Blogger Elaine Masters wanted a classic Palm Springs vacation, and that’s exactly what she had, soaking in the city’s sights and visiting some of the most popular hotels, from the Spanish-style Los Arboles to the Art Deco-inspired Westcott.
Posts
Just a few minutes from the thumping beat of the nightlife on Arenas is The Hacienda at Warm Sands, LUXlife magazine’s 2020 and 2021 Best LGBTQ Resort in North America. If you didn’t know, you wouldn’t know — it’s discreetly camouflaged by a perfectly manicured privacy hedge standing sentry over the Spanish villa-style artistry that waits inside. Carved into the hedge, a gorgeous wooden gate with lanterns on either side to show you the way.
Welcome to The Hacienda at Warm Sands. Photo courtesy of The Hacienda at Warm Sands
Inside, a rich tapestry of winding Saltillo tile pathways are surrounded by lush foliage and dotted with surprises along the way: an outdoor fireplace, an in-ground spa, a tranquil water feature, and the two clear blue pools that anchor the 10 suites surrounding them. And if you’re impressed with the outside of the property (if you aren’t, you’re dead inside), the rooms are gonna knock your socks off.
Before we get to that part of the tour, you should meet your hosts: Jim Moje and Maurice Minno. Jim is, as he puts it, “a frustrated architect” with a degree in finance, and Maurice has a master’s degree in hotel and restaurant administration from Cornell University. For the past 21 years, they’ve put all their hopes, dreams, and skills into turning The Hacienda at Warm Sands into the 5-star experience that it is.
The experience begins the moment you book your room — that’s when the Hacienda’s team begins to prep for your stay. Something special you’d like upon arrival? Would you like the food pantry stocked with specific items? Perhaps you’d like a private chef for a delicious dinner? If you can dream it, the team will do everything within their power to make it happen.
It gets even better when you’re a repeat guest because it’s easier to anticipate your needs, and that’s what the resort is all about: offering “anticipated but unexpected Hacienda moments” to their guests. And they do it unobtrusively, like your guardian angel. The ratio of staff to guests is one to one with a turnover that’s nearly non-existent — even after a pandemic. That’s because Hacienda values their staff as much as they do their clientele and made provisions to take care of them while the resort was closed for about six months due to COVID-19. Now that they’re back open, every precaution is taken to keep you safe inside their hedges.
The Deluxe Grand Suite. Photo courtesy of The Hacienda at Warm Sands
There are five styles of well-appointed suites. The smallest is just under 500 square feet, and the largest around 900 square feet — all with furniture and amenities chosen for functional elegance. Every suite has a kitchenette that is ingeniously disguised to look like an elegant wet bar, a sitting room, and a large luxurious bathroom with so many L’Occitane amenities it’ll make your body giddy with anticipation.
The Deluxe Junior Suite bathroom. Photo courtesy of The Hacienda at Warm Sands
Multiple heads and horizontal water sprays turn each shower into a spa, with large plush towels waiting to dry you quickly once you’re done. In your closet, there are two robe options available: a waffle weave for daytime and a heavier-weight robe to provide extra warmth and comfort on cooler evenings by the fire.
The beds are fit for a king (or queen): thick comfy mattresses dressed in crisp linens with a variety of luxury pillows available from the resort’s “Pillow Menu.” It’s a bit like Goldilocks and the Three Bears — keep trying them until you find one that’s just right.
The continental breakfast spread. Photo courtesy of The Hacienda at Warm Sands
An expanded, seemingly endless continental breakfast and a restaurant-crafted catered lunch of wraps, sandwiches, and salads are served daily, along with your favorite beverage (red or white wine, fresh-brewed iced tea, or lemonade). You can enjoy your meals while languishing in the outdoor spa, by one of the pools, or next to the outdoor fireplace. Above you, only palm trees, breathtaking mountains, and blue skies frame this extraordinary 5-star oasis in Palm Springs.
It’s no surprise that no matter where you look, all the reviews of The Hacienda at Warm Sands are five stars. Jim and Maurice have spent 21 years cultivating the best staff and service known to mankind, as well as perfecting a luscious landscape of earth, water, and fire surrounding their spacious and exquisite suites, providing so much worldly comfort and pampering you’ll feel like a royal.
Night falls on the hotel. Photo courtesy of The Hacienda at Warm Sands
“Doing nothing is hard. You never know when you’re done.” — Steve Martin
Welcome to June in Palm Springs! The temps are hot, and the pools are cool, so it’s the perfect time for a rain-free vacation in the land of sun and stars.
