of our hotels

Journalists and travel writers have written the descriptions of our hotels, so you won’t read hyped-up marketing speak on our site. We strive to tell it like it is and often interview the property managers and owners, so what you read is what you can expect to experience once you arrive at your hotel.

The beautiful pool at Amin Casa. Photo courtesy of Amin Casa

2. A search tool that works

Whether you’re looking for a gay men’s clothing-optional resort, a hotel where you can bring your dog, or a property with a spa, all you have to do is put the specific term in our search bar and you’ll find what you’re looking for. Speaking of bringing your pup to Palm Springs, this is a very dog-friendly town, and you can take Fido just about everywhere. It’s not unheard of to arrive at a hotel and see a welcome sign waiting for Fido at the registration desk. By the way — be ready to find water bowls in front of storefronts and cashiers asking if your dog can have one of the treats carefully hidden behind the counter. 

3. Dining and shopping recommendations from insiders

With no empty storefronts, this town is thriving, and new shops are enticing visitors and residents alike. Our Boutiquely Palm Springs blog may help you decide where to start, but be aware that it can be hard even for locals to keep up with our ever-changing town, so you may discover some locally owned shops that just popped up.

Our food scene is also attracting some of the finest chefs in the nation, who know sophisticated foodies from all over the world flock to Palm Springs — and they are not about to disappoint. Our bloggers are writing in depth about restaurants and chefs, making our site is an excellent place to start researching restaurants that serve your favorite cuisine.

Everyone — dogs included — love shopping in Palm Springs. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

4. Extensive event guides to find out what’s happening in town

With the busy season starting, you will want to check out the many attractions open and special events taking place in our city during your stay. Our blog has comprehensive articles about everything from Pride and Modernism Week to the best hiking trails in the desert. In addition, you will find articles written about lesser-known places you might want to visit.

5. Maps to show you the way

The Palm Springs International Airport is only about two miles from downtown. The Coachella Valley, home to Palm Springs and eight other cities, is 45 miles long, and some destinations are pretty far from the airport — Indio, for example, is 20 miles away. If you’re not renting a car, you can see why our proximity to the airport is a superb reason to stay nearby. The Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels website has a map that shows all of our hotels in relation to the airport, as well as landmarks, attractions, and neighborhoods.

Cruising up to the Palm Springs International Airport in style. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

There is so much to explore in our area, and some planning can help ensure you have a stress-free vacation. Doesn’t it sound easy to sit in your comfy chair at home, favorite drink in hand, and use our Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels website to plan your dream vacation?

Near downtown Palm Springs, California, the Korakia Pensione quietly reveals itself on South Patencio Road. 

As someone who lives in Palm Springs, even I was surprised this pensione — meaning a small hotel — was unknown to me until I discovered it through the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels website. 

Korakia is pronounced kor-a-kee-a. The name comes from the Greek word for “crow,” a bird abundant in the mountains of Greece. The hotel’s original name was Dar Marroc, but when Doug Smith, of Greek descent, became the owner in the late 1980s, he changed the name to Korakia Pensione. 

Once you enter the grounds, you will instantly see why Smith felt at home here. Olive trees surround the Moroccan-style architecture, and flowering bougainvillea winds its way up the beautiful arches. When painter Gordon Coutts built the property in 1924 as a hideaway, he brought with him décor reminiscent of his life in Tangier. 

The Marrakech Suite. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

Three-tier fountains grace the courtyard, and a spacious pool is heated to 94 degrees. Yes, you read it right. One of the luxurious amenities is the ability to swim in the middle of the winter under our beautiful Palm Springs starlit sky. 

After a swim, wrap yourself in a robe then find your way to one of the property’s many fire pits. People come here from all over the world, and you’re bound to find yourself sharing stories with other guests.

An extension of the inn

The silent screen actress J. Carol Naish owned the villa across the street from Coutts’ property, and after it was purchased in 1933, it became part of the pensione. The Mediterranean-style buildings and grounds have seamlessly been combined, offering 28 rooms on more than two acres. 

The Naish House. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

The courtyard serves many purposes

Surrounded by olive and fruit trees, the courtyard is the place to be for guests when it’s time to enjoy the breakfast provided by the pensione. Small tables allow you to have your coffee alone, or if you want to join others, moving tables is not a problem, so you can have robust conversations if you desire. 

