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October was fabulous, but it was just the opening act to what we call “season” in Palm Springs. Not “the season,” just “season.” Batman knows.

November days are sunny but not too hot, and the nights are cool, but not cold. Not only is it great hiking weather, it is also excellent pool weather — the sun is warm and the air is cool, kinda like Hawaii without getting spit on by rain. Our streets are bustling day and night, and you’d be wise to make a reservation before going out to dinner at one of our many restaurants. It’s the weather that puts what we call “season” here in Palm Springs into full swing.

We’ve got BIG events, theater, music, tucked away places to try, and some brand new exciting night clubs and restaurants. I don’t want to keep you all day, so let’s go!

Events

Nov. 4-6: Pride — This link takes you to Gay Desert Guide’s links to Pride events. If you enjoy being confused and confounded, you can go here.

Nov. 6: Pride Parade

Nov. 11-13: Women’s Jazz Festival at the Palm Springs Convention Center

Nov. 18-21: JOGS Palm Springs Gem & Jewelry Show — The JOGS Gem & Jewelry Show is one of the largest jewelry trade shows in the Americas, bringing together a variety of manufacturers, wholesalers, and brands. IYKYK.

Nov. 19: Props and Hops Craft Beer Festival — At the Palm Springs Air Museum, from 1 to 6 p.m. Get buzzed on land and buzz around in the sky in a warbird. Tons of food and entertainment.

Pride brings everyone out to Palm Springs. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

Ongoing music and libations

Melvyn’s — At the Ingleside Inn … so old school Palm Springs you’ll squee. Celebrities often sit in at the piano bar. There’s GREAT music from Mikael Healy all through the week, and the Sunday Jam is not to be missed, with all of the best musicians P.S. has to offer.

Palm Springs Cultural Center — It’s not just movies! Upstairs (I think they’re calling it Come On Up?) during the week expect an eclectic mix of styles from local musicians.

V Wine Lounge 

The Purple Room — Open every day except Monday (and who knows, maybe they’ll open on Mondays again during season).

PS Underground — It’s pricey, but definitely a one-of-a-kind experience and totally worth every simoleon.

Oscar’s — Some great shows coming up, and if I can urge you to go see at least one thing there, please let it be Mid-Century Moderns.

Theater

Dezart Performs (Choir Boy is an official Pride event)

Desert Ensemble Theatre (at PSCC, good yet unusual theater)

Palm Canyon Theatre

Hooch-y hideaways  

Small and intimate spots to get away from the crowds.

The Tailor Shop

Seymours

La Boisson (at Fleur Noire Hotel)

Le Fern, 411 E. Palm Canyon Dr. (4-9pm 7 days a week)

The Front Porch

Del Rey (at Villa Royale)

PS Air

Welcome to La Boisson. Photo courtesy of Fleur Noire Hotel

Outdoor activities

Modern and More Bike Tours — You need your own bike, but if you’re staying in a boutique hotel, chances are they’ve got one for you. This is not for kids, it’s all about history and architecture and is operated by Brennan, one of our Modernism Bus Tour guides. All quiet streets, no hills, constant sunshine, and very little traffic. Even novices will enjoy this educational ride — however, people with back problems may not. Know thyself before you book.

Historic Walking Tours from the Palm Springs Historical Society — Good luck trying to figure out which one to book. I want to go on ALL of them.

MOGO Silent Disco — Dance like nobody’s watching down the streets of Palm Springs. Everyone gets their own headset and is jamming to the same tune on this dancing tour. Outrageous outfits are encouraged, and a little stamina (60 minutes of boogie is a workout!) required.

NEW!

Sancho’s — 411 E. Palm Canyon, Palm Springs.

Coming soon

Reforma Night Club (Nov. 4)

Clandestino

Churrasco Brazilian Steakhouse (December 2022)

Thanksgiving

Alert! Apparently there’s a turkey shortage, which I find weird. Have you ever been to Wisconsin? They’re all over the road. OpenTable put together a great list of every restaurant in the Coachella Valley serving up the remaining turkeys. Most of the Palm Springs options are on page 2, and include Melvyn’s at Ingleside Inn, Azucar at La Serena Villas, and Del Rey at Villa Royale.

See you next month!

The elegant dining room at Melvyn’s. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

Did you know that Palm Springs is internationally famous? Well, it is. Since 2006, people from all over the planet have been coming to Palm Springs during the month of February for the banging party we call Modernism Week. It’s like the United Nations all up in here.  

Before the big event, Modernism Week holds a four-day preview in October called Modernism Fall Preview (a.k.a. Mini-Mod Week), running from October 14 through 17. It’s jam-packed with loads to do — over 50 events!  

Modernism Week and Mini-Mod Week are so popular the best events sell out the same day they go on sale. So unless some fabulous bit of wizardry transpires (it might, Palm Springs is magical), forget about Sunnylands and Frank Sinatra’s Twin Palms Estate Tour. There’s plenty left to see though, from significant mid-century modern home tours to architectural double decker bus tours. 

You can dress as you like, but a lot of people choose to pull out their pedal pushers and fedoras — whatever it takes to achieve that retro look. During Mini-Mod Week, the town takes on that old-timey feel of the ’50s and ’60s.

There are some cool cocktail-style events, but those sell out pretty fast. One of my very favorite supper clubs, PS Underground, has a brand new show for this year called Beatnik. Hurry and book, their shows are always outstanding. 

Even if you miss out on your favorite events, there’s still the main event at the Palm Springs Convention Center where you can browse everything mid-century modern, including art, furniture, and lighting. You can find a list of exhibitors here. 

If you’re the curious type like me, or a little iffy on modernism, this article breaks down mid-century modern art for you. The same with architecture here. 

Friday night is the big opening night party for the Modernism Show and Sale. Tickets are $75 in advance and $85 at the door. A purchase to the opening night party gives you access to the show on Saturday and Sunday. 