Days are spent lounging poolside, shopping for vintage, or enjoying a nosh at one of our local restaurants. If it’s particularly warm, and you can’t take the heat, you can spend a day up in the cool of Mount San Jacinto State Park (take the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway up). If you’re going to hike make sure to take water, follow the trail, bring a flashlight, and check for the time of sundown. No one likes to get stuck on the mountain, although it is interesting for locals watching your little lights trying to find their way down at night.
Speaking of night, there’s still plenty of stuff to do, but make sure you spend a few moments gazing at the stars. We have low light pollution outside of the major streets, so there are lots and lots of bright twinkly stars to be seen in the night sky.
Must-dos in Palm Springs this June
Melvyn’s Restaurant at the Ingleside Estate is participating in Greater Palm Springs Restaurant Week. Photo courtesy of Melvyn’s
June 1: PS Card Show convention offers all the collectibles in cards — sports, Pokémon, whatever else card collectors collect, I have no idea. I am trying to get rid of stuff. But you do you. No judgment. (Maybe a leeetle — just a skoosh!)
May 31-June 9: Greater Palm Springs Restaurant Week — pick a couple of places you’ve always wanted to go, and benefit from their discounted prices. Not everything on the menu will be available at this special rate, but you’ll get a good taste and a feel for the place.
June 7 and 8: Big Gay BBQ — June is Pride month for most cities who celebrate, but we have it in November. That doesn’t mean we can’t throw a party in June though. On Arenas.
June 11: Movies in the Park: Ferris Bueller’s Day Off in the Downtown Park next to Marilyn.
June 18-24: PSIFF presents ShortFest at the Palm Springs Regal Theaters. Short films from around the world. Check it out.
June 20: GameAcon West at the Palm Springs Convention Center. “Where fans unite for competition, cosplay, merchandise, parties, and more.” I hope they dress up and come out to play. I miss Let’s Make A Deal.
Crystal Fantasy Psychic/Healing Fair on Saturdays and Sundays. There’s usually at least two psychics/readers in different practices. Plus they’ve got crystals galore. Robert Downey Jr. has been a customer for over six years.
Historical Society private tours — group walking and biking tours are over for the summer, but you can still book a private tour. You bring the ride, they provide the guide.
PS I Love You scavenger hunt at PS Art Museum — unleash your inner detective as you delve into the heart of Palm Springs. Engage with friendly locals, discover intriguing tales of history and culture and capture the essence of the city in photos, videos, and audio files.
Cascade Lounge in Agua Caliente Palm Springs. Check website for special events. Throw some money in a slot while you’re there, or save your dough and have dinner in their terrific steakhouse.
Agua Caliente Cultural Museum and Séc-he Spa
Get cultured
PS Underground — there’s nothing like it anywhere but Palm Springs: creative and themed live shows featuring some of Palm Springs’ finest entertainers, with delicious culinary delights sprung straight from the mind of Chef Dave. Great event space, too.
Revolution Stage Company — you should definitely book an evening or afternoon show here. There’s nothing like live entertainment, and Palm Springs is all entertainers and artists, so Revolution has a little bit of everything. Musicals, cabarets, comedy, piano riots, burlesque shows, and well, you just never know. Their homegrown productions have been fantastic so far, and next up is Baby the Musical running through June 9.
Coming in from far away places:
June 15: Irene Tu, an L.A.-based stand-up comedian of Comedy Central and Netflix fame.
June 27, 28, and 29: The Edgar Allen Poe Speakeasy, a chilling cocktail experience lifting four of his stories off the page and onto the stage. Poe historians are pairing each tale of horror with four classic cocktails to set the mood.
Palm Springs Cultural Center — film festivals and special events fill the Center during the summer. Located in the historic Camelot Theatre, they have the largest screen in the Coachella Valley.
June 14: Leanna and the Free Agents Space Odyssey, an immersive music experience
Wine, tequila, and tacos — what more do you need?
The Plush Cosmo at V Wine Lounge. Photo by Gregory Douglass
V Wine Lounge — Live music Monday through Friday (Karaoke on Wednesday)
Reforma Nightclub — it’s a nightclub and a restaurant. Check their schedule for DJs and music. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday.
Tequila Tuesday’s at Zin — 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., get 25% off tequila cocktails. (OT: I recently had their mussels in wine and frites. Thumbs up!)
