Taking the scenic route from Encinitas—through avocado and olive groves, the wine country of Temecula, and the San Jacinto Mountains—the Coachella Valley opened up before us. We smiled as we set our sights on Palm Springs, the genesis of Desert Modernism.
Some say Palm Springs plays host to the greatest concentration of mid-century modern architecture in the world. We’d been to Palm Springs before, when our kids were young, but this time my husband and I were free to explore the museums at leisure, laze by the pool, belly up to a tiki bar, bike mid-century modern neighborhoods, and do whatever else adults do when the offspring have flown the coop.
We checked into the Three Fifty Hotel, a boutique hotel designed by self-taught mid-century architect Herbert W. Burns in the Historic Tennis Club Neighborhood. Predominantly white with chartreuse and black accents, our stylish room came with a refrigerator, coffeemaker, and other amenities to make our stay comfortable. We fell back onto the large bed with a happy sigh. I set up my computer at the white Saarinen-style tulip table with a floor to ceiling view of the pool (with the mountains in the background) and wished my home office had a similar vista. Willing ourselves to leave our relaxing room, we set out on foot.
To our delight, we noticed a number of other mid-century hotel gems in the neighborhood. The Del Marcos Hotel, for example, is a 17-room stone-and-glass marvel that was famed Palm Springs architect William Cody’s first major valley commission in 1947. Bright orange lounge chairs line the rectangular saltwater pool — they make a perfect spot to enjoy the daily, complimentary happy hour. After a few hours lounging by the pool, enjoy an easy walk to a neighboring restaurant for lunch or dinner.
Nearby, the Orbit In's luxurious rooms feature period-appropriate furnishings like Heywood-Wakefield, and include record players and a collection of vinyl for your retro listening pleasure. Here, too, rooms wrap around a central pool so that all occupants enjoy the refreshing view. Because that California sunshine can really heat up a pool, they use a “chiller” to keep the water cool and comfortable. Breakfast and happy hour are served at the Boomerang bar poolside.
All of the hotels in the Tennis Club district are mere steps away from Palm Canyon Drive—Palm Springs’ main drag that holds a welcoming collection of shops, cafés, galleries, boutiques, and restaurants.
Later in our trip, we expanded our sightseeing to check out the 16-room Monkey Tree Hotel. Recommended by friends, this stylish hotel was designed by celebrated architect Albert Frey in 1960. With bright-yellow umbrellas, an expansive courtyard, and blue Salterini chairs and tables in front of each room, this hotel encourages outdoor relaxation in a colorful atmosphere. In addition to the large saltwater swimming pool, guests can also take advantage of the hot tub followed by a cold plunge for the brave.
Our favorite way to see most cities is from the seat of a bike. We rented rides from the super-friendly folks at Bike Palm Springs, where we purchased A Map of Modern Palm Springs (it includes 82 points of interest). Using the map, we spent our time cruising through the Vista Las Palmas neighborhood, stopping to ogle the 1962 House of Tomorrow (also known as the Elvis Honeymoon Hideaway) designed by William Krisel. Other notable homes included The Kaufman House, designed by architect Richard Neutra in 1946.
In the Little Tuscany neighborhood, we saw the home of mid-century designer Raymond Loewy, as well as the famed E. Stewart Williams’ Edris House, blending in to its rocky-outcrop perch. Next, we pedaled through Racquet Club Road Estates and saw the seven Alexander Steel Houses by architects Donald Wexler and Richard Harrison built in the early 1960s as models of a new type of stylish, affordable homes.
There are plenty of guided tours to choose from—walking, biking, driving, self-guided, or expert-led. Hop on a luxury bus for the popular Celebrity Grand Tour, or embark on the self-guided colorful doors tour, whose photo ops are made for Instagram. We plan to come back for February’s Modernism Week, when the city’s population more than doubles during the celebration of all things mod.
The day my husband and I arrived, we pulled into town around lunchtime and made a beeline for Sherman’s Deli & Bakery, a New-York-style family restaurant with huge portions. We shared a hot pastrami sandwich and a Reuben, and left wondering if we’d ever be hungry again.
In the early evening, we walked up the street from our hotel for a Negroni and Aperol Spritz in the refined atmosphere of Melvyn’s, a Palm Springs mainstay at Ingleside Inn. Afterward, we Ubered to what every local we met recommended—The Tropicale, reminiscent of a Miami supper club back in the day. We relished the fun atmosphere and first-class cuisine (mahimahi tacos were one of the specials that evening).