Skipping the party? (You’re gonna say “no” to a party?!) You can still buy a ticket for Saturday and Sunday that will cost you one Jackson (soon to be Tubman!) and gets you in both days so you can shop ‘til you bop later on that evening. 

Whether you do or don’t plan on going to the Modernism Week preview, but love the vibe of the mid-mod experience, we have mid-century modern hotels for the complete experience. There are 25 of them, all with great amenities — learn more about these fabulous spots here. 


The Purple Room, a Rat Pack-inspired supper club, has some of the finest entertainment in town. Here are the weekend shows during Modernism Preview:  

October 14: Sharon Sills (every Thursday) 

October 15: Branden and James — vocals and cello performing the Lady Gaga songbook 

October 16: Branden and James  — vocals and cello performing the Lady Gaga songbook 

October 17: The Judy Show (my favorite show in town! Every Sunday.) 

Also, check out V Wine Lounge, where the vibe is so retro you’ll squee. 

By the way, the bus tours are hella fun. I am a tour guide assistant and even from my view (I sit in the bottom of the bus, you’ll be on top — bring sunscreen and hold onto your hats!) it’s a fun and informative 2-and-a-half hour ride. 

Hope to see you there, and let’s go retro! 

What do you think of when planning a visit to Palm Springs?  Of course, I envision gorgeous, soaring palm trees and dramatic mountain vistas highlighted by an almost endless, glorious, radiant sun. Upscale unique shopping and fascinating museums are also on my to-do list. And then there is that stunning trip up the mountainside on the one-of-a-kind Palm Springs Aerial Tramway.

I think of all these attractions, but mostly I think of the charming boutique hotels and also the beautifully presented dishes offered by a wide variety of excellent restaurants.

Kris, a fellow adventuresome travel writer, and I recently visited Palm Springs and focused on the small hotels and food. We both stayed in different Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels — I was at The Muse, where I had a modern comfortable suite and was happily entranced by the cheerful colors and sparkling pool with floating flamingoes. Kris stayed at the Lucille Palm Springs, a Spanish Revival property featuring lush, soothing surroundings.  

In a future article I will focus on these hotels and also on the The Velvet Rope, where we enjoyed touring rooms focused on famous celebrity visitors to Palm Springs. But now I want to share the great restaurants we visited. I’ve visited Palm Springs quite a few times and enjoyed many fabulous restaurants, but this time we mainly dined at places new to us, and they were all outstanding.

Azúcar at La Serena Villas

A plate of Shishito peppers at Azúcar at La Serena Villas

Shishito peppers are a great addition to any meal at Azúcar. Photo by Sue Montgomery

We had a lovely late lunch at Azúcar, located on the grounds of the luxurious La Serena Villas, another special Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotel. We enjoyed the artistically decorated dining area with its enticing menu. We asked the friendly server to bring us some of his favorite dishes. I started our meal with a tangy margarita, which was the perfect accompaniment to crispy, house-made chips and tasty, chunky guacamole. 

This was followed by yummy blistered Shishito peppers served on an ajo (garlic) blanco-style puree, finished with house-made vinegar and bread crumbs. We also enjoyed charred escarole served with an Italian style salsa verde on a bed of leek puree. Our featured dish was succulent grande Iberico pork rack with roasted shallots on a bed of mostarda sauce (made of candied fruit and mustard syrup). The scrumptious vanilla bean pudding topped with whipped cream and served with warm churros was the perfect ending to our wonderful lunch.

Freddie’s Kitchen at The Cole Hotel

A bowl of French onion soup in a white crock from Freddie's Kitchen

A warm bowl of French onion soup is a treat at Freddie’s Kitchen. Photo by Sue Montgomery

After checking into our hotels we met a friend at Freddie’s Kitchen at The Cole Hotel, a newly remodeled small hotel. The atmosphere is fun and casual with food reflecting what the chef describes as “French California cuisine with a focus on France but an international flair.” Chef and owner Frederic Pierrel was born in Alsace, France, and studied cuisine in his native country. This is where he learned to love using seasonal ingredients as he does at Freddie’s. Appropriately, we all started our meals with savory French onion soup. My entrée was Australian barramundi al la plancha, which was delicious. (“Plancha” is a Spanish term meaning cooked on a very hot flattop grill.)  This special fish dish was flavorful but mild. The French-style dark chocolate mousse for desert was a wonderful cap to to an enjoyable meal.

Farm Palm Springs

A plate with a salmon and egg crepe on it topped by a salad

The salmon crepe at The Farm Palm Springs. Photo by Sue Montgomery

Early the next morning, three of us had breakfast at the Farm Palm Springs, a popular spot featuring farm-to-table Provencal dishes in an enchanting country patio setting.  We each ordered different varieties of crepes. I had a delectable crepe full of portobello and shiitake mushrooms, Gruyère cheese, and crème fraiche. It was truly heaven. One of my friends enjoyed a crepe bursting with salmon and spinach, while the other loved her sweet crepe filled with Nutella, chocolate, and strawberries. The atmosphere was warm and gracious. We will definitely return to this welcoming cafe, which is also open for lunch and dinner.

The Barn Kitchen at Sparrows Lodge

A plate of smashed cucumbers at Sparrows Lodge

The unique smashed cucumbers dish at Sparrows Lodge. Photo by Sue Montgomery

After a relaxing afternoon, we were mesmerized during dinner by the magical allure of the Barn Kitchen at Sparrows Lodge, another PSPSH hotel in a lovely setting with twinkling lights adding to the outdoor patio’s ambiance. Our meal began with cocktails and appetizers. We savored the beautifully presented hummus served with cucumber, Kalamata olives, pickled onion, and grilled pita. We also ordered smashed cucumbers, an intriguing dish enhanced by salsa, scallions, peanuts, sesame seeds, and festive cucumber flowers. I am a cucumber lover and this was the most creative presentation of the vegetable I’ve ever tried.