Then in the afternoon, a lovely tea is served to guests, still providing another opportunity if you choose to engage in conversation with others. 

Tea is served. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

A recent addition to the hotel’s offerings is a Moroccan dinner catered by Eight4Nine, a popular local restaurant. Its success has even caught the staff off guard, so you will want to check their schedule and make reservations if you are in the area when this special evening is offered (which, at the time of writing this article, is once a month). 

Rent the venue for…

A corporate retreat

Recently, the entire space was rented for a corporate retreat — those were some lucky employees, though it may have been a tad hard to concentrate knowing there is a heated pool steps away. There are plenty of spaces for people to scatter during breaks or even to play bocce ball. Later in the evening, join colleagues around the firepit to watch a classic or foreign film on the outdoor screen.

Outdoor movie screenings are a benefit of staying at Korakia. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

To ensure you have the team’s full attention for the retreat, there is no WiFi, TV, or clocks to distract from the task at hand. This is a resort that believes if you want to refresh and renew, technology needs to be left behind.

Weddings

Are you planning a desert wedding? One spot that should be moved to the top of your list is the Korakia. The courtyard, already surrounded by olive trees and bougainvillea, is turned into a magical place, with more flowers added to the arched doors. You now have the perfect backdrop for your vows. 

Cocktail hour is by the fountain, which welcomes guests with rushing water. All around the pool, your friends and family can mingle and share stories about how your life touched theirs. 

The perfect wedding backdrop. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

The celebration doesn’t stop there. A short walk across the quiet street to the other section of the pensione brings you down a path set aglow with lanterns and candles to still another courtyard for your reception. This flat space is perfect for your festive tables. 

I love the idea of your cake on a small table near the firepit. Imagine the effect created in your photos, so the glow reflects in the nighttime sky as you cut your cake together. 

Photo shoots

If you want to do a Mediterranean photo shoot without the expense of flying to Europe, Korakia Pensione can fill that need. Remember, we talked about the olive trees and fountains, and oh yes, they have a spa too, which lends itself to luxury photos. 

Family reunions

I can only imagine getting an announcement from a relative that it’s been decided our next get together will be at the Korakia. Some caveats: children under 13 are not allowed at the resort, and your beloved dog must find another place to vacation.

An authentic experience

I recently interviewed Korakia General Manager Paulette Monarrez, and as our conversation was coming to a close, I asked how long she had been involved with the hotel. Her smile broadened as she said, “15 years.” I then asked what she was most proud of in her work here, and without a beat, she responded, “We have an all-women staff. Also, I appreciate that so much care has been given to preserving the buildings. Plus, authentic Moroccan and Mediterranean artwork in the rooms and throughout the grounds adds a special touch to the Korakia.”

Walking away, I smiled to myself. Touring one of our Palm Springs boutique hotels is always rewarding because they are all so different. My suggestion: Use the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels website to pick out your winter destination and call the hotel directly — they can assist in making the perfect accommodations for your desert stay. 

One of the hotel’s many fire pits. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

“Too much of a good thing is wonderful.” — Liberace

When you Google “best gay cities,” my results did not include one single listicle mentioning Palm Springs. What? People, our entire city council is LGBTQIA, and from Wikipedia’s entry for Gay Village: “An estimated 33 to 50 percent of Palm Springs, California, are gay male or other parts of the LGBTQ community; this statistic makes them the largest percentage community in the US.”

In 2016, Palm Springs received a final score of 100 points in the Human Rights Campaign’s Municipal Equality Index Scorecard. Our city exceeded the highest possible final score of 100 with a raw score of 109, and we’ve kept that score through their last report of 2020.

Speaking of the ’20s, 100 years ago, Palm Springs began its journey as a playground for celebrities and the LGBTQ+ community thanks to Dr. Florilla White and her sister Cornelia. The two “independent and eccentric women” (code: lesbian) purchased the Palm Springs Hotel and spiffed it up a bit. Rudolph Valentino spent his second honeymoon there (it was escandalo!), and Greta Garbo demanded the premiere of Camille be held at the new Plaza Theater while she stayed at the hotel. Side note: if it weren’t for the founding mothers of Palm Springs (the White Sisters, Nellie Coffman, Lois Kellog —she was a wild one! — and Pearl McCallum McManus), it might still be a dusty little town. And the Cahuilla likely wouldn’t be where they are today without the 1950s all-women tribal council. Historically, in Palm Springs, men beat the drum of awareness while the women quietly made history. Sisters, amirite?