Tuesdays at Maleza (in Drift Hotel) there’s live Latin music from 7 to 9 p.m.. Happy hour starts at 3 p.m.
Thursdays at Drift: 7 to 10 p.m. is Jueves de Drift. Tap into the Cabo spirit weekly with live DJs, $5 tacos a la plancha, $5 beer, $8 cocktails, and night swims.
Village Fest — Thursdays, 7 to 10 p.m., Tahquitz and Palm Canyon is a great place to start. Parking can be an issue, but not if you’re staying in one of our downtown boutique hotels!
Wang’s in the Desert is back. In the Rat Pack era it was called Jilly’s (he was one of Frank’s guys). I just checked and they’re bringing back entertainment, and it looks like Keisha D will be headlining. She’s a terrific performer with an incredible voice, so have a meal and let one of our desert divas take you to church!
And last, the Twin Palms neighborhood has opened a mid-mod little free library on Navajo Road between La Jolla Road and Marion Way. The neighborhood is also sponsoring a $2,000 scholarship in architecture.
And that’s it for June. Stay hydrated, wear sunscreen, and please stay and shop local. It’s imperative in small towns, and if you’ve ever been here, you know ours is pretty special.
It’s February, and no matter how many days it happens to be, it’s always been short shrifted. I’d start a movement, “Equal Days for February,” but February doesn’t seem to care. Within those 28 or 29 days in February, we get three holidays, two of which are solely American: President’s Day, for fairly obvious reasons, and Groundhog’s Day, with Punxsutawney Phil (1886) as the oldest of the celebrated rodents; tied for second are Mickey and Minnie (1928), with Mighty Mouse (1942) rounding out the meese. It’s a word, look it up.
With the exception of a few countries, Valentine’s Day is celebrated worldwide. Some of the customs are different, like in Japan and Korea where the women are the gift givers (rude). In Finland, they celebrate friendship (yay!) and Bulgaria keeps it simple with couples sharing a glass of wine.
Love is also in the air in Palm Springs, but that’s just a blip on the radar compared to the mack daddy of all our signature events, Modernism Week, running Feb. 13-23. People fly in from all over the world to celebrate the mid-mod aesthetic and participate in home and bus tours, watch movies, and listen to speakers. Last year, 130,000 people attended. Where do we put them all? The diehards stay in our fabulous small boutique hotels and resorts that were built during those days of yore.
If you’re not into all that, we’ve still got non-Modernism stuff going on, so grab a cuppa whatever, and let’s go:
One and done events
Feb. 1: Soul Springs Festival, 1 – 6 p.m., Downtown Park, free. This vibrant celebration of soul and jazz music invites attendees to enjoy captivating live performances by top artists, along with an interactive Soul Music Sing-Along where everyone can join in on classic hits. The festival promotes a sense of community and connection, encouraging attendees to bring their lawn chairs and spend a memorable day with family and friends.
Dinner and a show
Purple Room — Come play where the Rat Pack used to tear it up at this classy but fun hot spot on the southern end of the Palm Canyon strip, about two blocks past Sunrise Way/Lavergne. It’s a bit confusing on how to get there, but there’s what I call a “service road” that runs parallel to Palm Canyon. It’s just past the Saguaro; look for a sign that says “Trinidad Club.”
PS Underground — Visit their website for non-modernism shows, but maybe check out Ponytails, Chiffon and Shangri La, Feb. 18 – 20. For those of you who are unaware, Palm Springs was the movie stand-in for Shangri La in quite a few movies, starting way back in the early 1900s. PS Underground is a great experience, with wonderful food and entertainment. By the time you leave, you will know everyone at your table, and likely more. 100% worth it.
PS Air — It’s a restaurant/bar on a plane. Not a real one, but it feels like it. One of those big old airplanes that had an upstairs lounge where passengers could gather for cocktails and steak and lobster dinner (I don’t know how good it was. My family always went overseas by ship. Yes, I’m posh). PS Air takes you back to a time when flying was an “experience” and a way to travel. This year they have the Mid-Mod Boozy Brunch drag show on Feb. 16 and 23 “piloted” by charming and smooth-voiced Tod Macofsky with his crew of “stewardesses.”
Oscar’s — Good food, great entertainment. Home of Sunday’s The Bitchiest Brunch, Oscar’s has an eclectic mix of entertainers that mostly land in the realm of queer in all sense of the word — strange and unusually odd (but fantastic) and often part of the rainbow.