Another night, we sampled mai tais at the Tonga Hut tiki bar (specially priced on Tuesdays). Verdict? The drinks were delicious and the atmosphere was fun and hip. We also made reservations that night for a plant-based dinner presented family-style by Chef Gabriel Woo at the boutique Holiday House hotel. Although we are not vegetarians, I assure you it was one of the most delicious and inventive meals we’ve ever had—down to the vegan brownies. We enjoyed chatting with our fellow diners at the long, convivial outdoor tables, complete with magical lighting. Another Burns boutique hotel, Holiday House nurtures a communal atmosphere—foregoing televisions in rooms—and inspires guests to mingle amidst mid-century-inspired design touches and artwork.
On our final afternoon in town, we lounged outdoors at the gastro-pub Draughtsman, one of four dining options at the Arrive Palm Springs Hotel in the Uptown Design District. The boutique hotel’s central courtyard embraces outdoor living, day and night, with yard games and a bocce ball court for fun in the sun and cozy firepits for relaxing after dark. From our seats near the pool, we enjoyed sampling excellent California beers and nibbling our way through the “For Sharing” and “For Snacking” portions of the menu.
Palm Springs Art Museum Architecture and Design Center lies less than a quarter-mile from the Three Fifty Hotel, so we strolled over for an amazing exhibit celebrating color and pattern by artist and longtime Palm Springs resident Jim Isermann. The building itself is a marvel, designed by mid-century modern architect E. Stewart Williams in 1960. Formerly a savings and loan building, the museum’s gift shop is located in the original bank vault.
We decided we had time to visit the Palm Springs Art Museum as well. From the Architecture and Design Center, it’s a short half-mile walk. There’s a lot to see, so we focused on the mid-century pieces. We took in works by Alexander Calder, Henry Moore, Victor Vasarely, and other notables. Partway through, we dipped into the on-site Persimmon Bistro for a glass of wine on the patio surrounded by soothing fountains and large sculptures, including a pair of hearts.
The next day, we got in a little exercise as we strolled the Moorten Botanical Garden, a charmingly quirky spot with more than 3,000 varieties of plants and a number of striking specimens. Pro tip: Don’t pass by the enclosed “Cactarium” (they coined the phrase) without going in.
Starting at Palm Springs Art Museum Architecture and Design Center, head north on Palm Canyon Drive and you will stroll through Uptown South, Uptown North, and finally the Uptown Design District, which stretches from Alejo Road to Tachevah Drive.
On your way, drop by Destination PSP, offering mid-century themed products, an interesting collection of books on design, retro-themed swimwear, barware, and more. You can bet we left with a set of atomic rocks glasses to remind us of our trip during cocktail hour at home. Keep walking, and encounter Bon Vivant, specializing in bright Blenko and other mid-century modern art glass, mid-century jewelry, and home accessories. A wave of nostalgia washed over me when I spotted the Franciscan Starburst dinnerware: I’d grown up using it. Trina Turk is the de facto grande dame of the Uptown Design District and a must-visit destination for resort wear and colorful items for the home and garden, where we settled on some tasseled mod pillows to add a pop of color to our home.
My husband and I spent the better part of a day cruising places like Pelago, SHAG, A La Mod, Just Fabulous, Christopher Anthony, and so much more. Bonus shopping opportunities await during the annual Modernism Show & Sale (for decor and furnishings) and the Art Palm Springs art fair (for post-war and modern art), which take place during Modernism Week.
We’d done this before with the kids, but we had to do it again because it’s so much fun and offers such a great view of the valley—the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway. In a feat of engineering, the tram rotates 360 degrees as it rises (steeply) 2.5 miles so everyone gets a great view.
At the top, we decided to hike the Desert View Trail, which guides hikers along an easy 1.5-mile loop, with five different points at which to stop and admire the view of the valley below. Along the way, stop and smell the Jeffrey pine, which gives off a scent of butterscotch or vanilla. It’s always 20 to 30 degrees cooler at the top, so dress accordingly. (I’m guessing the gift shop sells a lot of sweatshirts.)
The tram can fit 80 people at a time, and the conductor had us all singing along to “Sweet Caroline” during our 10-minute descent. Next time, we plan to hike to the seasonal waterfall in Tahquitz Canyon or perhaps a trail in Palm Canyon, which we heard is another great area for hiking.
Note: Be sure to check days and hours of shops and restaurants prior to visiting as they vary seasonally.