Liberace.

Palm Springs is so gay Liberace, Rock Hudson, Tab Hunter, Barry Manilow and gay icons Cher and Carol Channing had/have homes here. Not to mention the other “maybe they were, maybe there weren’t” plethora of stars. Although there is speculation, it doesn’t really matter, because Palm Springs has always offered personal privacy. No one is getting “outed” if they don’t want to be out.

Courtesy of CV Independent

In the 1980s, two anti-gay and AIDS-related bills were soundly trounced and, according to a 2017 article in Palm Springs Life, in 1991 club owner Gloria Green opened the first gay bar on Arenas Road, A Streetbar Named Desire (now known as Streetbar). I qualify that with the Palm Springs Life article because most accounts attribute the bar to Dick Haskamp and Hank Morgan, who apparently purchased it in the same year. So something is a little sketchy about the origins — however, Arenas would soon build up to become an all-gay city block with clubs and stores catering to gay men.

Pride was first celebrated in Palm Springs with a showcase called Sizzle. It wasn’t well received or advertised, and Sizzle fizzled out until 1992. By 1997, The Desert Sun estimated 30,000 people watched the (now) Pride parade.

Our gayness isn’t limited to Arenas. Oscar’s is alive almost every night with gay-leaning entertainment and Sundays is all about celebrating your gayness at the T-Dance. You can hear the party from blocks away.

We have so many drag queens they could hold court for an entire generation of royals, and they’re damn fine. Late night entertainment at The Copa and Toucans include long-running drag shows that pack the rooms, and drag brunches abound in our exceptionally inviting cozy town.

The San Francisco establishment of transgender performers AsiaSF chose Palm Springs as its second home. They opened just before the pandemic, and I’m told will reopen again in November — maybe December — of this year. I went to the opening in early 2020 (before you know what): these ladies are hot AF.

Some of the finest dining in Palm Springs is brought to you by gay restaurateurs. Roly China Fusion, Tropicale, Eight4Nine, Trio, PS Underground (an exciting take on dinner theater), The Purple Room (supper club), and 533 Viet Fusion to name just a few not on Arenas.

Desert Rose Playhouse is the one and only LGBTQ theater company and venue in the Coachella Valley. Now in Palm Springs proper at the old Zelda’s Nightclub space, they produce, support and elevate LGBTQ stories, actors, playwrights, and musicians. I have never been disappointed by their productions. So far this year I have seen The Great American Trailer Park Musical and Rocky Horror, and have tickets to see Hedwig and the Angry Inch. It’s a great space with a great vibe and the shows are delicious.

We have an LGBTQ+ community center, PFLAG (for supporters), and a retirement community for gays called Stonewall Gardens. We have two gay radio stations, the Gay Desert Guide, and the Palm Springs Cultural Center, with a mixture of artsy blockbusters and showcasing gay-themed films.

If you check out our website (already sorted for you!), you’ll find we have 11 resort hotels catering to gay men, some clothing optional. The Warm Sands area is generously dotted with gay boutique hotels.

One of my favorite things that hasn’t yet returned in the pandemic is our star drag queen Bella da Ball (aka Brian Wanzek) reading stories to kids at the Palm Springs Library. Bella even has her own star on our Walk of Stars.

There’s DAP, Desert AIDS Project, a terrific medical establishment that not only caters to gays living with AIDS but also administers to MediCal patients. I was on MediCal for a bit and they provide stellar care (I was sad when my insurance switched). They also run the resale stores Revivals which have terrific bargains on gently-used items, and some brand-new stuff too. Profits benefit DAP.

And of course there is the big event, Palm Springs Pride.

Some “must” events sent to me by Bella Da Ball:

November 1, 6 to 7 p.m.: George Zander Candlelight Vigil and March, 101 N. Museum Dr.

Beginning at the new downtown park (Museum Way and Museum Drive), this rally and march is in honor of George Zander. Six years ago to the day, George and Chris Zander were attacked in downtown Palm Springs, resulting in George’s death on December 10, 2015. This remembrance of George’s life keeps his memory alive, so that no other individual falls victim to a crime of hate.

November 7, 5 to 10 p.m.: Effen Vodka main stage, near the Hyatt Hotel on North Palm Canyon Drive. Party. Huge stage. Special video screens.

