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What do you think of when planning a visit to Palm Springs?  Of course, I envision gorgeous, soaring palm trees and dramatic mountain vistas highlighted by an almost endless, glorious, radiant sun. Upscale unique shopping and fascinating museums are also on my to-do list. And then there is that stunning trip up the mountainside on the one-of-a-kind Palm Springs Aerial Tramway.

I think of all these attractions, but mostly I think of the charming boutique hotels and also the beautifully presented dishes offered by a wide variety of excellent restaurants.

Kris, a fellow adventuresome travel writer, and I recently visited Palm Springs and focused on the small hotels and food. We both stayed in different Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels — I was at The Muse, where I had a modern comfortable suite and was happily entranced by the cheerful colors and sparkling pool with floating flamingoes. Kris stayed at the Lucille Palm Springs, a Spanish Revival property featuring lush, soothing surroundings.  

In a future article I will focus on these hotels and also on the The Velvet Rope, where we enjoyed touring rooms focused on famous celebrity visitors to Palm Springs. But now I want to share the great restaurants we visited. I’ve visited Palm Springs quite a few times and enjoyed many fabulous restaurants, but this time we mainly dined at places new to us, and they were all outstanding.

Azúcar at La Serena Villas

A plate of Shishito peppers at Azúcar at La Serena Villas

Shishito peppers are a great addition to any meal at Azúcar. Photo by Sue Montgomery

We had a lovely late lunch at Azúcar, located on the grounds of the luxurious La Serena Villas, another special Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotel. We enjoyed the artistically decorated dining area with its enticing menu. We asked the friendly server to bring us some of his favorite dishes. I started our meal with a tangy margarita, which was the perfect accompaniment to crispy, house-made chips and tasty, chunky guacamole. 

This was followed by yummy blistered Shishito peppers served on an ajo (garlic) blanco-style puree, finished with house-made vinegar and bread crumbs. We also enjoyed charred escarole served with an Italian style salsa verde on a bed of leek puree. Our featured dish was succulent grande Iberico pork rack with roasted shallots on a bed of mostarda sauce (made of candied fruit and mustard syrup). The scrumptious vanilla bean pudding topped with whipped cream and served with warm churros was the perfect ending to our wonderful lunch.

Freddie’s Kitchen at The Cole Hotel

A bowl of French onion soup in a white crock from Freddie's Kitchen

A warm bowl of French onion soup is a treat at Freddie’s Kitchen. Photo by Sue Montgomery

After checking into our hotels we met a friend at Freddie’s Kitchen at The Cole Hotel, a newly remodeled small hotel. The atmosphere is fun and casual with food reflecting what the chef describes as “French California cuisine with a focus on France but an international flair.” Chef and owner Frederic Pierrel was born in Alsace, France, and studied cuisine in his native country. This is where he learned to love using seasonal ingredients as he does at Freddie’s. Appropriately, we all started our meals with savory French onion soup. My entrée was Australian barramundi al la plancha, which was delicious. (“Plancha” is a Spanish term meaning cooked on a very hot flattop grill.)  This special fish dish was flavorful but mild. The French-style dark chocolate mousse for desert was a wonderful cap to to an enjoyable meal.

Farm Palm Springs

A plate with a salmon and egg crepe on it topped by a salad

The salmon crepe at The Farm Palm Springs. Photo by Sue Montgomery

Early the next morning, three of us had breakfast at the Farm Palm Springs, a popular spot featuring farm-to-table Provencal dishes in an enchanting country patio setting.  We each ordered different varieties of crepes. I had a delectable crepe full of portobello and shiitake mushrooms, Gruyère cheese, and crème fraiche. It was truly heaven. One of my friends enjoyed a crepe bursting with salmon and spinach, while the other loved her sweet crepe filled with Nutella, chocolate, and strawberries. The atmosphere was warm and gracious. We will definitely return to this welcoming cafe, which is also open for lunch and dinner.

The Barn Kitchen at Sparrows Lodge

A plate of smashed cucumbers at Sparrows Lodge

The unique smashed cucumbers dish at Sparrows Lodge. Photo by Sue Montgomery

After a relaxing afternoon, we were mesmerized during dinner by the magical allure of the Barn Kitchen at Sparrows Lodge, another PSPSH hotel in a lovely setting with twinkling lights adding to the outdoor patio’s ambiance. Our meal began with cocktails and appetizers. We savored the beautifully presented hummus served with cucumber, Kalamata olives, pickled onion, and grilled pita. We also ordered smashed cucumbers, an intriguing dish enhanced by salsa, scallions, peanuts, sesame seeds, and festive cucumber flowers. I am a cucumber lover and this was the most creative presentation of the vegetable I’ve ever tried.

We each ordered a different entrée. My vegetarian dish was roasted organic cauliflower steak served with marble potatoes and topped with a tasty red pepper saffron sauce and shaved fennel. Kris adored her mole, which featured a half chicken smothered in a savory sauce with steamed rice and pickled onion, and our friend Kathy enjoyed the Baja striped bass on a bed of grilled sweet corn, summer squash, Italian peppers, and braised kale. As if we had room for more, we shared a truly decadent chocolate pot de crème made of a passion fruit gel and coconut streusel. (Kathy raved that this was one of the best desserts she had ever eaten.) The Barn Kitchen has an enticing menu of appealing, unique dishes and we all agreed that we would like to stay at the Sparrows Lodge and enjoy this wonderful restaurant again.

Three blonde women hold up their glasses to cheers at The Barn Kitchen's outdoor table

Friends enjoy the beautiful atmosphere of Sparrows Lodge. Photo courtesy of Sue Montgomery

These are just four of the many special restaurants in Palm Springs. Palm Springs is beckoning me to return for a week (or more) so I can stay in charming small hotels and enjoy different wonderful restaurants every day. I would not run out of an abundance of tempting choices.

Triangle Inn Palm Springs

“You have some queer friends, Dorothy.” – The Road To Oz, Frank Baum

Drumroll! The Dinah Weekend has returned! The largest lesbian/queer/non-binary party starts on September 29, and runs through October 3. Bonus: It’s celebrating its 30th birthday!