We each ordered a different entrée. My vegetarian dish was roasted organic cauliflower steak served with marble potatoes and topped with a tasty red pepper saffron sauce and shaved fennel. Kris adored her mole, which featured a half chicken smothered in a savory sauce with steamed rice and pickled onion, and our friend Kathy enjoyed the Baja striped bass on a bed of grilled sweet corn, summer squash, Italian peppers, and braised kale. As if we had room for more, we shared a truly decadent chocolate pot de crème made of a passion fruit gel and coconut streusel. (Kathy raved that this was one of the best desserts she had ever eaten.) The Barn Kitchen has an enticing menu of appealing, unique dishes and we all agreed that we would like to stay at the Sparrows Lodge and enjoy this wonderful restaurant again.

Three blonde women hold up their glasses to cheers at The Barn Kitchen's outdoor table

Friends enjoy the beautiful atmosphere of Sparrows Lodge. Photo courtesy of Sue Montgomery

These are just four of the many special restaurants in Palm Springs. Palm Springs is beckoning me to return for a week (or more) so I can stay in charming small hotels and enjoy different wonderful restaurants every day. I would not run out of an abundance of tempting choices.

A large table bought at an estate sale and rejection of a lease for space changed the trajectory of two Palm Springs restaurant owners’ lives. Mindy Reed, owner of Zin Restaurant, and Willie Rhine, an owner of Eight4Nine and 1501 Uptown Gastropub, prove it is important to pay attention to the little things.

When Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels asked me to interview these two prominent people in our community, I jumped at the chance. Here are their stories:

Mindy Reed 

Mindy was born in Michigan but moved to Alabama, where she lived for 18 years. When asked how she ended up in Palm Springs, she replied, “I got married, and we left Alabama and moved to Joshua Tree on acres of land surrounded by the beauty of the desert. I happily was a stay-at-home mom and raised my children, surrounded daily by the stunning landscape.”

Working in Palm Springs

When her children went to school, “I wanted something to do, so I headed to Palm Springs,” Mindy said. “I found a waitress job at what was then known as Chillers, recently called Moxie.” She enjoyed the work and appreciated the people, and ended up staying there for five years. When a casino job came along, Mindy applied and ended up being a cocktail waitress there for 10 years, before moving on to the Chophouse and then AJ’s.

“Located next to Sammy G’s was a small space that became available,” Mindy said. “After thinking about it, I made a plan to open a sandwich-to-go shop. By mortgaging my house, I had all the paperwork done. Then, much to my disappointment, the owner turned me down. He felt I did not have enough experience to make it work.”

The urge to own a place didn’t go away

Directly across the street, another space, once occupied by Jimmy’s Kitchen News Café, became available. “With a location on the corner of Arenas and South Palm Canyon Drive, I could see it was a great location,” Mindy said. “This time my offer went through, and work began while I maintained my position at AJ’s.” The origin of the name has a nice twist — they had no liquor license, so only wine could be served. The name decided on was Zin American Bistro, since they wanted to keep an American bistro feel, and Zinfandel grapes thrived in the United States.

Mindy Reed. Photo by Gregg Felsen/Visit Palm Springs

Expanding her empire

Zin flourished, and when the beauty supply store next door closed, Mindy started thinking about expansion. “I got the space,” she said. “The wall was knocked down, enlarging the restaurant. Then by 2009, the itch began. I wanted to do something different. The space next door opened on Memorial Day 2009, under the name Zini Café Mediterraneo, Aliante, and finally we settled on Revel House, painting the picture of fun and partying.”

Before heading to Europe for a trip, Mindy received an offer for Revel House. She turned it down, but “reconsidered when I came back,” she said. “I was delighted to accept his offer, which was exactly the price I determined would entice me to sell.” She kept the chef, and was able to start offering catering services. That’s not the only change, she added. “With the help of my partner, we are expanding Zin’s wine list and looking forward to doing wine dinners and adding beer pairings,” Mindy said.

I asked Mindy, “You are known for your generosity to the community. What compels you to be such a supporter?” She replied, “Kathy, this community supported me when I just starting out, and they haven’t stopped. Without people helping at every stage, I wouldn’t be sitting here talking to you in Zin, which became part of my reality in 1992.”

Willie Rhine  

With an 8th-grade education, Willie Rhine learned to listen to his intuition long ago. After years of construction work, Willie took his skills and developed 100 Top Hats Playhouse, where he served as director and producer for 13 years. Then he realized he had to close it, facing the fact that he had run out of money.

Needing work, he applied for a job at Cheeky Monkey, on the corner of Sunrise and Ramon. He stayed there for two years, serving mainly fish and chips and cider. He left for Le Vallauris Restaurant, and within five years, he moved up the ranks to maître d and head of catering at this fine-dining French restaurant.

His next stop was Piero’s Acqua Pazza in Rancho Mirage, where he was hired as manager and moved up to general manager within two months. When Barbara and Jerry Keller decided to open Lulu’s California Bistro in downtown Palm Springs, they asked Willie to go with them.

A catering gig changed his life’s path  

Lulu’s does many catering events, and was hired for the wedding of John Paschal. John took notice of Willie, and later approached him about opening his own restaurant.

With a partnership agreed upon, the search for space began. Willie had learned through his positions what the need was in Palm Springs. Each place he worked served a different client. What if they had a space large enough to put all of these needs — corporate meeting spaces, weddings, intimate dining — under one roof?

It wasn’t an easy place to find, so it took a while. Then, Willie walked into a building serving as a consignment shop, originally built as a post office, at 849 N. Palm Canyon Drive.

John believed in Willie’s vision, and the space was named Eight4Nine after its address. This was a huge place to furnish, and once again, Willie’s vision not only seemed practical, but was also a great idea and inexpensive to implement.

Willie Rhine. Photo courtesy of Willie Rhine

Remember at the beginning of this article, I said a large table bought at an estate sale changed the trajectory of Willie’s life? Willie said, “Let’s buy furniture at estate sales and paint it all white and use it throughout the entire restaurant.” Thus, that large table he stored for years was painted white, and now serves as a communal space for dining.