But wait, there’s even more eye candy than the parade! On November 5 and 6, enjoy the West Coast premiere of Global Rainbow by American artist Yvette Mattern. Specially designed lasers project a large-scale abstraction of a natural rainbow (the same colors in Gilbert Baker’s rainbow flag) celebrating the diverse LGBTQ+ communities and symbolizing hope and peace. Beamed high above Palm Canyon Drive at Amado Road, as far as the eye can see, until finally diminishing to a colorful glow over South Palm Canyon.  

Hitting the stage on November 5:

5:30 p.m. — Charles Herrera 

6 p.m. — Steven Michael’s Dance Machine, dancers, flaggers, drag

6:15 p.m. — Jason Stuart

6:30 p.m. — Shannon 

7:15 p.m. — Sassy Ross

7:30 p.m. — Jeanie Tracy

8 p.m. — Jody Watley

8:45 p.m. — The Perry Twins

The unadulterated joy and magic the Palm Springs LGBTQ+ community brings to our little town is unparalleled. That’s right, I said it: unparalleled.

Not gay? No one cares, we are a mecca for all who want to be included…unless you’re homophobic, then according to the website Abodo, you should vacation in Buffalo, New York.

See you at Pride!

Tune in on Saturday, April 8 at 4 p.m. PT for the latest episode of “Palm Springs Sunshine Stays,” the show that’s all about things to do and see in Palm Springs.

In this episode, “Spring in Sunny Palm Springs,” Big Blend Radio’s Lisa Smith and Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels’ Kimberli Munkres will chat about April events in Palm Springs, the new Frisky Business Cat Cafe and Boozehounds restaurant, and the five “gayest” drinks in Palm Springs, as chosen by PSPSH blogger Gregory Douglass.

Palm Springs Sunshine Stays is a partnership between Big Blend and PSPSH, with new shows premiering on the second Saturday of the month. Guests include Palm Springs hoteliers, restauranteurs, and business owners who share their insights on Palm Springs and tips and tricks on how travelers can make the most out of their visits to this vibrant city.

There are several ways to listen to Palm Springs Sunshine Stays, including via YouTube, the Big Blend Radio website, and SoundCloud.

What do you think of when planning a visit to Palm Springs?  Of course, I envision gorgeous, soaring palm trees and dramatic mountain vistas highlighted by an almost endless, glorious, radiant sun. Upscale unique shopping and fascinating museums are also on my to-do list. And then there is that stunning trip up the mountainside on the one-of-a-kind Palm Springs Aerial Tramway.

I think of all these attractions, but mostly I think of the charming boutique hotels and also the beautifully presented dishes offered by a wide variety of excellent restaurants.

Kris, a fellow adventuresome travel writer, and I recently visited Palm Springs and focused on the small hotels and food. We both stayed in different Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels — I was at The Muse, where I had a modern comfortable suite and was happily entranced by the cheerful colors and sparkling pool with floating flamingoes. Kris stayed at the Lucille Palm Springs, a Spanish Revival property featuring lush, soothing surroundings.  

In a future article I will focus on these hotels and also on the The Velvet Rope, where we enjoyed touring rooms focused on famous celebrity visitors to Palm Springs. But now I want to share the great restaurants we visited. I’ve visited Palm Springs quite a few times and enjoyed many fabulous restaurants, but this time we mainly dined at places new to us, and they were all outstanding.

Azúcar at La Serena Villas

A plate of Shishito peppers at Azúcar at La Serena Villas

Shishito peppers are a great addition to any meal at Azúcar. Photo by Sue Montgomery

We had a lovely late lunch at Azúcar, located on the grounds of the luxurious La Serena Villas, another special Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotel. We enjoyed the artistically decorated dining area with its enticing menu. We asked the friendly server to bring us some of his favorite dishes. I started our meal with a tangy margarita, which was the perfect accompaniment to crispy, house-made chips and tasty, chunky guacamole. 

This was followed by yummy blistered Shishito peppers served on an ajo (garlic) blanco-style puree, finished with house-made vinegar and bread crumbs. We also enjoyed charred escarole served with an Italian style salsa verde on a bed of leek puree. Our featured dish was succulent grande Iberico pork rack with roasted shallots on a bed of mostarda sauce (made of candied fruit and mustard syrup). The scrumptious vanilla bean pudding topped with whipped cream and served with warm churros was the perfect ending to our wonderful lunch.