Check out the link above for the 411- they continue to add. But before you book a room, check out options at Palm Springs Small Preferred Hotels. Side effects of a boutique hotels: sleep better, quiet time when you need it, romantic time when you want it, and then the big party after a disco nap. It’s also less crowded than the big hotels, which means you are a bit safer.

If you check out lesbian events in Palm Springs, you’d get the impression that book clubs and hikes are the only strictly non-stick activities, but I am 100% certain lesbians are interested in some slammin’ party events (see any photo taken at The Dinah). After all, girls just wanna have fun.

Even “MeetUps” has nothing for lesbians. When I asked a few of my sapphic friends, they said they mostly hang out with the boys on Arenas, or at 1501 Gastropub which is neither straight nor gay, just cool. Which makes me think lesbians are woefully underserved in Palm Springs, and it’s time to step it up! (I have no suggestions, just a protest sign. I’m an activist running on empty for this one.)

The gay guys, on the other hand, have everything covered. From hotels, to restaurants, to bars and events. Their cup runneth over. So, here are some of the great spots for gay men here in Palm Springs.

Photo: Linda Milks

HOTELS that cater to gay men

INNDulge – Well-named and floating with hospitality, this clothing-optional resort is delightfully indulgent in all the best ways.

Hacienda at Warm Sands – A longstanding Palm Springs favorite of discerning men, this resort boasts beautifully lush and tropical landscaped grounds,

Vista Grande Resort – This was the first gay, clothing-optional property in Palm Springs and its testosterone-charged atmosphere makes you feel alive.

Triangle Inn Palm Springs – Small and intimate, the mid-century Triangle Inn (designed by Hugh Kaptor, no less!) offers serenity in the desert.

El Mirasol Villas – Built in the 1940s by Howard Hughes, El Mirasol Villas offer men a blend of Spanish style and bygone Hollywood.

Desert Paradise Resort Hotel –  A lovely luscious sanctuary that routinely attracts repeat guests (who often view the hotel as a second home).

All Worlds Resort – Palm Springs largest gay men’s resort has something for everyone.

Santiago Resort – High-end and all-inclusive, the clothing-optional Santiago Resort boasts the largest pool of any boutique hotel in town.

Descanso Resort, a newly refurbished, completely reimagined men’s resort brought to you by the guys of the Santiago Resort…with the all-inclusive services and care you expect.

And coming soon, another brother property, Twin Palm Resort. Watch for it!

You can also use the sort button on the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels website (I’ve already put in the search parameters for you. You’re welcome.)

La Dolce Vita Spa Entrance

Restaurants & Bars

All restaurants are all friendly, but this description cracks me up. Gay Desert Guide describes Rio Azul as a “Very gay tapas restaurant.” They have four-top swings at some of the tables, which is fun. It’s a great place to watch the Pride Parade too.

ON ARENAS

In Chicago there was a street lined with gay bars, just north of Belmont that we called “Boys Town”. Arenas is just like that. A small street packed with gay bars and restaurants. If you know where Lulu is, go east young man, away from Palm Canyon, and across Indian Canyon, where you will find party land. Not all of the gay establishments are on this street, but a good deal of them are. It is also a great place to shop for clothing. Please note that many of these places require proof of vaccination (smart!), so make sure you have it handy.

Bars/restaurants

Stacy’s Piano Bar

Chill Bar

Street Bar

Hunters Nightclub

Eagle 501

Blackbook Bar

Quadz

Stores

Bear Wear

GayMart

Division

Men’s Waxing

Rough Trade Leather and Gear

Off Arenas Bars and Restaurants

Oscars – Home of the Sunday night T-Dance.

Tool Shed – on Sunny Dunes

Q Trading Company – on Sunny Dunes where you can pick up a copy of local writer, David Eugene Perry’s book, Upon This Rock – a twisty, gay, thriller set in Orvieto, Italy.

Toucans Tiki Lounge

Beginning September 16 is Cinema Diverse, which is streaming with, it seems, a few drive-ins that are not included with the passes.

Lastly, BOOK FOR PRIDE NOW! Check out our resort hotels for great options. I’d hate to see you sleeping in my bushes. They’re not comfortable. I may or may not have first-hand knowledge.

“Too much of a good thing is wonderful.” — Liberace

When you Google “best gay cities,” my results did not include one single listicle mentioning Palm Springs. What? People, our entire city council is LGBTQIA, and from Wikipedia’s entry for Gay Village: “An estimated 33 to 50 percent of Palm Springs, California, are gay male or other parts of the LGBTQ community; this statistic makes them the largest percentage community in the US.”

In 2016, Palm Springs received a final score of 100 points in the Human Rights Campaign’s Municipal Equality Index Scorecard. Our city exceeded the highest possible final score of 100 with a raw score of 109, and we’ve kept that score through their last report of 2020.

Speaking of the ’20s, 100 years ago, Palm Springs began its journey as a playground for celebrities and the LGBTQ+ community thanks to Dr. Florilla White and her sister Cornelia. The two “independent and eccentric women” (code: lesbian) purchased the Palm Springs Hotel and spiffed it up a bit. Rudolph Valentino spent his second honeymoon there (it was escandalo!), and Greta Garbo demanded the premiere of Camille be held at the new Plaza Theater while she stayed at the hotel. Side note: if it weren’t for the founding mothers of Palm Springs (the White Sisters, Nellie Coffman, Lois Kellog —she was a wild one! — and Pearl McCallum McManus), it might still be a dusty little town. And the Cahuilla likely wouldn’t be where they are today without the 1950s all-women tribal council. Historically, in Palm Springs, men beat the drum of awareness while the women quietly made history. Sisters, amirite?

Liberace.

Palm Springs is so gay Liberace, Rock Hudson, Tab Hunter, Barry Manilow and gay icons Cher and Carol Channing had/have homes here. Not to mention the other “maybe they were, maybe there weren’t” plethora of stars. Although there is speculation, it doesn’t really matter, because Palm Springs has always offered personal privacy. No one is getting “outed” if they don’t want to be out.