All the white furniture in the other rooms is a result of Willie’s enjoyment of perusing garage and estate sales, with the exception of the white furniture seen when entering the restaurant, which was made per Eight4Nine’s specifications.

Today, Willie oversees the restaurant operation, and John is running the kitchen with no executive chef. They continue to ensure that each one of us who dine there can get the same quality food and service we have come to expect when we bring guests to Eight4Nine.

Not enough to do? Let’s start two new restaurants 

Willie had been working with Chad Gardner, who owns 533 View Fusion and Roly China Fusion, at various catering events. They saw that the space at the defunct Draughtsman next to Arrive was vacant, and after a tour of the place, they were enthralled with the walls that opened to the outside and views from the outdoor patios. They decided to form a partnership and start another restaurant, again named after its address: 1501 Uptown Gastropub.

Today, the restaurant is thriving and equally attracting lunch and dinner guests, who come for the ambiance and once again the outstanding cuisine.

Willie and Chad’s partnership went so well that they recently opened Willie’s Restaurant in Rancho Mirage. When I smiled and asked, “Why was it named Willie’s?” he laughed and said, “We thought we were so smart we could name all the restaurants after their addresses. Then we learn that the new building’s address was 69830 CA-111. Thus, that wouldn’t work, so since we just kept calling it Willie’s, the name stuck.”

Willie believes he would not have accomplished what he has without the community supporting him in his theater days, during his serving jobs, and now at his restaurants. “I don’t look at giving to the community as an obligation,” he said. “It gives me great pleasure to give back to the community that supported me.”

Mindy and Willie are the spirit of Palm Springs 

After thinking about these two interviews, there are some things very clear in my mind. These are wonderful individuals who use their skills and intuition to build their businesses versus relying on educational degrees. Both Mindy and Willie learned from their own serving days what good customer service looks like and make it clear to all under their employ that the highest serving standards must be upheld. Without excellent food, people will not come back — I can assure you will not be disappointed in a meal at any of the restaurants mentioned above.

Finally, don’t you find it interesting that Mindy Reed and Willie Rhine’s thriving restaurants were created by people who have lived and worked in Palm Springs for many years? Their generosity, including to the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels, is impeccable. Next time you are going out to dinner, we encourage you to support these restaurants by making a reservation and dining at places that firmly have their roots planted in Palm Springs.

Having lived in Palm Springs for 13 years, I must admit to passing by The Skylark on North Palm Canyon Drive without noticing it. But now, after attending the official reopening of the boutique property, it is a place I will go to often. Let me share what I discovered about this Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotel.

A revitalized space

An Airstream trailer at Skylark Hotel Palm Springs used as a registration desk

The one-of-a-kind registration desk at The Skylark. Photo by Kathy Condon

Walking into the courtyard of the The Skylark, I marveled at the giant trees dotting the space with benches and, to my delight, fire pits, which I feel bring a cozy, welcoming feel to any space. On the other side of the courtyard, the unusually large pool would have been the perfect place to take a nighttime dip, but I was wearing casual business attire, so it was not to be this evening.

Since I was expecting the registration area to be right in as you come off the street, I was surprised to instead find a restaurant, Lost Property Palm Springs. Seeing people walk down a path nearby, I also wandered down it and discovered, much to my surprise, an Airstream trailer surrounded by lovely patio furniture and bicycles under a fun mid-century mural painted on the cinder block wall. I went to the window, expecting it to be a bar, but found the reception desk.

I asked owner Amitesh Damur why an Airstream trailer was used for a registration area. He smiled broadly and responded, “Well, there is a story. When we decided to make room for the restaurant Lost Property, it made the most sense to have the restaurant on North Palm Canyon, both for its recognizable address and accessibility for locals that we hope will frequent it. We had space near our parking lot, and I thought, ‘Why not find an Airstream trailer to add a unique touch?'” It wasn’t easy to track one down, he added, but once secured, “the creative juices flowed, and it now has a permanent resting spot.” It makes people smile as they enter the gate, and the patio furniture surrounding it is a perfect place to relax any time of day.

Room for everyone

A king-sized bed inside a bedroom at Skylark Hotel in Palm Springs

Comfortable beds are the centerpieces of rooms at The Skylark. Photo by Kathy Condon

Rooms surround the courtyard and pool, providing easy access to amenities like The Skylark Bar. This is a lovely, spacious area with tables and a long bar offering any libation you desire. On reopening night, a DJ spun upbeat music. During your stay, a phonograph with vinyl records helps you get into the mid-century spirit. It’s a great place for gathering with friends and family, or, if you are here for a corporate retreat, an excellent training space with a large screen suitable for any presentation.

The Skylark has 28 rooms, with the upper level boasting upgraded deluxe accommodations with lovely remodeled bathrooms, luxury bath products, refrigerators, and comfortable chairs. Leaning on the railing and observing the moonlit courtyard and pool from the patio right outside your second-floor room is a delight. While the second floor requires walking up steps (there is no elevator), the scene below is worth the extra effort.

FYI: You must leave Fido home with the grandparents. Animals are not allowed in the hotel.

Must-try eats

A lobster roll and container of French fries with gravy on a gray plate

Delicious lobster rolls are on the menu at Lost Property Palm Springs. Photo by Kathy Condon

Yes, having a coffee pot in your room is helpful, but what if you want something with a little more kick or a specialty coffee drink? No problem. All you have to do is wander down to the restaurant, Lost Property Palm Springs, and you can order exactly what you want. Or, if you are more adventurous, let the staff serve you one of their specialty drinks. It opens at 7 a.m., and seating is available inside and outside. More than likely, operation partner Rhino Williams will greet you as you walk in. The glass case displays a variety of specialty pastries — just so you know, it is fairly challenging to find a good pastry in Palm Springs, but theirs are superb.

