Be Extra At Modernism Week

The long bar with leather seats lined up in front of it at Melvyn's Bar in the Ingleside Estate in Palm Springs

Modernism Week does a great job curating special moments for you, but you can also create your own. Here are some spots that have the ring-a-ding to go full-metal Rat Pack. Some of them are on the Modernism Week website, and some of them are me making sure your trip is, as Frank Sinatra would say, 18 carat. 

Eat like Sinatra in Palm Springs

Johnny Costas — Frequented by Sinatra, they opened in 1976 — a little late for the mid-mod era, but it’s gangster. High class gangster that is. White shirts and black ties for the waitstaff, dimly lit, it’s 100% old school Italian. And it is good. Sit inside in the main restaurant for the full effect. You will leave happy and satisfied.

Wang’s in the Desert — Formerly Jilly’s, the club was owned and operated by Sinatra’s right-hand man, Jilly Rizzo. From Palm Springs Life: “Rizzo, a restaurateur and entertainer from New York City, owned Jilly’s Saloon in NYC, a celebrity hangout in the 1960s. Rizzo was a frequent guest on Rowan and Martin’s Laugh In and had bit parts in the Manchurian Candidate, Tony Rome, The Detective, and the television show Kojak.”

 Even after Jilly’s became Wang’s, it maintained a good reputation for having decent food and solid entertainment. The pandemic took it out, and in 2023 the Desert Sun announced that it would be closing for good. Surprise! It’s back, and still offering pan-Asian food. (Also right next to it is Bit of Country, my favorite “no frills, just good food” breakfast.)

Melvyn’s — Inside the historic Ingleside Estate (rebranded from Ingleside Inn), Melvyn’s bar is always swinging. This is old Palm Springs at its finest. Martinis are de rigueur, and they have a house pianist/entertainer. Sunday afternoons feature jazz jams. The dining room still serves Sinatra’s favorite dish, Steak Diane.

Bar Cecil — A mid-mod Hollywood crossover, many consider this the hippest spot in the Valley. Pronounced “Sess-ill,” there have been abundant celebrity sightings and it made the Michelin Guide in 2022.

Food and fun 

The Purple Room — The Judy Show is a must see in this Rat Pack supper club. Classically, the show has been on Sunday evenings, as it is the hottest ticket in town. I promise you’ll have a blast but you gotta book it now.

Entertainment

V Wine and Martini Lounge — Wonderful spot in an architecturally significant building designed by Hugh Kaptur. Right next to Koffi on Tahquitz, the fact that I am putting this under just entertainment is misleading. They do have food, and it is delicious, but it’s not exactly a meal meal, more like tapas. Also, the Opal Lounge features some of Palm Springs’ finest entertainers. Minimum cover, delicious cock and mock tails, tasty snacks, and great entertainment in a spot where it looks like Doris Day bumped into Rock Hudson during a 1960s rom-com.

Revolution Stage Company — Not sure if they have a Modernism Week event yet, as they’ve only been around for a year, but man do they have a wide variety of entertainment. Not just relegated to musicals, dramas, and new works, the Revolution brings in cabaret acts from all over the country, and gave us a couple of knockout shows last season. Make sure to check out their website.

 If you’re looking to sample some of Palm Springs local eateries, book Desert Tasty Tours and tell them I sent you. It’s a three-hour walking and eating tour covering four blocks of downtown Palm Springs. You get a little history (downtown is lousy with it), visit Marilyn, drink a couple of cocktails, and leave with a very full belly.

About eight years ago, the owners of the Camelot Theatre (built in the 1960s and the first cineplex in Palm Springs, still with the biggest screen and the best technical abilities in the Coachella Valley) donated the building to the Palm Springs Cultural Center, who turned it into a terrific entertainment complex while still retaining the original blueprint. They’re the premiere spot for film festivals, and it’s where the International Film Fest was born. So, check out the schedule; they’ll have some Modernism Week programming. They are also the home to two theatre companies, and five days a week have live entertainment for happy hour upstairs from 5 to 7 p.m. (look for The Mod Squad — so much fun!).

And that’s what’s cracking. Make sure to make reservations and your trip will go from 18-carat to platinum, pussycat.

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The Avanti Hotel: Privacy for you — and your pets

At the Avanti Hotel, the guest experience is of utmost importance. Owner Jim Rutledge ensures that he knows where visitors are traveling from and what they enjoy doing, in order to offer recommendations and keep the hotel safe and secure.