Courtesy of CV Independent

In the 1980s, two anti-gay and AIDS-related bills were soundly trounced and, according to a 2017 article in Palm Springs Life, in 1991 club owner Gloria Green opened the first gay bar on Arenas Road, A Streetbar Named Desire (now known as Streetbar). I qualify that with the Palm Springs Life article because most accounts attribute the bar to Dick Haskamp and Hank Morgan, who apparently purchased it in the same year. So something is a little sketchy about the origins — however, Arenas would soon build up to become an all-gay city block with clubs and stores catering to gay men.

Pride was first celebrated in Palm Springs with a showcase called Sizzle. It wasn’t well received or advertised, and Sizzle fizzled out until 1992. By 1997, The Desert Sun estimated 30,000 people watched the (now) Pride parade.

Our gayness isn’t limited to Arenas. Oscar’s is alive almost every night with gay-leaning entertainment and Sundays is all about celebrating your gayness at the T-Dance. You can hear the party from blocks away.

We have so many drag queens they could hold court for an entire generation of royals, and they’re damn fine. Late night entertainment at The Copa and Toucans include long-running drag shows that pack the rooms, and drag brunches abound in our exceptionally inviting cozy town.

The San Francisco establishment of transgender performers AsiaSF chose Palm Springs as its second home. They opened just before the pandemic, and I’m told will reopen again in November — maybe December — of this year. I went to the opening in early 2020 (before you know what): these ladies are hot AF.

Some of the finest dining in Palm Springs is brought to you by gay restaurateurs. Roly China Fusion, Tropicale, Eight4Nine, Trio, PS Underground (an exciting take on dinner theater), The Purple Room (supper club), and 533 Viet Fusion to name just a few not on Arenas.

Desert Rose Playhouse is the one and only LGBTQ theater company and venue in the Coachella Valley. Now in Palm Springs proper at the old Zelda’s Nightclub space, they produce, support and elevate LGBTQ stories, actors, playwrights, and musicians. I have never been disappointed by their productions. So far this year I have seen The Great American Trailer Park Musical and Rocky Horror, and have tickets to see Hedwig and the Angry Inch. It’s a great space with a great vibe and the shows are delicious.

We have an LGBTQ+ community center, PFLAG (for supporters), and a retirement community for gays called Stonewall Gardens. We have two gay radio stations, the Gay Desert Guide, and the Palm Springs Cultural Center, with a mixture of artsy blockbusters and showcasing gay-themed films.

If you check out our website (already sorted for you!), you’ll find we have 11 resort hotels catering to gay men, some clothing optional. The Warm Sands area is generously dotted with gay boutique hotels.

One of my favorite things that hasn’t yet returned in the pandemic is our star drag queen Bella da Ball (aka Brian Wanzek) reading stories to kids at the Palm Springs Library. Bella even has her own star on our Walk of Stars.

There’s DAP, Desert AIDS Project, a terrific medical establishment that not only caters to gays living with AIDS but also administers to MediCal patients. I was on MediCal for a bit and they provide stellar care (I was sad when my insurance switched). They also run the resale stores Revivals which have terrific bargains on gently-used items, and some brand-new stuff too. Profits benefit DAP.

And of course there is the big event, Palm Springs Pride.

Some “must” events sent to me by Bella Da Ball:

November 1, 6 to 7 p.m.: George Zander Candlelight Vigil and March, 101 N. Museum Dr.

Beginning at the new downtown park (Museum Way and Museum Drive), this rally and march is in honor of George Zander. Six years ago to the day, George and Chris Zander were attacked in downtown Palm Springs, resulting in George’s death on December 10, 2015. This remembrance of George’s life keeps his memory alive, so that no other individual falls victim to a crime of hate.

November 7, 5 to 10 p.m.: Effen Vodka main stage, near the Hyatt Hotel on North Palm Canyon Drive. Party. Huge stage. Special video screens.

But wait, there’s even more eye candy than the parade! On November 5 and 6, enjoy the West Coast premiere of Global Rainbow by American artist Yvette Mattern. Specially designed lasers project a large-scale abstraction of a natural rainbow (the same colors in Gilbert Baker’s rainbow flag) celebrating the diverse LGBTQ+ communities and symbolizing hope and peace. Beamed high above Palm Canyon Drive at Amado Road, as far as the eye can see, until finally diminishing to a colorful glow over South Palm Canyon.  

Hitting the stage on November 5:

5:30 p.m. — Charles Herrera 

6 p.m. — Steven Michael’s Dance Machine, dancers, flaggers, drag

6:15 p.m. — Jason Stuart

6:30 p.m. — Shannon 

7:15 p.m. — Sassy Ross

7:30 p.m. — Jeanie Tracy

8 p.m. — Jody Watley

8:45 p.m. — The Perry Twins

The unadulterated joy and magic the Palm Springs LGBTQ+ community brings to our little town is unparalleled. That’s right, I said it: unparalleled.

Not gay? No one cares, we are a mecca for all who want to be included…unless you’re homophobic, then according to the website Abodo, you should vacation in Buffalo, New York.

See you at Pride!

Palm Springs’ newest boutique resort for men exceeded all of my expectations. 

Descanso Resort is a fully refurbished and thoughtfully reimagined Palm Springs paradise with a “California garden patio” motif that somehow manages to weave its way through every detail of your experience. And after my recent three-day staycation there, I’m almost giddy to report that it’s brimming with pleasant surprises.

Spoiler alert: if you want to first experience these surprises in person, you should stop reading here.

Gregory Douglass and Glen Nadeau at Descanso Resort. Photo credit: Gregory Douglass

Much like its brother Palm Springs property Santiago Resort, there is an immediate sense of familiarity as soon as you arrive. The property’s 16 charming suites wrap around you like a much-needed hug from a friend you haven’t seen in ages. The Descanso website proclaims General Manager Kent Taylor and his team “hold advanced degrees in pampering,” so you know you’re in for a treat.