After having lunch at Lost Property and sampling their food, I can only say, “Oh my.” Everything I tasted was superb. The big news is that Maine lobster rolls will always be on their menu. Residents lined up when the Lobster Truck rolled into town, but now you don’t have to — these are equally as good, piled high with fresh lobster flown in regularly.

There is also other good news: if you are out on a day trip and come back to Palm Springs late, it is one of the few restaurants open until 11 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. Be sure to try one of their specialty craft cocktails. While animals cannot stay at the hotel, they are allowed on the restaurant’s outside patio.

One last thing: when you drive down North Palm Canyon Drive, you can’t miss The Skylark. The whole entrance has a beautiful wall with our famous breeze blocks. With its on-site restaurant, this hotel is one of the crowning gems in Palm Springs’ wonderful collections of boutique hotels. I’ll meet you there — yes, as a local, I will be going to Lost Property frequently.

Missed Part 1? Read it here.

Welcome to summer in Palm Springs! This is long — lots to share! — so without further ado, the smaller resorts with restaurants:

Night falls on Arrive Palm Springs. Photo credit: Visit Palm Springs

Arrive Palm Springs — This resort is built to be social, and the poolside restaurant serves snacks and libations including “Poptails” — icy alcoholic popsicles. They used to have another restaurant, but sadly, the local favorite for lunch closed. However, you’ll barely notice the temps when you walk a few storefronts away to the hotel’s coffee shop, Cartel Coffee Lab, and ice cream parlor, Ice Cream & Shop(pe). Just a titch further is 1501 Gastropub by local restaurateurs Chad Gardner and Willie Rhine. Directly across the street from the resort is Sandfish Sushi and Whiskey Bar, which is as trendy as it sounds.

The view from above Fleur Noire. Photo credit: Visit Palm Springs

Fleur Noire Hotel — Initially called Burket’s Trade Winds Hotel, the new owners have reimagined the 1940s hotel and brought its original (heated) pool back to life. Surrounded by lush desert landscaping, the Spanish-style property has 21 casitas, studios, and standard rooms — all eclectic and all designed by Chris Pardo and wallpaper designer Ellie Cashman.

The clubhouse is open daily from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., with a communal pantry, lounge seating, and working and dining areas. They don’t actually have a restaurant, but Rick’s Desert Grill is its next door neighbor. They do, however, have a rosé and champagne speakeasy called La Boisson that will also bring your chilled libation poolside. You can literally have rosé all day.

Welcome to Holiday House. Photo credit: Holiday House

Holiday House — Smack in the middle of downtown and just a bit west of Palm Canyon is Holiday House. This is the sister property of Sparrows Lodge, which is located on the south end of Palm Springs.

Named one of Travel + Leisure’s Top 500 Hotels of 2022, Holiday House is a 21+ property. Please note there are no TVs in the rooms, but honestly, you can do that at home. Your time is best spent poolside, in a very swimmable pool.

The 28-room hipster hideaway has a little restaurant called The Pantry. Lunch is served 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. and dinner is from 5 to 9 p.m., and they’ve even got a poolside menu. There aren’t a lot of choices for dinner, but what they do have is pretty scrumptious, which means they’re pretty busy. Locals try to go, but you guys generally have eaten all that deliciousness by the time we get there.

L’Horizon’s cabanas. Photo credit: Visit Palm Springs

L’Horizon Palm Springs — Originally designed in 1952 by William F. Cody as a retreat for television producer and oil tycoon Jack Wrather and his actress wife, Bonita “Bunny” Granville (yeah, no idea either), L’Horizon has been restored to its original grandeur and is 100 percent squee-worthy.

Located on three acres, the 21+ resort has 25 private bungalows, and the original 2,000 square foot home is available for bookings as well. The living room and yard of the house have unobstructed views of the mountains, and there is a sunken seating area, wood-burning fireplace, dining room, wet bar, kitchen, marble bathrooms with rainforest showers, and an outdoor shower.

When you’re done lazing by the pool, The Spa offers massages, body treatments, facials, and add-ons like peppermint foot therapy and wild lime scalp treatments. Once you’re fully relaxed, stop by Le Shop, a boutique featuring Naturopathica’s skin care and body products, resort wear, swimsuits, jewelry, sunglasses, and home accessories.

And…drumroll…L’Horizon also has a gourmet restaurant called SO•PA that serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner (feel free to order poolside as well). Dramatic, refined, and intimate, SO•PA offers a unique alfresco dining experience, and is on everyone in Palm Springs’ bucket list for dining.

The patio at El Mirasol at Los Arboles. Photo credit: Los Arboles Hotel

Los Arboles — The Casteñada family would like to welcome you to their 21-room “home” featuring a rooftop deck, a courtyard pool, hot tub, and home cooked authentic Mexican meals at El Mirasol at Los Arboles. 

I am not kidding you about the authentic food. Mama Casteñeda oversees the kitchen, and all of the dishes are from her recipe box (the box actually lived in her head, and she had no need to write them down until she opened a restaurant).

The restaurant is in a courtyard, and is a local favorite. They also have a sister location on the south end of town, the original El Mirasol. Pair the jalapeño margarita with any dish and you’ll be a very happy camper.

Pull up a chair at Sparrows Lodge. Photo credit: Sparrows Lodge

Sparrows Lodge — The bohemian sister resort to Holiday House also has zero TVs, but man do they have a great swimmable pool and misters all throughout the courtyard. The interiors have a modernist, beachy, farmhouse feel to them. If I’m any indication, you’ll feel a sense of serenity the moment you enter.

Their restaurant is called The Barn and like The Pantry at Holiday House, it’s on everyone’s bucket list. I cannot stress to you enough that you need a reservation, and generally well in advance. Executive Chef Sebastian Lowrey and Sous Chef Daniella Lara have created some wonderful offerings for lunch and dinner, and everyone wants in.