Freddie’s Kitchen at The Cole Hotel

A bowl of French onion soup in a white crock from Freddie's Kitchen

A warm bowl of French onion soup is a treat at Freddie’s Kitchen. Photo by Sue Montgomery

After checking into our hotels we met a friend at Freddie’s Kitchen at The Cole Hotel, a newly remodeled small hotel. The atmosphere is fun and casual with food reflecting what the chef describes as “French California cuisine with a focus on France but an international flair.” Chef and owner Frederic Pierrel was born in Alsace, France, and studied cuisine in his native country. This is where he learned to love using seasonal ingredients as he does at Freddie’s. Appropriately, we all started our meals with savory French onion soup. My entrée was Australian barramundi al la plancha, which was delicious. (“Plancha” is a Spanish term meaning cooked on a very hot flattop grill.)  This special fish dish was flavorful but mild. The French-style dark chocolate mousse for desert was a wonderful cap to to an enjoyable meal.

Farm Palm Springs

A plate with a salmon and egg crepe on it topped by a salad

The salmon crepe at The Farm Palm Springs. Photo by Sue Montgomery

Early the next morning, three of us had breakfast at the Farm Palm Springs, a popular spot featuring farm-to-table Provencal dishes in an enchanting country patio setting.  We each ordered different varieties of crepes. I had a delectable crepe full of portobello and shiitake mushrooms, Gruyère cheese, and crème fraiche. It was truly heaven. One of my friends enjoyed a crepe bursting with salmon and spinach, while the other loved her sweet crepe filled with Nutella, chocolate, and strawberries. The atmosphere was warm and gracious. We will definitely return to this welcoming cafe, which is also open for lunch and dinner.

The Barn Kitchen at Sparrows Lodge

A plate of smashed cucumbers at Sparrows Lodge

The unique smashed cucumbers dish at Sparrows Lodge. Photo by Sue Montgomery

After a relaxing afternoon, we were mesmerized during dinner by the magical allure of the Barn Kitchen at Sparrows Lodge, another PSPSH hotel in a lovely setting with twinkling lights adding to the outdoor patio’s ambiance. Our meal began with cocktails and appetizers. We savored the beautifully presented hummus served with cucumber, Kalamata olives, pickled onion, and grilled pita. We also ordered smashed cucumbers, an intriguing dish enhanced by salsa, scallions, peanuts, sesame seeds, and festive cucumber flowers. I am a cucumber lover and this was the most creative presentation of the vegetable I’ve ever tried.

We each ordered a different entrée. My vegetarian dish was roasted organic cauliflower steak served with marble potatoes and topped with a tasty red pepper saffron sauce and shaved fennel. Kris adored her mole, which featured a half chicken smothered in a savory sauce with steamed rice and pickled onion, and our friend Kathy enjoyed the Baja striped bass on a bed of grilled sweet corn, summer squash, Italian peppers, and braised kale. As if we had room for more, we shared a truly decadent chocolate pot de crème made of a passion fruit gel and coconut streusel. (Kathy raved that this was one of the best desserts she had ever eaten.) The Barn Kitchen has an enticing menu of appealing, unique dishes and we all agreed that we would like to stay at the Sparrows Lodge and enjoy this wonderful restaurant again.

Three blonde women hold up their glasses to cheers at The Barn Kitchen's outdoor table

Friends enjoy the beautiful atmosphere of Sparrows Lodge. Photo courtesy of Sue Montgomery

These are just four of the many special restaurants in Palm Springs. Palm Springs is beckoning me to return for a week (or more) so I can stay in charming small hotels and enjoy different wonderful restaurants every day. I would not run out of an abundance of tempting choices.

You know your idea is successful when locals and visitors alike ask if Desert X is happening in the Coachella Valley again this year. With fanfare, we can proudly say the fourth Desert X is not only alive and well, it once again has produced some outstanding art installations definitely worth planning a weekend trip to check them out.

Many of our terrific Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels said their occupancy rate increased immediately after Desert X announced it was taking place March 4 through May 7, 2023. Our boutique hotels, with all their different vibes, are helping people find the perfect atmosphere to launch their journeys to discover the art installations.

What is Desert X? 