If you check in before your room is ready, you’re actually in luck. Go ahead and lounge by (or in) their saltwater swimming pool, heated to a perfect 90 degrees at all times. You can also enjoy their saltwater spa, rinse down in the outdoor shower, or just retreat under the light mist of their outdoor cooling system. There’s even a communal fire pit to enjoy if the desert heat (or your fellow gaycationers) aren’t hot enough for you already.

The Descanso Resort’s pool area. Photo credit: Gregory Douglass

Every poolside guest lounger has a fresh beach towel, rolled up like a bright green tube pillow. You won’t need a swimsuit either, because clothing is optional here. The 24-hour cantina is always stocked with snacks and beverages — picture a perfect Arnold Palmer and various coffee options, depending on your taste. It’s a Type A personality’s paradise.

The Pamper Patrol (aka the Descanso team) will happily hold your bags while you are busy melting into your favorite new desert oasis. Once your room is ready, you’ll have forgotten you were even waiting for it.

As you might have guessed, my husband Glen Nadeau and I arrived an hour before our room was ready. As we lingered by the pool, I sensed an unpretentious sophistication that made me feel like I could finally take a breath. In English, the Spanish word “Descanso” means “break,” as in “you deserve a break,” so I’ve since learned that was exactly how I was supposed to feel.

Descanso guests can enjoy iced tea or lemonade throughout the day. Photo credit: Gregory Douglass

When we checked into our Balcony Suite, we were met with flush views of the majestic San Jacinto mountains and the Descanso’s magnificent landscaping, consisting of Mexican flame bushes, birds-of-paradise, lime trees, and vines that envelop the hotel’s exterior. Every detail of Descanso is old Hollywood architecture meets mid-century modern decor, but the landscaping is truly the focal point, serving you lush greenery that looks like it is painting an elegant white canvas. Various shades of green are the only “pop” colors that accent Descanso’s interior motif, echoing the symphony of greenery like a standing ovation.

The suite amenities include all you would expect of a place this deliberate — each room has a king-sized bed, Gilchrest & Soames luxury bath products, a mini portable fan, complimentary snacks and water, and a couch you can sleep on (should you have any expected — or unexpected — guests). There was even a “book” by the bed that opened to reveal a small treasure box containing some fun adult amenities for your (or his) pleasure.

The treasure box. Photo credit: Gregory Douglass

After settling into our room, it was time for a complimentary “stay & splash” poolside lunch, provided by Aspen Mills Bakery. We could have then meandered around the neighborhood on Descanso’s complimentary bicycles, exploring the many restaurants and shops in the Palm Springs Uptown District, but we decided to stay poolside to see what else we had in store.

It wasn’t long before someone from the Pamper Patrol circled around the pool, offering each guest a popsicle from a silver platter (literally and figuratively speaking) to accompany their retreat. Soon after, the same rotation served a tray of rolled up frozen washcloths that had been dipped in eucalyptus, and I spent 10 blissful minutes breathing in the cool arctic vapors.

Descanso Resort General Manager Kent Taylor. Photo credit: Gregory Douglass

As the sun changed position, so did the shade. But since Descanso’s lily-white umbrellas are also on wheels, the shade was always in reach. There’s even a bathroom within steps of the pool, with framed swimwear hanging on the walls (you can find this signature look in every bathroom at the resort). All of the property’s artwork is stunning, but the swimwear upstages its company because of its unexpected uniqueness, almost implying that bathing suits should remain a relic here.

When I finally dipped in the pool, it was difficult to get out. The salt water absolutely blankets you with minerals, acting like a natural moisturizer as opposed to the skin-drying effects of its evil stepsister (a.k.a. chlorinated water).

Once I retired to the outdoor saltwater spa, I had a simmering feeling that there were still subtle surprises around every corner. Sure enough, I looked down at the small rocks surrounding the tub and caught a glimpse of this one lone stone wearing a pair of painted underwear.

An unexpected rock at Descanso Resort. Photo credit: Gregory Douglass

As potential new friends began to get friendlier throughout the evening, I couldn’t wait for what other pleasant surprises the night would reveal. But that’s a story for another time.

Oh my goodness, October’s weather was exceptional, and it’s just going to be better in November. Unlike the majority of the United States, November in Palm Springs brings bright, bright, bright sunshiny days. Everyone is riding bicycles and walking because it’s just too gorgeous to be inside a car. The nights are cooler, but can also get a tad chilly, so make sure to pack a light jacket or sweater just in case. I don’t want you to catch cold — we’ve had enough catching things!

Of course, Pride is this month. The parade is on November 7, but there are tons of activities the week leading up to it. Really hope you booked earlier in the year, but if not there may still be some openings at our boutique hotels and resorts, so scurry on over to Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels to see what’s still available. Good luck!

And now, in no particular order, November’s events and happenings:

Courtesy of Hunters

Hunters is taking their entertainment, literally, to the sky. Airotic Soirée is a brand-new sensual burlesque-style circus cabaret combining the best of burlesque, cirque-style entertainment, and astounding acrobatics. Shows are scheduled every Friday and Saturday at 7 p.m. through the end of the year. It’s gonna be so hot you can leave your sweater at home.

The Best Shows in Town

Purple Room — Sunday is The Judy Show! Squee!

Melvyn’s at Ingleside Inn   Sunday Jams are back. $10. Make a reservation…it’s a hot ticket.

PS Underground — Rouge, Ami Kumar, Dirty Bingo, Cavern, and Bacon are the shows and dinners scheduled for November. A big congratulations to owners Michael and Dave who, after 25 years together, tied the knot. Mazel!

Oscar’s — Great Pride lineup: Bruce Vilanch and Poppy Champlin, Priscilla Presley, and more.

Toucans Tiki Lounge — Everything is dragtastic!

Cascade Lounge at Agua Caliente Casino Palm Springs has Jazzville, Latin nights, and comedy all month.