One of Villa Royale’s sparkling pools. Photo credit: Villa Royale

Villa Royale — Gorgeous old bones have been renovated to an even more glorious and contemporary retreat, well off the beaten path in the Deepwell neighborhood. The 21+, 38-suite property has three pools, mountain views, and folks, it is pet-friendly.

With over 50 original pieces of artwork on site, it’s like being immersed in a museum. All of the work was commissioned exclusively for the resort, and artists Sara Radovanovich, Lou Kregal, and Juan Casas lived at the Villa Royale while creating their oil paintings, which feature everything from pop culture icons to desert scenes.

Focusing on Spanish and Mediterranean flavors and led by Chef Louis Martinez, the Del Rey is Villa Royale’s small-plate restaurant. It boasts a beautiful 12-seat oak and marble bar, as well as booths and an outdoor patio with firepit. The cocktail menu is very creative — drink ingredients include black tea ice cubes, saffron syrup, and olive oil — so  get ready to imbibe. 

Coming next Tuesday: resorts with breakfast and lunch served on premise for guests only. Not a local in sight.

The Vista Grande Resort isn’t just a men’s clothing-optional boutique hotel in the heart of Warm Sands. It’s a philosophy and an opportunity for gay men from all over the world to gather and simply be who they are. “The Art of Being” is their adage, and it’s embedded in the guest experience as much as it is embedded in their logo.

Established in 1984, Vista Grande was the first gay clothing-optional hotel in Palm Springs. It’s also the longest running, and their mission remains steady: “To save the world one man at a time, providing discerning gay travelers with an unforgettable blend of comfort, fun, and pleasure in our secret garden sanctuary where we celebrate life, love, and personal freedom every day.”

The moment you arrive at Vista Grande, you enter a secret garden that feels like an endless oasis of pleasurable potential. The lush landscaping envelops the labyrinth-like property and is carefully curated by one of its founding fathers, Robert Fields. It almost feels like a tropical rainforest in the center of the low desert. With an ever-breathtaking view of the San Jacinto Mountains, Vista Grande invites you to explore your vigor for being alive. It also invites quite a few hummingbirds to the party as well!

The property’s gorgeous waterfall. Photo courtesy of Vista Grande Resort

What makes Vista Grande truly unique though is a commitment to their philosophy. You can feel a visceral surge of freedom in every aspect, from their inquisitive amenities to their communal sense of hospitality. The attentive staff’s comforting approach makes you feel more like family than the average resort as well. And since Vista Grande doesn’t “specify,” it makes for a popular, unpretentious mix of men of all types, ages, shapes, and sizes that seems to make everyone feel right at home.

The Avalon seating area. Photo credit: Gregory Douglass

Vista Grande is one of the only men’s clothing-optional resorts that offers extended stay opportunities. Their spacious garden apartments are fully equipped with all the comforts you would expect in a home, but with additional concierge hotel services, housekeeping, swimming pools, a spa, a steam room, waterfalls, and beautiful views of the gardens (and the neighbors)! What’s more, an extended stay at Vista Grande grants anyone the liberty to experience a prolonged sense of freedom rather than just a weekend of delight.

My husband Glen and I spent a pleasurable evening in one of their four Mirage Waterfall Suites, located in the beautiful enclave just steps from the steam room, 18-man spa, blue lagoon, and waterfall. It’s the perfect fairy tale setting for just about anything, and Mirage suites are elevated by concierge services like VIP parking, welcome gifts, and breakfast trays delivered to your room daily. We even had special burgundy towels specific to the Mirage suites experience to wear like badges of honor throughout the evening. At the end of our stay, the staff proudly proclaimed to us, “You are Mirage Men now!”

Breakfast in bed. Photo courtesy of Vista Grande Resort

Get cozy on the couch in one of the Mirage suites. Photo credit: Gregory Douglass

Another unique aspect of Vista Grande is the layout of amenities throughout the property. There are two swimming pools on the grounds, each equipped with a floating canopy covering about a third of the pool for shade. The Vista Grande Villa art deco-style pool serves as a quieter, non-smoking and no-music pool with a vintage Palm Springs vibe. The Avalon pool is a more expansive “party” area that is ripe for male adventure.

During our stay, I had the opportunity to connect with Robert Fields himself, and it didn’t take long for me to realize how deeply invested he is in the essence of Vista Grande. He compared his sprawling garden creations throughout the property as a “canvas to paint upon.” He also hinted at the magical relationship he had with his late husband Bob, and how together they created Vista Grande to serve as an extension of their mutual celebratory spirit for all others who visit the resort to benefit from. Robert is still very much the heart and soul of the place, and it’s apparent how much his employees appreciate him and his philosophy too — most have been working there for years.

After just 24 hours, I left the Vista Grande Resort feeling inspired, rejuvenated, and much freer than I had felt before checking in. I can only imagine what a longer stay would have revealed in “The Art of Being.”

All men are welcome at Vista Grande Resort. Photo credit: Gregory Douglass

The Hacienda at Warm Sands is a gay resort for men-only that invites every guest to “Enter Quiet Luxury.” That’s exactly what I got to experience upon my arrival, from the moment I was greeted at the front entrance by The Hacienda’s devoted staff. In fact, there was no checking in at any front desk. I was immediately accompanied to my spacious private suite, then given a fresh Arnold Palmer and tour of the beautiful, peaceful grounds The Hacienda has come to be appreciated for by its faithful repeat guests.

Total relaxation awaits at The Hacienda at Warm Sands. Photo by Gregory Douglass

The Hacienda at Warm Sands has been a staple in the Palm Springs gay resort community since the 1970s. It’s draped in lush foliage, Southwestern plantings, Saltillo-tiled patios and walkways, and breathtaking vistas of the San Jacinto Mountains. It’s an intimate resort that features only 10 luxurious private suites, each equipped with its own dedicated WiFi as well.

There are two large swimming pools men can enjoy day and night, as well as a jetted in-ground spa and adjacent fireplace. Each pool area is surrounded with cush, ultra-comfy chaise lounges that even sport their own fitted towels to lounge on.