This biennial event is an exhibition of 10 art installations throughout our desert landscape. Through a juried process, international and local artists were selected from their portfolios and invited to participate. Desert X identified a theme for 2023 that focuses on how we design our environments and live, which may or may not serve our world well. With the theme in mind, the selection committee hosts the artists and takes them to locations across the Coachella Valley that are accessible to the public and suitable for art to be installed.

How do you find the art installations?  

Physical maps are available at the Ace Hotel. You can also download a map from the Desert X website. If you want to rely on your phones, here are the apps for Desert X for both iOS and Android.

Pro tip: From experience, I can tell you the GPS to these installations may not be totally accurate. Just keep an eye open; sometimes, the art is just on the opposite side of the road that GPS tells you.

Photo by Kathy Condon

What do I need to explore the area? 

Now that you have the map or app, you should know a couple more things. First, you will need a car to explore Desert X — the installations are too spread out for walking.

Even though it feels like 70 degrees is perfect for exploring, our desert sun can be deceiving.  Make sure you apply suntan lotion, take your sunglasses, wear a hat, and have plenty of water. Some of the artworks are located out in the open desert with nary a bit of shade to be found.

In fact, the best way to look at it is to prepare like you are going on a hike in the desert, and you will have all that you need. Oh, and wear closed-toe shoes. Trust me, you will be glad you did, for some paths are loose sand, filled with little spurs that find their way between your toes.

Pro tips: Desert X, upon request, will make reasonable accommodations to ensure people with disabilities have access to the art — email info@desertX.org with inquiries.

Also, take note: there are no restrooms available at the sites.

Desert X is a family event 

Each time Desert X is held, I marvel at the laughter of families who have chosen to explore this free event together. Teenagers seem to relish being the directors to the various locations, while the younger ones frolic on the grounds surrounding each piece of art.

If you have been meaning to come to Palm Springs with a group of friends, Desert X provides the perfect daytime activity. Then, you have the whole evening to enjoy some of our patio restaurants, which offer a variety of cuisines.

What will I see? 

That is the great thing about this exhibition. Every stop is different and is open to interpretation by the person viewing it. I was at the event’s opening and met some artists. Interestingly, most of them were reluctant to explain their art. They want you to experience and come up with your own interpretation.

My experience at an installation

With a friend and a map in hand, we decided to head out to see London artist Rana Begum’s “No. 1225 Chainlink” in Palm Desert. Once we found the site, we parked the car and headed down the pedestrian path to the enormous chainlink fence structure.

To our delight, Rana was onsite and being filmed, so we listened in on the interview. What struck me was that she said, “When you are walking through it, there is a sense of openness and then a sense of things closing in on you, and even a sense of panic for some.”

Rana Begum’s “No. 1225 Chainlink” art installation. Photo by Kathy Condon

I entered the maze, and as it narrowed, I ended up in the middle, where round metal poles allowed me to feel the openness of the space. Then the task of finding my way out was not that easy. Admittedly, I sense panic for a moment — just like the artist predicted. The panic was short-lived, and I was smiling as I walked out.

I stood back and marveled that while the structure was massive, the lemon-colored fencing was somehow at home in its spot. Since it is going to remain in place through May, I can see taking visitors to Palm Springs out to experience it.

Sunnylands hosts an installation  

Frankly, I never need an excuse to visit Sunnylands. Since one of the installations is there — “Amar A Dios En Tierra De Indios, Es Oficio Maternal,” by Mexican artist Paloma Contreras Lomas — we headed out to see it.

It was opening day, and I was once again blessed with the ability to meet the artist, perched on one of the many benches that grace the grounds of Sunnylands. The weather was beautiful, after a couple of rare rainy days in Palm Springs, and we discussed how her art contained several fragile touches and how they were created. 

Desert X certainly does not disappoint. With eight more installations to visit, I am fortunate to live in Palm Springs and able to take off whenever I want to see them. If you plan to visit, I suggest you head to the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels website to make reservations for your accommodations. Word is spreading about this quality and often provocative art scattered throughout Coachella Valley, which adds the adventure of a scavenger hunt. Join in the fun and experience our lovely spring weather while taking in the beauty of our valley, surrounded by our majestic mountains.

For the first time, the Michelin Guide has awarded Michelin Keys in the United States, and four Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels made the list: Dive Palm Springs, Holiday House, La Serena Villas, and Sparrows Lodge.