Owner Jim Rutledge loves dogs, and goes out of his way to make their stay comfortable — at check in, they receive a bag with a pool towel, sheet for the bed, water bowl, and snacks.

“We very much enjoy having them,” Jim said, adding that hundreds of dogs have stayed at the hotel since its opening. These special guests can be spotted on the Instagram page Dogs of Avanti.

Of course, their owners are also treated well at the Avanti, a 10-room mid-century modern hotel that was built in 1954. There are no resort fees, and guests can take complimentary cruisers for a spin and relax at happy hour and an extended continental breakfast. Because it’s such an intimate hotel, Jim gets to know all of his guests, and he estimates that nearly 50 percent of his patrons are repeats.

“We like to get to know our guests, and where they’re from and what they like to do,” he said. “We get to meet people from all around the world who come here.”

Jim and his brother-in-law purchased the property in the early 2010s, after both took buy outs from their corporate jobs. They started from scratch, even coming up with a new name, and Jim, originally from Seattle, was excited to be in a town he was already familiar with.

“I’ve loved Palm Springs and had been coming here for years,” he said.

For guests who enjoy meeting new people, the pool is a natural gathering place, but there are also hideaways for those who want to have some solo time.

“The rooms have private patios, and you can hang out there and read a book,” Jim said.

One of the Avanti’s biggest draws is its security. There is a locked gate, and Jim has a video doorbell, so he can see who is coming and going and he doesn’t have to let people in who don’t belong.

“I know who is in my hotel,” he said. “We have repeat guests, and single women, who know about the safety factor and they love it. They know that when they come in, the door is locked behind them and no one can come in. I know all of the guests, and people who stay here for two or more nights get to know the other guests, and they all recognize each other.”

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Small Town Living, Big Town Shopping

“I always say, shopping is cheaper than a psychiatrist.” — Tammy Faye Bakker Messner

People tend to think of Palm Springs as a place to go and relax by the pool with a cocktail, and it totally is — however, when you leave the luxury of your small boutique hotel, adventures in shopping await.

Don’t believe me? Tammy Faye Bakker Messner and her scandal-of-an-ex-husband had two homes in Palm Springs, one of them in Movie Colony. According to the Los Angeles Times, she was well known for her frequent shopping sprees in the posh clothing and jewelry stores of Palm Springs. That was back in the mid- to late-1980s. Imagine how much it’s grown since then? (You don’t have to — I’m going to tell you!)

These days we have the very visible The Block, an amalgamation of high-end stores from Tahquitz to Museum Way (here’s a great little map of the area). If you’re looking for a distinctive gift to make friends and family feel special, you need to shop outside of the big box. So, let’s venture across the street from the commerciality of the big brands and take a leisurely doggie paddle toward the treasure trove of unique boutiques teeming with the panache of our friendly shop owners who will add an extra dash of holiday cheer to your day. 

They are always available to help you find that perfect gift, or that perfect outfit that puts a big fat smile on your face. (Browsing is perfectly fine, too.) There are a LOT of local retailers, and it’s hard to list every one, so I’ve done a bit of pre-sorting for you with a few links that can get you to the right stores for the category in which you’re looking to purchase. 

Clothing and Accessories Stores

Gifts, Accessories, Collectibles

Specialty Food and Wine

Pets

Art, Galleries, and Supplies 

Collage by Kay Kudukis

If you’re into finding shops on your own, the best tip I can offer is to make sure you duck down into the side streets and a few little alleyways that have their own enclave, like the shops around the corner from men’s store Frank Clothier and celebrity favorite Crystal Fantasy.

We also have a toffee shop, Brandini’s, near the historic Plaza Theater. They have a terrific story and out-of-this-world toffee creations. Absolutely worth the calories.

Along the way are coffeehouses galore, and delightful lunch spots where you can meet or regroup with friends, or if you’re a lone wolf, relax in a sunny spot and plan the rest of your shopping spree. 

Collage by Kay Kudukis

There’s also the Corridor, just north of Alejo on Palm Canyon Drive. It’s a great place to grab a coffee or a bite to eat, enjoy the artwork, then do a little side shopping at Jill’s and Absolutely Fabulous.

Speaking of fabulous, check out the uptown Design District at Palm Canyon Galleria. It’s chock full of vintage high-end wares and home furnishings and many carry numerous mid-century and vintage items. Get a load of Bon Vivant with its vintage glass and jewelry, Froelick Gallery, and more. Inventory has included Blenko glass, vintage Tiffany jewelry, Bakelite pieces, Murano and Ikebana vases, Marbro lamps, Raymor pottery, a Bjorn Windblad porcelain bowl, and pieces by Palm Springs artists. Regular hours are Thursday through Monday. 

