From the beginning, the land the Cahuilla called Se-Khi (“boiling water”), the place Spanish explorers dubbed the ridiculously wordy La Palma de la Mano de Dios (“the palm of God’s hand”), and the city now (succinctly) known as Palm Springs, should probably have been named what it is: Paradise.

In the early 1900s, Palm Springs was the spot to cure lung ailments, and evolved into a place where scads of tennis-happy movie stars and U.S. presidents with a penchant for golf and impeccable hospitality came to live their best lives away from the cameras. 

More recently it’s evolved into a foodie paradise with 18-carat jazz, award winning cabaret, and fantastic theatre. (I know, Americans spell it “theater,” but generally stage companies use the British spelling because … drama.) All the musicians and actors tired of the rat race live and thrive in 350 days of sunshine per year, with a gorgeous mountain backdrop (including the second highest peak in California) and a million stars dazzling the night sky. So, if you’re a bit earthy/crunchy, and crave a relationship with the Earth, Palm Springs is your mecca. 

We can’t float your boat (our water’s mostly underground), but we can sizzle your bacon (in the summer, with just the sun) in our soul-satisfying, untouched wilderness.

Hiking in Palm Springs

Indian Canyons — Located at the end of South Palm Canyon, this is the ancestral home of the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians. Out here, with the exception of the Trading Post at the “end” (and a few hiker amenities), it’s just you and nature. One blog purports that you may “run into some old rock art, house-pits, irrigation ditches, dams, trails or food preparation areas while hiking in the canyons,” and now I have to go back and find them all, damnit.

There are three canyons to hike here (weirdly I thought there were more) and just like the rooms in your house, they’re all a bit different.

Murray Canyon — This is the only trail I have personally hiked in Indian Canyons. It’s a lot of flat land with nothing going on until you hit the copse of palm trees in the distance, and then I think a chorus of angels sang as we stepped beneath the trees and into another world. Suddenly it was all flora and wildlife, and I swear someone turned on an air conditioner. We crossed a couple of streams, one a bit bigger than expected, and we both chose a different path across. I was on the other side when I heard my friend shriek “RATTLER!” I did not see it (just the snake sunbathing at the entrance where we parked. I don’t know if he’s there every day, though. You know how snakes are.) We never made it to the small waterfall at the end. Someone, who was incredibly out of shape, got tired. Might have been me. 

Andreas Canyon — At 1.2 miles, it is the shortest of the three hikes, and I wish I’d known that. From their website: “A scenic foot trail leads through the canyon passing groves of stately skirted palms, unusual rock formations, and the perennial Andreas Creek. One can still see bedrock mortars and metates used centuries ago for preparing food. This tranquil setting is excellent for photography, bird-watching, or a picnic at one of the tables along the trail.”

Palm Canyon — At 15 miles, it’s the Mack Daddy of the trio. At the top is that Trading Post I mentioned earlier and just beyond the lip is one of the most breathtaking views you’ll see in your lifetime. In fact, here’s this tidbit from their website: “Palm Canyon is one of the areas of great beauty in Western North America. A moderately graded foot path winds down into the canyon for picnicking near the stream, meditation, exploring, hiking, or horseback riding.”

While it falls under the Indian Canyons banner, the Tahquitz Trail is just west of downtown, and was the stand-in for Shangri-La in the 1937 film Lost Horizon. It’s that stunning. This is not a difficult hike (I did it with ease), and you are rewarded at the end with a beautiful waterfall gushing into a pool of water. And yes, you can hop on in.

All of the above: $12 for adults, $7 for seniors and students, $6 for children. Military get in for free (thank you for your service!). Equestrian fees are $11 (where riding is allowed).

Horseback riding around town

For centuries, this was the only way to get around in Palm Springs — everybody was on a horse. Palm Springs is a great place to experience what it was like in the Old West, and Smoketree Stables will get you as close to that feeling without the hardship. I love horseback riding, but throughout the years haven’t been particularly successful at it. I had one horse that decided I needed to experience a run at full gallop my first time riding. Yet, I persisted. Several horses have tried to knock me off with low hanging branches, and one time the saddle was improperly buckled, and the saddle and I ended up perpendicular to the horse’s belly. Cats and dogs, on the other hand, love me as long as I don’t try to ride them. 

This link has everything you need to know for a much better experience than the ones I’ve had. They’ll hook you up so you can ride through Murray Canyon on a personal or group ride.

The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway

Most of us go for the gondola ride to the top, and have a nice lunch then gaze at the city below before we get in line for the ride back down. However, if you are an action figure, Mt. San Jacinto State Park is the place for you. Luckily, you are already in it. From their website: “Mt. San Jacinto State Park offers over 50 miles of hiking trails located within a 14,000-acre pristine wilderness, one of the last in California. All trails are accessed by exiting the Mountain Station and descending a concrete pathway to Long Valley. There you will find picnic tables, the ranger station, flush toilets, and several easy trails.”

This is the link that will lead you to the trails and a map. And the outdoor fun is not just limited to hiking. During the winter you can snowshoe and cross-country ski, and if you’re a crazy person you can camp. This stuff requires a wilderness permit, but it’s free.

For those who are certifiably insane, you can hike the tram station to Idyllwild. That link is to a great little website that tells you everything you need to know about any particular trail, plus hiker experiences, current temps, and difficulty. Tram to Idyllwild is a tough hike that is 9.6 miles and takes roughly six hours point to point. 

Stargazing in the desert

Palm Springs is shy on street lamps, which keeps the light pollution at bay. Many of our preferred hotels are tucked away in even less lit neighborhoods so you can hang by the pool in a chaise lounge and oooh and ahhh with a cocktail in your hand. But for those who are looking to get up close and personal with the cosmos, book with Sky Watcher. A knowledgable guide with telescopes and special glasses (not filled with alcohol) will take you on a tour of our planetary neighbors. 

Where to stay

Any of our Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels will be a great experience, but for this particular type of outing, I have a few specific suggestions.

For that “by the pool under the night sky with a cocktail” experience, Villa Royale is a good choice. On the southeast end of Palm Springs, it’s far enough away from Palm Canyon that the few street lamps we do have won’t hinder your experience. 

For a completely earthy-crunchy immersion, try the exotic Korakia. Dressed up as a pensione somewhere in the Middle East, they’ve got yogurt and yoga and they’re very big on tea.

Deeper pockets will take you to The Willows Historic Palm Springs Inn. It sits higher up than most of the other inns (stargazing at a premium) and has a wonderful garden where Albert Einstein himself used to sunbathe nude. If you see dead people, that would be a great sighting. 

Here’s a link for you to sort it out yourself because I have to go. I’m craving granola.