Michelin said its Keys are bestowed upon hotels that “significantly add to your experience as a traveler, each vetted and judged excellent in five categories: architecture and interior design, quality and consistency of service, overall personality and character, value for the price, and a significant contribution to the guest experience in a particular setting.”

Palm Springs boutique hotels that made the cut

The La Reve Room at Dive Palm Springs with a floral design on the ceiling and hardwood floors and a white bed

The La Reve Room at Dive Palm Springs is a Parisian dream. Photo courtesy of Dive Palm Springs

The Michelin Key is the equivalent of the Michelin Star for restaurants, with hotels able to earn one, two, or three Keys. Dive Palm Springs, Holiday House, La Serena Villas, and Sparrows Lodge all received one Key, denoting “a very special stay.” 

The colorful art-filled lobby at Holiday House greets guests

The colorful lobby at Holiday House greets guests. Photo courtesy of Holiday House

Michelin praised Dive for having an “atmosphere … nothing short of restorative,” and applauded Holiday House’s ability to “cater to the whims of modern travelers.” As for Sparrows Lodge, it is “like a dreamy hipster version of the summer camp of your childhood,” while visitors to La Serena Villas would be “hard pressed to find a lovelier example of colonial-contemporary architecture and design.”

A view of the pool at La Serena Villas in Palm Springs, California, at sunset with the San Jacinto Mountains in the background

Sunset at La Serena Villas. Photo courtesy of Kirkwood Collection

On Thursday, Dec. 12, discover Palm Springs’ unique charm during the annual Walk of the Inns. This free, self-guided walking tour lets locals and visitors alike experience the city’s vibrant boutique hotel holiday scene.

This annual tradition is a delightful way to discover the eclectic hotel properties nestled between Ramon Road and Tahquitz Canyon Way. Guests can expect lively music and refreshments at the different stops, which will include mid-century modern marvels and stunning Mediterranean retreats. Participating hotels will showcase their unique styles and warm hospitality, providing an insider’s look at the distinctive architecture for which Palm Springs is renowned.

What to know about the Walk of the Inns

The Walk of the Inns begins at the Palm Springs Art Museum, where attendees can pick up a complimentary map detailing all the participating hotels and a small flashlight to help illuminate the journey, available on a first-come, first-served basis. Guests are encouraged to bring an unwrapped toy to donate to Well in the Desert, an initiative that supports local families in need. For those looking for an alternate starting point, head to the Palm Springs Woman’s Club.

Participating Walk of the Inns hotels

Casa Cody: The oldest operating hotel in Palm Springs, it was founded by Buffalo Bill Cody’s libertine cousin, Harriet. Casa Cody boasts two pools, an eatery, and historical adobe buildings. It’s a favorite for weddings and family gatherings.

Ingleside Estate: This Spanish Revival landmark has long attracted Hollywood stars. It’s also home to the legendary Melvyn’s Restaurant and Casablanca Lounge, where live music, cocktails, classic dining, and an aura of old Hollywood glamour await.

Avalon Hotel and Bungalows: Known for its flowing series of courtyards, lawns, gardens, and grounds that reveal romantic pools and cabanas, a hidden spa, studios and suites, and historic bungalows.

Talavera Palm Springs: This boho chic boutique hotel offers an intimate escape that is perfect for romance, personal retreats, and solo travelers. Every room boasts a private hot tub.

La Serena Villas: Originally built in 1933 on over an acre of exquisitely landscaped grounds, this Michelin Key hotel offers the perfect Palm Springs backdrop. Home to Azucar Restaurant and Whispers Spa, this hotel has offered respite to generations of discerning travelers.

Amin Casa Hotel: Embodying the luxury of life in Palm Springs, this impressive property dates back to the 1920s and was once the Palm Springs home of Hollywood screen legend and award-winning actress Gloria Swanson.

Lucille Palm Springs: Reimagined in late 2023, its history stretches back over 100 years. The hotel has been welcoming guests since 1921, including Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz, who frequented the property with their family.

Old Ranch Inn: A quintessential small Palm Springs hotel, this charming property embodies the casual nature of Palm Springs. With just eight rooms — many just a few steps away from the central courtyard pool — it is warm and cozy, and just right for a weekend getaway.

The Walk of the Inns is sponsored by the Palm Springs Art Museum, Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels, and the Women’s Club of Palm Springs. This collaboration helps create a welcoming atmosphere that celebrates the spirit of the community and the exceptional hospitality that defines Palm Springs.