Keep your eye on Copa Nightclub. I hear Lipstick may be returning this month, along with Jason Weber in his 5:30 to 7:30 show Thursdays, replacing Mod Squad (which had replaced Jason Weber!). We’re hoping Mod Squad finds a new home…it’s a great show!

November 19 to 21: SoCal 356 Club’s Palm To Pines road trip for those with the need to…never mind, it’s a leisurely trip, no speed necessary.

Courtesy of Palm Springs Air Museum

For those with a need to speed, purchase a ticket for a warbird experience at Palm Springs Air Museum, where you get to ride in the warbird of your choice! Follow it up with the F-117 Stealth Fighter Experience in late November. This is your chance to see an F-117 Stealth Fighter #-833 up close and personal at the Palm Springs Air Museum. Each day will feature a 90-minute speaker engagement to enlighten the crowd on the historic aircraft. Purchase your tickets in advance from their website as space is limited. Note: these fighters are not usually on display.

Theater

November 4 to 21: Hedwig and the Angry Inch at Desert Rose Playhouse. I’ve got my tickets!

Tuesdays at 7 p.m.: Electricity at Oscar’s – I’ve see this two-man play, and it’s very good.

November 7 at Chill Bar: Jennifer Holiday — the original Dreamgirl. 

For car lovers: The 25th annual McCormick’s Palm Springs Exotic Car Auction on November 20, 21, and 22 will feature over 500 classic, exotic, sporty and high-end cars. Admission is free all day Friday; Saturday and Sunday are pay days.

Palm Springs Cultural Center

November 18: Get dressed in your best circus costume and head over to the Greatest Showman interactive event. Join us for cocktails at 6 p.m., with the DJ spinning the hits at 7 p.m. (We will DANCE!) Theater doors open at 7:30 p.m., with the singalong starting at 8 p.m.

November 19: Martinis and Moxie, a musical salute to Sinatra with special guests…some of whom had first-hand experience with the Chairman himself.

Photo credit: Lani Garfield

Pride

Above photo by Palm Springs resident Lani Garfield

Learn more about Palm Springs’ rich gay history, and the origins of Pride, here.

Have questions about this year’s big event? The official website has all the answers.

Some stand out events include:

November 5: Coming Out Celebration – A Night of a Hundred Stars

November 6: Skater Girlz Jam presented by Lesbo Expo. Cool event featuring women skateboarders with some great talent. 5 to 7 p.m. at PS Skate Park.

Third Eye Blind, Jody Watley, and A Flock of Seagulls are among the performers who will hit the stage at Pride — this great article from Palm Springs Life has the details.

All indoor venues require a vaccination card or a recent negative COVID-19 test, so be prepared and be safe. A mask is like a condom — it helps contain the spread of disease. And because life is a bit weird in a mask, it may help prevent pregnancy, too.

See ya in December!

It’s important that people stay safe and close to home during this unprecedented crisis — doing so slows down the spread of the COVID-19 coronavirus and reduces the risk for contagion. That’s why large gatherings have been suspended in California, and citizens are being advised to avoid non-essential travel.

We understand that people will have concerns about traveling for some time to come, especially in regards to getting on an airplane or cruise ship, and we want to make it clear that there have been no coronavirus cases linked to any of our more than 70 boutique hotels in Palm Springs. 

Please know that the health and safety of guests who stay at our Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels is — and always will be — our top priority. That’s why we are monitoring the latest news on the coronavirus, with our hearts going out to everyone affected.

Eventually, a road trip to Palm Springs may be a relaxing — and safer —alternative.

Once this passes and you feel confident traveling again, we hope you’ll consider Palm Springs for your first vacation destination. 

For those who are within driving distance — we’re looking at you, L.A., Phoenix, San Francisco, and Las Vegas — you can feel good about hitting the road and staying here in Palm Springs. All of our Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels are intimate, with most having around a dozen or so rooms, meaning guests don’t have to fear large gatherings (in some cases, you might go all day without seeing a fellow traveler!). 

From check-in to check-out, our hoteliers ensure that our guests have the best possible experience. One way they do this is by providing a clean environment — rooms, dining areas, common spaces, and bathrooms undergo a diligent cleaning at least once a day, with heavily-trafficked portions receiving special attention.

For those who may still be a little concerned about dining out, several of our hotels also have in-room kitchenettes and outdoor grills where you can whip up your own meals.

Late spring is when Palm Springs hits its peak — the weather is great and the pools are at just the right temperature. It may be the perfect time to treat yourself to a relaxing getaway, tailored to your comfort. Explore our hotels — we know you’ll find one that’s a good fit. We’ve got your stay. 

Modernism and technology have come together to offer a unique experience at The Cole Palm Springs. The hotel is operated by Sonder, a hospitality management company that utilizes an innovative approach here and in more than 40 cities worldwide.

Sonder was founded on the principle that you can get anything from your mobile phone. You can find rooms and even loft apartments for short-term rentals and make reservations, and are sent an access code on the day of arrival.

At The Cole Palm Springs, check-in time is 4 p.m., and you can come in and swim or find a quiet corner to read in the courtyard until your room is prepared. Once it’s ready, you will receive a text with a code that opens your room’s door. At The Cole, you are instantly transported back to the ’60s, with the rooms artfully decorated by design experts who have incorporated replicas of items that would have been used during the Modernism period.

As you look around the space, you will see a retro mini-bar refrigerator and Victrola Bluetooth stereo. Be sure to look out the window — you’ll likely have a magnificent view of our mountains, which proudly surround our beautiful valley.

The view of the pool from a room at The Cole Hotel in Palm Springs

A typical view from one of the spacious rooms at The Cole Palm Springs. Photo by Kathy Condon

What does a hotel managed by Sonder look like?

On the table on the far wall is a card with a QR code, which, when opened, provides you with several pieces of information, including the number to reach someone on the grounds (they are on call 24 hours) and a code for more towels. There’s also instructions for the television and coffee pot, a list of attractions you might want to check out during your stay in Palm Springs (we have much more happening than just playing golf and sitting around a swimming pool), and the menu and hours of operation for Freddie’s Kitchen at The Cole. By the way, locals are giving this on-site restaurant rave reviews for its excellent food.