The Hacienda at Warm Sands is a swimsuit-optional resort, which is different from a clothing-optional resort. Guests are welcome to wear their clothing (or not) in their suite, in the pools, or on the grounds, but it’s appropriate to be clothed while walking throughout the grounds. This is what differentiates The Hacienda the most from other gay, men-only resorts here in Palm Springs, in my opinion. It’s a place for relaxation more than it is a place for recreation.

Spa time at The Hacienda at Warm Sands. Photo by Gregory Douglass

Another Hacienda motto is “Expect the Uncommon.” My expectations were surpassed when the house manager offered me some vintage “welcome” documents from when The Hacienda at Warm Sands first opened and operated as Hacienda En Sueño (“The House of Reverie”) in the late ’70s. The documents were prepared on a typewriter, and provided a fascinating read and an uncommon glimpse into the covert nature of our LGBTQ+ past here in Palm Springs.

Back then, there was no mention of male guests. It was simply described as a “unique and secluded” special oasis that is a “carefully guarded” and “meticulously groomed retreat.” The hotel used to be monitored by armed, uniformed police protecting the property at least four times each evening. While The Hacienda may no longer offer grocery deliveries and a selection of sun tan oils (ranging from 0-15 SSP), it still honors the same pampered philosophy of “intimate privacy and guest compatibility” that it has since the beginning.

The Hacienda En Sueño’s guests were usually by referral as they did not advertise in those days. They also described the resort as being “particularly attractive to the literate, sensitive, and well bred” — and that also still rings true today from what I observed.

During my stay, I witnessed several guests buried in a book, enjoying extended reading time by the pool. I didn’t experience much social time with my temporary neighbors beyond daily pleasantries like “Good morning.” People were quiet, independent, and very respectful of one another’s personal space and shared need for rest and relaxation.

There were plenty of perks to assist with the restoration process too, including a complete pillow menu in the suite bedroom and personalized pillows with guest names embroidered in them. In addition to the custom pillows, every note was personalized as well. The bedroom closet was equipped with a selection of bathrobes, slippers, and yoga mats, and the bathroom featured two showerheads (should you want some company). In the kitchen, there was a welcome basket with various treats and a binder with menus for a daily complimentary lunch (catered by Manhattan In The Desert).

Custom pillows are a fun touch. Photo by Gregory Douglass

The common area breezeway housed their daily complimentary breakfast selection as well as water coolers (hot, cold, and room temp), guest laundry access, and a daily calendar of local events featured on a bulletin board.

In the spirit of “expecting the uncommon,” there were also intriguing dog paws cemented in the tiles in various spots throughout the property. I asked the manager about them, and while there was no real story or deeper meaning behind the paws, it made for a fun scavenger hunt one afternoon.

What really defines the true Hacienda experience is their five-star hospitality services. I spoke with a manager named Victor and he described their approach as “striving to anticipate guests’ expectations.” They encourage feedback and take it seriously, and have more than 500 Tripadvisor reviews. 

Fun fact: the final episode of Logo TV’s Finding Prince Charming was filmed at The Hacienda at Warm Sands. And who knows — perhaps you’ll find Prince Charming during your next Hacienda stay!

The welcome basket provided to guests at The Hacienda at Warm Sands. Photo by Gregory Douglass

Twin Palms Resort is Palm Springs’ newest kid on the block. 

An upscale boutique hotel, Twin Palms is a brother property to the Santiago and Descanso. This trio of remarkable resorts offer gay men a gorgeous selection of naturally chic, swimsuit-optional retreats right in the heart of Palm Springs, and having now experienced all three properties myself, I can happily say “the third time’s a charm” with Twin Palms Resort.

Welcome to Twin Palms Resort. Photo by Gregory Douglass

Santiago was my first experience at a men’s resort in Palm Springs, back in 2018. As a 40-year-old gay man living in Los Angeles at the time, I’d never felt such freedom and restoration from a long weekend away from my big-city life. It was a game-changing experience for me.

I was curious how the other men-only resorts here in the Coachella Valley compared to the distinguishable Santiago experience. “How different can they all be?” I wondered. Having now experienced the majority of gay hotels here, it’s a privilege to be writing about what a spectrum of enticing options we have — each with its own flavor, vibe, and healing benefits.

The modern clubhouse. Photo courtesy of Twin Palms Resort

Twin Palms Resort is no different from its brother properties when it comes to top-notch luxury and leisure. The “casually extravagant” experience is what many have come to expect from a Resorts Palm Springs property, and yet Twin Palms already has a distinct personality of its own. Santiago has a modern Spanish aesthetic, while Descanso boasts a “California garden patio” motif. Twin Palms is the first to celebrate a true mid-century modern concept inside and out.

Nested in Palm Springs’ first modernist neighborhood, Twin Palms Estates, the resort looks as timeless as it does fresh in style, with its pops of yellows, blues, and greens. These colors accent that classic, clean white modernism style that makes Palm Springs architecture so iconic. It might even rival the hotel’s historic start — opened in 1959 as the Brentwood Apartments, the property was originally developed to blend in with the neighborhood’s 90 modernist tract homes, designed by one of the founding fathers of Palm Springs modernism, William Krisel.

Hotel guests can use these bikes to tool around town. Photo courtesy of Twin Palms Resort

What really makes Twin Palms Resort unique is its communal layout. The perfectly heated saltwater swimming pool acts as a centerpiece to its 20 single-story guest rooms, yellow umbrellas, and chaise lounges that all wrap around the pool like a rainbow. The 12-man spa is just as welcoming as the luxurious patio space, which faces a breathtaking view of the San Jacinto Mountains.

You have to love those mountain views. Photo courtesy of Twin Palms Resort

Like Santiago and Descanso, the Twin Palms experience also includes a hip clubhouse guest lounge, a communal fire pit, an outdoor mist cooling system, a 24-hour canteen with complimentary beverages, a daily complimentary continental breakfast, and complimentary poolside lunch.

