Located off the beaten path, tucked away in the Deepwell neighborhood of south Palm Springs, is a very special resort called Villa Royale. Situated on the tony tree-lined Indian Trail, it was built in 1947 next to two of Palm Springs’ old ranches: Smoketree and Deepwell Guest Ranch. Now, the resort is home to the elegant Del Rey restaurant, where during select Thursdays through May diners can enjoy Noche Paella with Chef Jose Ibarra-Sandoval.
My Noche Paella experience
Fill up on paella, then warm up by the Del Rey’s fireplace. Photo by Kay Kudukis
After arriving and finding plenty of parking, we walk a short distance past a white stucco to massive open gates that invite us to step inside the glorious courtyard dotted with stone fountains and brick pathways. They lead to the stunning, and I mean stunning pool, sparkling in the setting sun as dusk sets over the evening.
We follow the path to a smaller courtyard, where tapas sit on linen tables and friendly staff pass trays of cava. A request for sparkling water is happily filled by a lovely young lady who lets us know there is more where that came from. Chef provides entertainment in the form of the pièce de résistance: paella bubbling in a gigantic pan. We watch as he adds more ingredients, and then are escorted inside for dinner service.
It’s dark, but well lit. The dark is from the beautiful decor in umber tiles, red leather, and deep warm wood. There’s a fireplace and a gorgeous bar; it’s rich and cozy, old Spain without the Inquisition, luxurious and welcoming. As it turns out, our seats are even cozier, in a quiet alcove where we are greeted with a place card and our menu for the evening.
Note: there is chorizo in a few of the dishes, including the paella. Please keep that in mind, and perhaps enjoy Del Rey on another evening where you can order off the plentiful tapas-style menu.
A meal like none other
A personalized thank you note is a nice touch. Photo by Kay Kudukis
Our server is professional but also personable, as is all the staff. Incredible service throughout the evening, starting with the plating and service of Pintxo, a Spanish deviled egg with chorizo, green olives, and chives that is delicious and whets our appetites for the temporada salad with peaches, Serrano ham, queso Majorero, spinach, and pimentón vinaigrette. I have no idea what pimentón means, but it is tasty.
Next, we are served empanada de champiñones, which is hands down my favorite, because man, I love me some mushrooms. Chanterelles, leeks, Manchego cheese, with mojo verde and saffron aioli dipping sauces. So good.
And then comes the main event, and Chef! He stops by our table to make sure we are enjoying our evening. Of course we are, it’s fantastic, thank you, Chef! Here’s what’s in his Paella de Mariscos: saffron stock, chorizo, shrimp, mussels, clams, snap peas, and haricot verts.
Just as we are about to burst, out comes the after: arroz con leche, a.k.a. rice pudding with cream, raisins, and cinnamon and served with almond brittle. I am not a pudding person, but my companion says it is fantastic, and I can attest that the almond brittle is chef’s kiss.
After the end of a lovely evening, we file out through the adorable lobby, where Chef once again is there to say goodbye. We extend our thanks for this exquisite evening of fine dining and go home to dream of matadors in tight pants (who wouldn’t kill the bull).
This is one of the best fine dining experiences I’ve had in the Valley, and Villa Royale itself is quite enchanting.
Buen appetito!