Dinner and dancing
Reforma — Inside the class one historic building known as the Jewel Box of the Desert. Enjoy dinner at La Cocina, dinner and dancing (separate) during Warehouse Wednesdays, Gasolina on Fridays, and Y2K AF on Saturdays.
Sammy G’s — Good Italian food on the menu in the restaurant and twinkly courtyard. After dinner, on Fridays and Saturdays, take it upstairs to the lounge and dance the night away to the music of the 1970s and 80s, covered by excellent local band the Evaro Brothers.
Entertainment, a nosh, and cocktails
The Rock Gallery — New comedy club where the Mid-Century Modern Museum used to be, on Palm Canyon Drive.
V Wine Lounge and Martini Bar — You can still keep it in the mid-mod aesthetic by going to this terrific spot in the class one historic Hugh Kaptur Plaza. Right next to Koffi on Tahquitz, there’s plenty of parking, pinot, and performances by some of our terrific local artists.
The Village Pub — Check it out during VillageFest. There’s always great music coming from their patios that makes you want to hit the dance floor. Lots of rooms to navigate — always an adventure!
Drinks, dancing and drag
Copa Nightclub — Late night club with drag shows and more, right next to The Tropicale.
Toucan’s Tiki Lounge — The OG of drag clubs and dancing. If you don’t like drag, don’t go. ‘K?
That’s it so far for February, I have to go thrifting for my mid-mod aesthetic outfit for Modernism Week. See you on the streets!
Four of Palm Springs’ most stunning boutique hotels are featured in a new commercial touting the benefits of a desert vacation.
The Descanso Resort, Fleur Noire, The Art Hotel, and Hotel El Cid all have their moment in the spotlight, showing off their pools, grounds, and hotel decor. The 30-second commercial, “Unique Stays,” makes it clear that staying at a Palm Springs boutique hotel offers an authentic experience guests cannot find at a large hotel or home rental.
Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels, in collaboration with the Greater Palm Springs Convention and Visitors Bureau and Palm Springs Bureau of Tourism, created the spot. The trio worked with Summerland Creative and JNS Media for production and talent, with Panoramic serving as the agency.
Now is the perfect time to plan an escape to Palm Springs — for residents of the West Coast, it’s a leisurely drive for a playcation or workcation, and domestic and international travelers can easily fly into Palm Springs International Airport. Visit the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels website to learn more about our unique properties and pick the right boutique hotel for your trip.
While on assignment for BBC News, Tayfun King was interviewing the owner of a boutique hotel in Buenos Aires when it hit him — he wanted to be the one running an inn.
As a travel reporter, Tayfun was immersed in the hospitality industry, crisscrossing the globe to learn more about the world’s most fabulous hotels. This wasn’t his original career choice — while studying mathematics and management at Cambridge University, he made a promise to himself: if he graduated with a first class honors degree, he would turn down the financial job offers he had received to follow his passion and become a professional Latin American dancer. Tayfun graduated with honors, and embarked on a dancing career, which led to him becoming a television journalist and host with the BBC, presenting programs on technology and travel.
“The travel show is where I developed my passion for boutique hotels,” Tayfun says. “I traveled to over 70 countries and 200 cities, and more than anything, staying at these amazing boutique hotels around the world stood out.”
Tayfun was fascinated by how these properties were able to forge their own identities, with each room connected despite their individual distinct themes. The owners he spoke with had “a passion that was coming through so clearly,” Tayfun says. “It was hard work for them, but they loved it and being able to express their creativity.”
In 2014, Tayfun launched a hospitality company in Los Angeles. He opened a property in Venice Beach, and then turned his attention east to Palm Springs. He was interested in a particular hotel for sale, but when his realtor showed him 641 E. San Lorenzo Road — the resort formerly known as Escape — Tayfun knew this was the place.
An aerial view of BelleVue Oasis. Courtesy of BelleVue Oasis
“I didn’t expect that,” Tayfun says. “I was there to have a matter-of-fact look around, but once I walked in and saw the entrance, I had an emotional reaction. The feeling you get when you’re there is so welcoming. It’s so natural, and there’s so much greenery with the grass, the trees, and the flowers. If I were coming to Palm Springs for a stay, I would love to stay here.”
A lot has changed at the mid-century modern property, starting with the name. Tayfun chose BelleVue Oasis because “belle vue” means “beautiful view” in French and “was what I was experiencing in the moment,” he says. The 13-room hotel has a new pool, pool deck, and interiors, plus recently installed turf and two putting greens. The mature palms and tropical landscaping are still in place, and guests rave about being able to enjoy the serene setting from their private patios.