You can expect the same level of guest service as well from Twin Palms’ friendly staff, and in-room welcome amenities too. Some highlights include beautiful modern gay artwork, a resort texting hotline for direct communication with the staff, lamps with charging stations, luxurious heavy-weight bathrobes, some fun “adult goodies” in the drawer of each bedside table, and even a personalized welcome note upon your arrival.

A plush king room at Twin Palms. Photo courtesy of Twin Palms Resort

In addition to an outdoor shower and pool bathroom communal showers, every room features grand marble bathrooms with spacious walk-in glass showers, sporting both rain and handheld shower heads – lending even more community appeal to the place.

The outdoor shower is one perk of staying at Twin Palms. Photo by Gregory Douglass

Twin Palms Resort is also as earth-friendly as it is gay-friendly, offering off-street guest parking with four electric vehicle chargers, sustainable bath products from Public Goods, and even bicycles you can borrow to explore the neighborhood.

It’s easy enough to retreat from the community as well. Every room features remote lighting and window shades, as well as private rear patios. Even the mini-fridge is tucked away in the bathroom vanity, which I thought was a clever decision.

The author enjoying his room at the Twin Palms. Photo by Gregory Douglass

What makes the communal aspect of Twin Palms Resort so special is its potential for new friends and new connections to be made. In an environment somehow as nonchalant as it is enveloping, it was seamless to connect with fellow guests and then naturally go our separate ways. 

I’ve learned that every resort has a “scene” of its own. Time will tell what the Twin Palms scene is — but the stage is set for all sorts of possibilities. I suspect it will help spark a long line of lasting friendships that will all begin at the charming little gay hotel in Twin Palms Estates.

Unwind in the resort’s pool and spa. Photo courtesy of Twin Palms Resort

Just a few minutes from the thumping beat of the nightlife on Arenas is The Hacienda at Warm Sands, LUXlife magazine’s 2020 and 2021 Best LGBTQ Resort in North America. If you didn’t know, you wouldn’t know — it’s discreetly camouflaged by a perfectly manicured privacy hedge standing sentry over the Spanish villa-style artistry that waits inside. Carved into the hedge, a gorgeous wooden gate with lanterns on either side to show you the way.

Welcome to The Hacienda at Warm Sands. Photo courtesy of The Hacienda at Warm Sands

Inside, a rich tapestry of winding Saltillo tile pathways are surrounded by lush foliage and dotted with surprises along the way: an outdoor fireplace, an in-ground spa, a tranquil water feature, and the two clear blue pools that anchor the 10 suites surrounding them. And if you’re impressed with the outside of the property (if you aren’t, you’re dead inside), the rooms are gonna knock your socks off.

Before we get to that part of the tour, you should meet your hosts: Jim Moje and Maurice Minno. Jim is, as he puts it, “a frustrated architect” with a degree in finance, and Maurice has a master’s degree in hotel and restaurant administration from Cornell University. For the past 21 years, they’ve put all their hopes, dreams, and skills into turning The Hacienda at Warm Sands into the 5-star experience that it is.

The experience begins the moment you book your room — that’s when the Hacienda’s team begins to prep for your stay. Something special you’d like upon arrival? Would you like the food pantry stocked with specific items? Perhaps you’d like a private chef for a delicious dinner? If you can dream it, the team will do everything within their power to make it happen. 

It gets even better when you’re a repeat guest because it’s easier to anticipate your needs, and that’s what the resort is all about: offering “anticipated but unexpected Hacienda moments” to their guests. And they do it unobtrusively, like your guardian angel. The ratio of staff to guests is one to one with a turnover that’s nearly non-existent — even after a pandemic. That’s because Hacienda values their staff as much as they do their clientele and made provisions to take care of them while the resort was closed for about six months due to COVID-19. Now that they’re back open, every precaution is taken to keep you safe inside their hedges. 

The Deluxe Grand Suite. Photo courtesy of The Hacienda at Warm Sands

There are five styles of well-appointed suites. The smallest is just under 500 square feet, and the largest around 900 square feet — all with furniture and amenities chosen for functional elegance. Every suite has a kitchenette that is ingeniously disguised to look like an elegant wet bar, a sitting room, and a large luxurious bathroom with so many L’Occitane amenities it’ll make your body giddy with anticipation. 

The Deluxe Junior Suite bathroom. Photo courtesy of The Hacienda at Warm Sands

Multiple heads and horizontal water sprays turn each shower into a spa, with large plush towels waiting to dry you quickly once you’re done. In your closet, there are two robe options available: a waffle weave for daytime and a heavier-weight robe to provide extra warmth and comfort on cooler evenings by the fire.

The beds are fit for a king (or queen): thick comfy mattresses dressed in crisp linens with a variety of luxury pillows available from the resort’s “Pillow Menu.” It’s a bit like Goldilocks and the Three Bears — keep trying them until you find one that’s just right.

The continental breakfast spread. Photo courtesy of The Hacienda at Warm Sands

An expanded, seemingly endless continental breakfast and a restaurant-crafted catered lunch of wraps, sandwiches, and salads are served daily, along with your favorite beverage (red or white wine, fresh-brewed iced tea, or lemonade). You can enjoy your meals while languishing in the outdoor spa, by one of the pools, or next to the outdoor fireplace. Above you, only palm trees, breathtaking mountains, and blue skies frame this extraordinary 5-star oasis in Palm Springs.

It’s no surprise that no matter where you look, all the reviews of The Hacienda at Warm Sands are five stars. Jim and Maurice have spent 21 years cultivating the best staff and service known to mankind, as well as perfecting a luscious landscape of earth, water, and fire surrounding their spacious and exquisite suites, providing so much worldly comfort and pampering you’ll feel like a royal.

Night falls on the hotel. Photo courtesy of The Hacienda at Warm Sands