There are a couple of things you also should be aware of when staying at The Cole: this is an adults-only hotel, dogs are not allowed, and there is a charge of $15 per day for parking.

A blue door

The Cole has several one-of-a-kind doors. Photo by Nadine Conger

Who developed Sonder?

Co-founder and CEO Francis Davidson’s vision was created over time. It began when he started managing apartments, and kept seeing the same patterns and issues repeating. By recording those issues and matching travelers’ needs, he was able to create a new plan for managing short-term rentals. Sonder was officially formed in Montreal in 2014, with the help of Martin Picard, now the company’s chief real estate officer.

Sonder’s mission is to “redefine hospitality by bringing exceptional stays everywhere,” and they are doing this by utilizing the technology of a mobile phone;  developing relationships with world-class architects and designers to ensure each space meets the established high standards; minimizing the company’s environmental footprint (for example, single-use plastic has been eliminated from all properties); and offering 24/7 support and easy check-in and check-out.

Palm Springs looks back at its history through Modernism Week each year. The Cole represents that period, with its décor that harkens back to the era. However, with the help of Sonder, it is among the most forward-thinking, technology-run hotels in the Coachella Valley.

The sign in front of The Cole Hotel in Palm Springs

Your sign that you’ve arrived at The Cole Hotel in Palm Springs. Photo by Nadine Conger

It’s February, and no matter how many days it happens to be, it’s always been short shrifted. I’d start a movement, “Equal Days for February,” but February doesn’t seem to care. Within those 28 or 29 days in February, we get three holidays, two of which are solely American: President’s Day, for fairly obvious reasons, and Groundhog’s Day, with Punxsutawney Phil (1886) as the oldest of the celebrated rodents; tied for second are Mickey and Minnie (1928), with Mighty Mouse (1942) rounding out the meese. It’s a word, look it up.

With the exception of a few countries, Valentine’s Day is celebrated worldwide. Some of the customs are different, like in Japan and Korea where the women are the gift givers (rude). In Finland, they celebrate friendship (yay!) and Bulgaria keeps it simple with couples sharing a glass of wine. 

Love is also in the air in Palm Springs, but that’s just a blip on the radar compared to the mack daddy of all our signature events, Modernism Week, running Feb. 13-23. People fly in from all over the world to celebrate the mid-mod aesthetic and participate in home and bus tours, watch movies, and listen to speakers. Last year, 130,000 people attended. Where do we put them all? The diehards stay in our fabulous small boutique hotels and resorts that were built during those days of yore. 

If you’re not into all that, we’ve still got non-Modernism stuff going on, so grab a cuppa whatever, and let’s go:

One and done events

Feb. 1: Soul Springs Festival, 1 – 6 p.m., Downtown Park, free. This vibrant celebration of soul and jazz music invites attendees to enjoy captivating live performances by top artists, along with an interactive Soul Music Sing-Along where everyone can join in on classic hits. The festival promotes a sense of community and connection, encouraging attendees to bring their lawn chairs and spend a memorable day with family and friends.

Dinner and a show 

Purple Room — Come play where the Rat Pack used to tear it up at this classy but fun hot spot on the southern end of the Palm Canyon strip, about two blocks past Sunrise Way/Lavergne. It’s a bit confusing on how to get there, but there’s what I call a “service road” that runs parallel to Palm Canyon. It’s just past the Saguaro; look for a sign that says “Trinidad Club.”   

PS Underground — Visit their website for non-modernism shows, but maybe check out Ponytails, Chiffon and Shangri La, Feb. 18 – 20. For those of you who are unaware, Palm Springs was the movie stand-in for Shangri La in quite a few movies, starting way back in the early 1900s. PS Underground is a great experience, with wonderful food and entertainment. By the time you leave, you will know everyone at your table, and likely more. 100% worth it. 

PS Air — It’s a restaurant/bar on a plane. Not a real one, but it feels like it. One of those big old airplanes that had an upstairs lounge where passengers could gather for cocktails and steak and lobster dinner (I don’t know how good it was. My family always went overseas by ship. Yes, I’m posh). PS Air takes you back to a time when flying was an “experience” and a way to travel. This year they have the Mid-Mod Boozy Brunch drag show on Feb. 16 and 23 “piloted” by charming and smooth-voiced Tod Macofsky with his crew of “stewardesses.” 

Oscar’s — Good food, great entertainment. Home of Sunday’s The Bitchiest Brunch, Oscar’s has an eclectic mix of entertainers that mostly land in the realm of queer in all sense of the word — strange and unusually odd (but fantastic) and often part of the rainbow. 

Dinner and dancing

Reforma — Inside the class one historic building known as the Jewel Box of the Desert. Enjoy dinner at La Cocina, dinner and dancing (separate) during Warehouse Wednesdays, Gasolina on Fridays, and Y2K AF on Saturdays. 

Sammy G’s — Good Italian food on the menu in the restaurant and twinkly courtyard. After dinner, on Fridays and Saturdays, take it upstairs to the lounge and dance the night away to the music of the 1970s and 80s, covered by excellent local band the Evaro Brothers.

Entertainment, a nosh, and cocktails

The Rock Gallery — New comedy club where the Mid-Century Modern Museum used to be, on Palm Canyon Drive.

V Wine Lounge and Martini Bar — You can still keep it in the mid-mod aesthetic by going to this terrific spot in the class one historic Hugh Kaptur Plaza. Right next to Koffi on Tahquitz, there’s plenty of parking, pinot, and performances by some of our terrific local artists. 

The Village Pub — Check it out during VillageFest. There’s always great music coming from their patios that makes you want to hit the dance floor. Lots of rooms to navigate —  always an adventure!

Drinks, dancing and drag

Copa Nightclub — Late night club with drag shows and more, right next to The Tropicale.

Toucan’s Tiki Lounge — The OG of drag clubs and dancing. If you don’t like drag, don’t go. ‘K?