“A common reaction is this is a hidden gem in Palm Springs — it’s beautiful, it’s lovely, it’s an oasis,” Tayfun says. “We have a high number of guests who keep returning to the property, and people who say their friends told them to stay here.”
Tayfun plans on developing a boutique hotel brand that will first grow in California before expanding, and is excited to get it started in Palm Springs. For him, it’s important that hotels tap into the history and true essence of the cities they are in, and he wants to make sure that people know as soon as they arrive at BelleVue Oasis that they are in Palm Springs.
“I love Palm Springs,” he says. “I love the energy, the people are friendly, it’s spread out, and it’s so well groomed.
From the time they book to the time they check out, Tayfun aims to make it so guests enjoy every part of the BelleVue Oasis experience. He wants them to look forward to their stay, building it up ahead of time and then having their expectations surpassed once they arrive, and to leave with lasting memories of their visit.
“It’s so fulfilling and exciting hearing what guests have to say,” Tayfun says. “That has been so rewarding and greater than what I thought it would be.”
Night falls on BelleVue Oasis. Courtesy of BelleVue Oasis
In need of a respite from daily life, we recently decided to visit Palm Springs with our dog, Fender. Not only did we want to stay at a dog-friendly hotel, but we were looking for a secluded setting with a nostalgic vibe, a wonderful pool for dipping and lounging, and a top-notch restaurant and bar. We found all this and more at Villa Royale, a beautiful hideaway — perfect for getting away in stylish comfort.
Villa Royale, one of the first small hotels in Palm Springs, was built in 1947 with the Hollywood elite in mind. For many years, it was a sanctuary for celebrities who wanted to escape their hectic lives in Los Angeles, only two hours away. Several years ago, the hotel underwent a complete renovation, which fortunately retained the historic, mid-century charm of the original hotel. Today it is still an appealing popular retreat, not just for the rich and famous but for anyone seeking peace and tranquility in a lovely setting, highlighted by a stunning mountain backdrop.
In the cozy lobby, we checked in and were happy to be welcomed with a delightful cocktail. As we walked to our villa, we were thrilled to see not just one inviting pool surrounded by lounge chairs, but three. There are 38 villas at Villa Royale, each with its own unique mid-century modern character and design. We learned that the property has more than 50 pieces of original art commissioned for the hotel, with one in each room.
Our inviting room at the Villa Royale. Photo by Todd Montgomery
Our very nicely furnished room facing the serene pool was a haven for us and our dog, with a private landscaped back patio, luxurious bedding, and a wonderful walk-in shower. We were happy to learn that we could enjoy fresh coffee and a continental buffet in the morning.
Welcome to the Del Rey. Photo by Todd Montgomery
In the evening, we were excited to be dining at Villa Royale’s upscale, popular restaurant, Del Rey, which specializes in tapas and small plates with a Spanish/Mediterranean flair. The menu is overseen by much celebrated Chef Louis Martinez. Since our dog was with us, we sat outside on the restaurant’s pleasant, inviting patio. It was a lovely but chilly night; however, we were warm and comfortable because of the very effective heating lamps strategically placed by our table. There was a wedding party dining nearby and, like us, they seemed happy and relaxed. We also checked out the inside of the restaurant which is romantic and intimate, with dim lighting and cozy tables. The restaurant features an inviting oak and marble bar where I would like to while away a few convivial hours someday.
The inviting fireplace inside the Del Rey. Photo by Todd Montgomery
Del Rey offers a variety of enticing cocktails. We enjoyed a unique and surprisingly delicious Del Rey Martini made with touches of sherry, orange bitters, and olive oil (yes, olive oil). We also relished the El Ultimo cocktail made with strawberry tequila, absinthe, and orgeat syrup, served with lime and mint. In addition, Del Rey offers a full wine list, featuring Spanish wines. Fender was happy with his drink, too, when the helpful staff brought him a bowl of fresh water.
Then, in the Spanish tradition, we ordered a variety of tapas for our dinner. I love this kind of meal because you can sample small bites of a variety of dishes. We really enjoyed the Basque asparagus, topped with romesco sauce and manchego, and also savored albondigas — beef and pork meatballs covered with a sweet and sour glaze.
We loved the Chuleta de Cordero, rosemary and lemon marinated lamb chops, which were tender and full of flavor. Another superb dish was a grilled flatbread called Pan Con Setas that was topped with mushrooms, manchego, red onion, and an herbed olive oil drizzle. For dessert, we savored the delectable walnut bread pudding. The friendly service at Del Rey was impeccable and added to the ambiance of the evening. Satiated, we sauntered back to our villa through the lushly landscaped courtyards with flowing fountains and pools that shimmered invitingly in the moonlight.
The delicious walnut bread pudding. Photo by Todd Montgomery
It was truly a special night and we felt very far away from our busy daily lives. It is surprising how relaxed you can become with just a night away in such a peaceful, glorious retreat. We may not be celebrities, but we felt like royalty at Villa Royale.
The Villa Royale lights up at night. Photo by Todd Montgomery
Here in Palm Springs, we understand how fortunate we are to have beautiful weather in the winter — that’s why our boutique hotels are often filled this time of year. Many properties welcome four-legged furry friends so they can join your getaway, too.
When you land at Palm Springs International Airport, you will be happy to learn that multiple areas inside and outside the terminal welcome pets. The courtyard has a pet area, playground, water features, and patio seating where humans can appreciate art scattered throughout the open-air space. Outside, there are more pet areas, each one fenced and shaded with grass and wood chips. Waste bags and a sink for handwashing are also provided.
Shop and dine with your canine
Palm Springs is known as a dog-friendly community. With so many outdoor patios, you can take Fido to restaurants all over town. When you make a reservation, just let them know you are bringing your pup, so you are seated on the patio. A cool night? There is nothing to worry about. Restaurants here have outdoor heaters.
Our retail shops are also welcoming. Often, you will find a water dish outside their doors, and don’t be surprised if the purveyor of the store asks if it is all right if they give your dog a treat.
If you’re going to buy souvenirs for everyone back home, you can’t forget a little something for your canine companion. Cold Nose Warm Heart is the largest independently owned retail store devoted to pets in Palm Springs. Even if you don’t have an animal, this is a fascinating store to browse, filled with everything from clothes to CBD treats/oils to an array of toys for the most discriminating pup.
Have a dachshund or know someone who does? Go to Bean Goods in the Flannery Exchange Building. There you can find everything related to dachshunds, from shoes to shirts.
There are also two Bone-N-Scones locations to visit in Palm Springs, and you can head to either one to get dog food and learn more about pet nutrition.
Seeing the sights
Many of you know about VillageFest, which attracts thousands of people each Thursday night in downtown Palm Springs. Feel free to bring your dog along for the evening — just be ready to stop every few steps to have attendees ask if they can pet him.
Dogs are not allowed at Joshua Tree National Park, so if you want to spend the day there, consider reaching out to PoshPetCare. This is a boutique-style daycare with three playrooms, and if your dog needs grooming, they can also arrange a beauty appointment.
Canines can roam leash-free at the David H. Ready Palm Springs Dog Park behind behind City Hall. Unfortunately, the hiking trails in Palm Springs are not dog friendly. This is both for their protection and the desert fauna. As you would expect, there are many dog sitters in Palm Springs, but there is no centralized place to find one and those who are excellent with animals are in demand and booked months in advance. Your best bet is to ask acquaintances in Coachella Valley before you come to town if they have a suggestion for someone to watch your furry friend while you explore the trails.
Pet-friendly boutique hotels abound in Palm Springs
If you plan to bring your dog along on vacation, we encourage you to visit the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels website and select a pet-friendly boutique hotel. Those hotels will probably surprise you with the lengths staff members go to help pups feel welcome and comfortable.
I’ve seen so many of the dogs I sit for plunk themselves down and bask in the sunlight. They get tired of cold, foggy days just like their owners, so do consider bringing them with you.
The late 1940s and ’50s was the start of modernism in Palm Springs, but it wasn’t until 2006 that Modernism Week first cast its spell on the world. Since then, the number of people attending has risen each year, with 2023 bringing in over 100,000 visitors, creating a revenue stream of $55 million.
They have over 350 things to do, and this post will help you navigate the event, but I’m gonna tell you about some of our preferred small hotels that are on the Modernism Week bus tour. You can make the event an exceptionally authentic one by also booking one of these boutique hotels. And this year, one of them is actually featured as a Modernism Week event.