That’s it so far for February, I have to go thrifting for my mid-mod aesthetic outfit for Modernism Week. See you on the streets!

Near downtown Palm Springs, California, the Korakia Pensione quietly reveals itself on South Patencio Road. 

As someone who lives in Palm Springs, even I was surprised this pensione — meaning a small hotel — was unknown to me until I discovered it through the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels website. 

Korakia is pronounced kor-a-kee-a. The name comes from the Greek word for “crow,” a bird abundant in the mountains of Greece. The hotel’s original name was Dar Marroc, but when Doug Smith, of Greek descent, became the owner in the late 1980s, he changed the name to Korakia Pensione. 

Once you enter the grounds, you will instantly see why Smith felt at home here. Olive trees surround the Moroccan-style architecture, and flowering bougainvillea winds its way up the beautiful arches. When painter Gordon Coutts built the property in 1924 as a hideaway, he brought with him décor reminiscent of his life in Tangier. 

The Marrakech Suite. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

Three-tier fountains grace the courtyard, and a spacious pool is heated to 94 degrees. Yes, you read it right. One of the luxurious amenities is the ability to swim in the middle of the winter under our beautiful Palm Springs starlit sky. 

After a swim, wrap yourself in a robe then find your way to one of the property’s many fire pits. People come here from all over the world, and you’re bound to find yourself sharing stories with other guests.

An extension of the inn

The silent screen actress J. Carol Naish owned the villa across the street from Coutts’ property, and after it was purchased in 1933, it became part of the pensione. The Mediterranean-style buildings and grounds have seamlessly been combined, offering 28 rooms on more than two acres. 

The Naish House. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

The courtyard serves many purposes

Surrounded by olive and fruit trees, the courtyard is the place to be for guests when it’s time to enjoy the breakfast provided by the pensione. Small tables allow you to have your coffee alone, or if you want to join others, moving tables is not a problem, so you can have robust conversations if you desire. 

Then in the afternoon, a lovely tea is served to guests, still providing another opportunity if you choose to engage in conversation with others. 

Tea is served. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

A recent addition to the hotel’s offerings is a Moroccan dinner catered by Eight4Nine, a popular local restaurant. Its success has even caught the staff off guard, so you will want to check their schedule and make reservations if you are in the area when this special evening is offered (which, at the time of writing this article, is once a month). 

Rent the venue for…

A corporate retreat

Recently, the entire space was rented for a corporate retreat — those were some lucky employees, though it may have been a tad hard to concentrate knowing there is a heated pool steps away. There are plenty of spaces for people to scatter during breaks or even to play bocce ball. Later in the evening, join colleagues around the firepit to watch a classic or foreign film on the outdoor screen.

Outdoor movie screenings are a benefit of staying at Korakia. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

To ensure you have the team’s full attention for the retreat, there is no WiFi, TV, or clocks to distract from the task at hand. This is a resort that believes if you want to refresh and renew, technology needs to be left behind.

Weddings

Are you planning a desert wedding? One spot that should be moved to the top of your list is the Korakia. The courtyard, already surrounded by olive trees and bougainvillea, is turned into a magical place, with more flowers added to the arched doors. You now have the perfect backdrop for your vows. 

Cocktail hour is by the fountain, which welcomes guests with rushing water. All around the pool, your friends and family can mingle and share stories about how your life touched theirs. 

The perfect wedding backdrop. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

The celebration doesn’t stop there. A short walk across the quiet street to the other section of the pensione brings you down a path set aglow with lanterns and candles to still another courtyard for your reception. This flat space is perfect for your festive tables. 

I love the idea of your cake on a small table near the firepit. Imagine the effect created in your photos, so the glow reflects in the nighttime sky as you cut your cake together. 

Photo shoots

If you want to do a Mediterranean photo shoot without the expense of flying to Europe, Korakia Pensione can fill that need. Remember, we talked about the olive trees and fountains, and oh yes, they have a spa too, which lends itself to luxury photos. 

Family reunions

I can only imagine getting an announcement from a relative that it’s been decided our next get together will be at the Korakia. Some caveats: children under 13 are not allowed at the resort, and your beloved dog must find another place to vacation.

An authentic experience

I recently interviewed Korakia General Manager Paulette Monarrez, and as our conversation was coming to a close, I asked how long she had been involved with the hotel. Her smile broadened as she said, “15 years.” I then asked what she was most proud of in her work here, and without a beat, she responded, “We have an all-women staff. Also, I appreciate that so much care has been given to preserving the buildings. Plus, authentic Moroccan and Mediterranean artwork in the rooms and throughout the grounds adds a special touch to the Korakia.”

Walking away, I smiled to myself. Touring one of our Palm Springs boutique hotels is always rewarding because they are all so different. My suggestion: Use the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels website to pick out your winter destination and call the hotel directly — they can assist in making the perfect accommodations for your desert stay. 

One of the hotel’s many fire pits. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

Holy Ned, October is jamming! We’ve got Modernism Week Preview plus Palm Springs Leather Pride. If neither of those float your boat, there’s HALLOWEEN! It’s a huge holiday here in Palm Springs, and Halloween on Arenas is sick (in the best way possible). Costumes are off the charts creative, and the whole town is one big party.  

And now that it’s cooling down, all of our venues are heating way up. Keep in mind many indoor events require a vaccination card and a mask. Hey, the world is a bit of a horror show these days, but Palm Springs knows how to be safe and party. 

So now, without further ado, say hello to October events:  

Jazzville Shows at Agua Caliente Casino Cascade Lounge  

MFUO Featuring Jacques Lesure — Thursday, October 7, 7 p.m. 

Rumproller Organ Trio at Jazzville Palm Springs — Thursday, October 14, 7 p.m. 

Dan Delgado Sextet — Thursday, October 21, 7 p.m. 

Agua Caliente Casino Caliente Comedy 

Craig Conant  — Friday, October 1, 8 p.m. 

Pablo Francisco Comedy — Friday, October 8, 8 p.m. 