A Palm Springs classic: Casa Cody
Casa Cody, the city’s oldest operating hotel, isn’t from the modernism era — it was built in the late 1910s — but the property has been well maintained and has a fantastic history. Harold and Harriet Cody left Hollywood and came to Palm Springs (by wagon) in 1916, as Harold’s frequent tribulations with pneumonia were worsening and the dry desert air was considered a health benefit for anyone with lung ailments. Harold was a Los Angeles architect, and purportedly the cousin of the legendary Buffalo Bill Cody.
Initially, Casa Cody was just their home, but in 1920 Harriet hung up a hotelier’s shingle, and the rest is Palm Springs history. Some of their more famous guests included Charlie Chaplin, American opera singer Lawrence Tibbett, and AnaÏs Nin. Harriet is said to be a direct descendant of Sir Thomas Moore and from one of the wealthiest families in Philadelphia.
Today, Casa Cody has 31 guest rooms and private rooms, two swimming pools, a jacuzzi, a spa treatment room, and a marketplace, and you can see it all on Feb. 19, 2024, during the hotel’s special Modernism Week event. You’ll get to go on a behind-the-scenes tour and hang out poolside, with cocktails and brunch items available. All of this can be yours for the low, low price of $50.
Even when it’s not Modernism Week, Casa Cody has movies by the pool and art events available to guests. This party is a great opportunity to roam the grounds and check out all of that history!
That’s not all…
The other boutique hotels you’ll see on the Modernism Week bus tour are:
Korakia Pensione — Originally called Dar Marroc and styled after Tangier, Morocco, Korakia was built in 1924. It’s the former hideaway of Scottish painter Gordon Coutts, and the rumor is that Winston Churchill painted (not the walls, canvases) in the Artist’s Studio. Forbes Traveler named it one of their sexiest hotels in America.
Ingleside Inn — Home of the popular Melvyn’s Restaurant and Lounge, this estate began as a private home built in 1924 for Ethel Richards Birge and sold to Ruth Hardy in 1935 (you may have heard of her park, located on Caballeros). Even if you don’t stay here, go for a cocktail at Melvyn’s to check it out. Très cool.
The Orbit In is a spectacular mid-century modern classic. Photo courtesy of Orbit In
Orbit In — Designed in 1948 by Herbert W. Burns, a builder and innkeeper behind a number of small inns and private homes in Palm Springs during the 1940s and ’50s. His Town and Desert Apartments live on as The Hideaway, one of the Orbit In’s two boutique hotels. From Orbit you can see Swiss architect Albert Frey’s masterpiece builds (Frey I & II) in the mountains above you. Burns designed many of the buildings on Baristo, just west of Belardo.
Movie Colony Hotel — This property was designed by Frey, who left his mark all over Palm Springs. Built in 1935, its original name was the San Jacinto Hotel, a three-unit townhouse. Currently, the Bauhaus-inspired property is a 17-room boutique hotel (they expanded, they did not cut up three townhouses to make 17 rooms). If you can, book Unit 29 — it is considered the least changed from Frey’s original design.
The views are fantastic from the Skylark Hotel pool. Photo courtesy of Skylark Hotel
Skylark Hotel — Recently updated, the mid-century modern property was built in 1955 and was the backdrop for the movie Palm Swings.
Willows — Located a stone’s throw south of the Art Museum, Albert Einstein used to stay here when he’d visit Palm Springs (and would “take the sun” in the buff). This is one of the 10 oldest structures in Palm Springs, and its eight guest rooms each have modern amenities while retaining their historic charm. You are right on the mountain, so you know you’re going to have a spectacular view.
Amin Casa — Formerly the home of Gloria Swanson, this beautiful estate dates back to the 1920s and accommodates 14 guests, adults only. For a unique experience, you can book Swanson’s original residence, a swanky two bedroom, two bath cottage with a grand living space.
That’s all we’ve got time for today, Modernettes. Hope to see you on the streets during Modernism Week!
Along with my good friend and fellow travel writer, Kris Grant, I recently visited Palm Springs for several days and thoroughly enjoyed savoring every moment at the boutique hotels where we stayed and visited — all part of the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels group.
The unique hotels in this group each have 49 rooms or less (sometimes much less) and are bursting with charm and cozy comfort. Over the years, I have stayed in quite a few of these small hotels and loved them all. This visit was no exception. The three hotels we focused on during this visit hark back to the days of old Hollywood, when Palm Springs was a glam retreat for celebrities wanting to escape and relax. And that’s what we were looking for too!
The Muse Hotel Palm Springs
The Muse Hotel is all aglow at night. Photo: Sue Montgomery
I stayed at The Muse Hotel Palm Springs, a recently renovated property with nine distinctively decorated rooms, most of them suites. My lovely suite had everything I needed for a wonderful stay: an inviting sitting area, a fully-equipped kitchen, and a luxurious bedroom with an oh so comfy bed. Each suite at The Muse is named after a famous movie star — accommodations include the Kate, the Marilyn, and the Audrey — and is individually decorated.
This is a pet-friendly hotel featuring free convenient parking, complimentary WiFi, and breakfast every day, plus you’re only five minutes from the fun shopping and restaurants in downtown Palm Springs.
Right outside my room (I was in the contemporary Kate suite), the courtyard was bright and cheerful with a glistening pool whimsically populated with bouncing flamingoes. I spent a few lazy afternoon hours there reading a good book and dozing off in a relaxing lounge chair. This adults-only hotel is perfect for a couple’s romantic getaway or also for a girls’ break from daily life. At night you can have a cocktail around the outdoor fireplace. This is such a special getaway for relaxing while relishing the feel of star-studded days gone by.
I learned from the owners, Maggie Vineyard and Greg Williams, that they had collaborated with Lisa Bell of Belle Design Build in the redesign of the previous hotel on this site. (I stayed in the previous hotel several years ago and the current impressive transformation is amazing.) “Lisa was a joy to collaborate with,” Maggie said. “She really understood my vision and was able to take my inspiration board of a fun, retro ‘girly’ vibe and bring it to life.”
Maggie also pointed out that she wanted to provide a relaxing retreat for a carefree experience while catering to small groups such as bachelorette or birthday parties, where guests could each have their own rooms but also enjoy a communal place for casual gatherings. She emphasized that a few fun surprises will be coming soon that will include lots of planning ideas for a wonderful itinerary while visiting Palm Springs.
Lucille Palm Springs
The Lucille Palm Springs has beautiful tile work throughout the property. Photo courtesy of The Lucille Palm Springs
My friend, Kris, stayed at the Lucille Palm Springs and was just as entranced with her accommodations. Featuring charming Spanish Moorish architecture, this exquisite hotel sits on a beautifully landscaped site surrounding five bungalows and four bedroom suites. This 1920s property was purchased in the late 1930s by former Hollywood dancers, Richard and Lisa Sinclair, who expanded and updated the property, making it a popular destination for Hollywood celebrities. For instance, Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz, who were close friends of the Sinclairs, frequently retreated to the hotel.
In 2000, new owners Dave and Trudy Johnston renovated the hotel, and in 2023 the newest owner, Celeste Burgoyne, did more remodeling and added more rooms. All the bungalows have plush linens and toiletries, Nepresso coffee machines, and outdoor hot tubs. Kris shared that she really enjoyed quite an upscale continental breakfast, including made-to-order espresso drinks, and was enchanted staying in the Prickly Pear unit, where Lucy and Desi used to sleep.
Kris loved that outside her front patio was a lovely orange tree, and enjoyed wandering down the brick-lined pathways, which occasionally featured vibrant mosaics and painted murals that led to private sitting areas with trickling fountains. What else could you ask for in a delightful getaway spot?
The Velvet Rope
Together, we visited the Velvet Rope, a laid-back but elegant hotel with nine distinctive suites, created by owner and well-known designer David Rios. Built in the 1950s and originally called The Desert Mirage, this mid-century modern hotel understandably attracted the Hollywood elite, who enjoyed the hotel’s clean lines and elegant vibe, which it still features today despite several renovations. Now each room is contemporary, but harks back to early Hollywood days with custom furniture and striking artwork that pops with color.
We explored the Ricardo Suite with its dazzling, colorful design touches. Other suites include the Ratpack Suite, paying tribute to Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, and Sammy Davis Jr.; the Lavender Suite honoring Elizabeth Taylor and featuring a make-up vanity and rainfall shower; and the Honeymoon Suite, which is a tribute to Elvis with a Graceland vibe and touches of blue velvet.
The Velvet Rope suites surround an inviting pool in a pleasant courtyard featuring Bar Valerie, where guests can enjoy drinks, small plates, and sometimes rocking live music. And of course you’ll find every amenity you could desire from complimentary WiFi, bottled water, comfy cabanas, and a light breakfast and coffee each morning.
The Muse, the Lucille, and the Velvet Rope are wonderful destinations if you want to relax in a comfortable getaway while capturing the ambiance of Hollywood’s glory days.