Brian Scolaro — Friday, October 15, 8 p.m. 

Tom Arnold — Friday, October 29, 8 p.m. 

Lalo Guerrero Tribute Show — Thursday, October 28, 7 p.m. 

Cultural Center – Camelot Theatres 

Drag O Rama featuring Rosemary Galore
Sunday, October 3, 2:30 p.m. (repeating Sundays)
Tickets starting at $15

 

Presenting Drag O Rama

 

REPO! The Genetic Opera — special screening of the cult horror film
Thursday, October 7, 6 p.m. social hour, event at 7 p.m. 

Chip ‘N’ Dru: Our Favorite Sings
Saturday, October 9, 6 p.m.

Multi-talented singer Dru Rutledge and veteran Broadway pianist Chip Prince present Our Favorite Sings. Featuring a multi-genre selection of songs in the style of Rodgers and Hammerstein, Debussy, Puccini, Stephen Sondheim, Leonard Bernstein, Broadway, Opera, Top 40 chart toppers, and more!  

Martinis and Moxie: A Society Social
Friday, October 15, 6 p.m.

A “My Way” society revue celebrating the life and music of Frank Sinatra.  

2021 Arthur Lyons Film Noir Festival
Thursday, October 21, 7:30 p.m.

Founded in 2000 by the late mystery author and Palm Springs community leader Arthur Lyons, the popular Film Noir Festival includes an eclectic mixture of prestigious and obscure black and white B movies from the classic film noir period. The festival is known for unearthing and screening rare films, restored classics, and for the special appearances of the stars who were in them.  

The Purple Room 

Tuesdays: Rose Mallett 

Wednesdays: Michael Holmes and Darci Daniels 

Thursdays: Sharon Sills 

Fridays and Saturdays: Ticketed events 

Sundays: The Judy Show   

PS Underground 

That’s Amore, an Italian feast set to music.
Saturday, October 2, 7 p.m. 

Gospel Brunch featuring great music and Keisha D.
Sunday, October 3, 11 a.m. 

Ovation! A Jazzed Up Sunday Brunch
Sunday, October 10, 11 a.m. 

Death by Cheese, a ghoulishly cheesy Sunday brunch.
Sunday, October 24, 11 a.m.  

420 Bank Dispensary and Lounge 

Cheech Meet & Greet
Friday, October 1, 3 p.m. 

Kottonmouth Kings with DLOC
Saturday, October 23, 9 p.m. 

Rabbit Country
Friday, October 15, 6 p.m. 

Open Mic Night
Thursdays — October 7, 14, 21 

Oscar’s House Parties 

Saturdays: Mimosa Men (Brunch) 

Sundays: Bitchiest Brunch 

Sundays: World Famous T-Dance  

Oscar’s Special Events 

Edie Las Vegas Showgirls: Unleashed (ticketed event) — Saturday, October 2, 7 to 9 p.m. 

Sandra Bernhardt — Monday, October 4 and Tuesday, October 5

Remembering The Golden Girls — Wednesday, October 6

An Evening With Cameron Ross — Thursday, October 14

Melissa Manchester outdoor concert — Thursday, October 21 and Friday, October 22

Theater 

Desert Rose Playhouse Presents Xanadu 

Thursday to Sunday, through October 17 

(Note: So far their season has been spectacular!)  

Palm Canyon Theater 

Sordid Lives — Through October 3 

Shrek The Musical — Beginning October 22 

More options 

Wind and Wine Paint Party
Saturday, October 16, 11 a.m.
Palm Springs Windmill Tours
Wine glass painting class and Windmill Tour  

Paint Splatter at Superbloom Studios
Thursday, October 14, 6 p.m.
Starts at $150.00  

The Gem Show at Palm Springs Convention Center
October 21 through 24   

Modernism Fall Preview
October 14 through 17
 

Halloween 

Palm Springs Cultural Center 

Jazzville Creepy Cocktail Party
Sunday, October 31, 3 p.m. 

Cinema Bizarro: Best of Retro Cartoon Halloween Specials
Sunday, October 31, 1 p.m.  

Jazzville Presents The Jazz Cartel Halloween Special
Sunday, October 31, 5 p.m. 

Hocus Pocus hosted by the Sanderson Sisters
Sunday, October 31, 5 p.m.

A screening of Hocus Pocus with special guests the Sanderson Sisters. Kids receive a (kinda) real magic wand from the spooky woods of Salem.  

Zombie Burlesque Cocktail Party
Sunday, October 31, 6 p.m.  

The Three Michaels playing the Halloween score live, plus private party
Sunday, October 31, 8 p.m. 

An ode to John Carpenter’s Halloween with the musical score, scares, and skits performed live in front of an abbreviated version of the film projected on the big screen. 

Dirty Little Secrets Presents Shock Theater Spooktacular
Sunday, October 31 8 p.m.

California’s longest running burlesque and variety show. From zombies to fire performers, this eclectic shock theater of sensational striptease will keep you laughing and howling all night! 

PS Underground 

BITE – a bloody vampire dinner
October 26, 27, 28, 31, 7 p.m. 

Halloween on Arenas Road – The Queen Of All Halloween Parties
The party starts at 4 p.m. and goes until 11 p.m.. Take an Uber/Lyft, parking will suck, and you’ll likely get pretty boozy. There’s too much to talk about, so I’m just sending you to the link. Prizes up to $1,800! 

For Gay Men Only

The Dirty Show with Skyler Gentry
Wednesday, October 6, 7 p.m.

$25 includes complimentary booze, snacks, pre-show and post-show party after every performance. The venue is outdoors with spaced seating. 

Hot Uncle at the Barracks
Saturday, October 16, 9 p.m.  
 

Palm Springs Leather Pride 2021: Unlocked: Full Release
Begins October 26 and runs through October 31. Multiple venues, starting at Eagle 501 bar.  SO MANY EVENTS! Event packages (too easy) here. Need some leather? Try Gear and Rough Trade Gear. 

That’ll do it for October. Don’t forget to shop and stay local. See you in November!