If you’re into vintage jewelry and have a few hundred Hamiltons to spend, try Gallerie24, local designer Carlos King’s boutique (by appointment only). On Indian Canyon are a few cool spots, specifically the Mojave Trading Post, where local crafters have their own mini-shops with wondrous things. And because Palm Springs is associated with retro and vintage items, here is a nice little list of all things antique-y:

Home Furnishings and More

Antique Galleries of Palm Springs
505 Industrial Pl.

Sunny Dunes Antique Mall
507 E Sunny Dunes Rd.

Little Shop of Treasures
616 E Sunny Dunes Rd.

Aida’s Antiques
401 Industrial Pl. S

Victoria’s Attic Antique Mall
798 N Palm Canyon Dr.

a La MOD INC
886 N Palm Canyon Dr.

Porter & Plunk
3500 E Tachevah Dr. Ste. H

Vintage Clothing

Iconic Atomic
1103 N Palm Canyon Dr.

Mitchells Palm Springs
106 S Indian Canyon Dr.

The Frippery
664 N Palm Canyon Dr. 

Vintage PS Gal
798 N. Palm Canyon Dr. #VPSG

That’s it for me this year. Hope to see you at one of our cool resorts or walking down our festive streets — I’ll be the one in the mask. Cheers to 2022!

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The Cole Palm Springs Is Leading The Way In Tech-Forward Hospitality

The pool at The Cole Hotel surrounded by blue and white chaise loungers

Modernism and technology have come together to offer a unique experience at The Cole Palm Springs. The hotel is operated by Sonder, a hospitality management company that utilizes an innovative approach here and in more than 40 cities worldwide.

Sonder was founded on the principle that you can get anything from your mobile phone. You can find rooms and even loft apartments for short-term rentals and make reservations, and are sent an access code on the day of arrival.

At The Cole Palm Springs, check-in time is 4 p.m., and you can come in and swim or find a quiet corner to read in the courtyard until your room is prepared. Once it’s ready, you will receive a text with a code that opens your room’s door. At The Cole, you are instantly transported back to the ’60s, with the rooms artfully decorated by design experts who have incorporated replicas of items that would have been used during the Modernism period.

As you look around the space, you will see a retro mini-bar refrigerator and Victrola Bluetooth stereo. Be sure to look out the window — you’ll likely have a magnificent view of our mountains, which proudly surround our beautiful valley.

The view of the pool from a room at The Cole Hotel in Palm Springs

A typical view from one of the spacious rooms at The Cole Palm Springs. Photo by Kathy Condon

What does a hotel managed by Sonder look like?

On the table on the far wall is a card with a QR code, which, when opened, provides you with several pieces of information, including the number to reach someone on the grounds (they are on call 24 hours) and a code for more towels. There’s also instructions for the television and coffee pot, a list of attractions you might want to check out during your stay in Palm Springs (we have much more happening than just playing golf and sitting around a swimming pool), and the menu and hours of operation for Freddie’s Kitchen at The Cole. By the way, locals are giving this on-site restaurant rave reviews for its excellent food.

There are a couple of things you also should be aware of when staying at The Cole: this is an adults-only hotel, dogs are not allowed, and there is a charge of $15 per day for parking.

A blue door

The Cole has several one-of-a-kind doors. Photo by Nadine Conger

Who developed Sonder?

Co-founder and CEO Francis Davidson’s vision was created over time. It began when he started managing apartments, and kept seeing the same patterns and issues repeating. By recording those issues and matching travelers’ needs, he was able to create a new plan for managing short-term rentals. Sonder was officially formed in Montreal in 2014, with the help of Martin Picard, now the company’s chief real estate officer.

Sonder’s mission is to “redefine hospitality by bringing exceptional stays everywhere,” and they are doing this by utilizing the technology of a mobile phone;  developing relationships with world-class architects and designers to ensure each space meets the established high standards; minimizing the company’s environmental footprint (for example, single-use plastic has been eliminated from all properties); and offering 24/7 support and easy check-in and check-out.

Palm Springs looks back at its history through Modernism Week each year. The Cole represents that period, with its décor that harkens back to the era. However, with the help of Sonder, it is among the most forward-thinking, technology-run hotels in the Coachella Valley.

The sign in front of The Cole Hotel in Palm Springs

Your sign that you’ve arrived at The Cole Hotel in Palm Springs. Photo by Nadine Conger

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Viewing Public Art in Palm Springs on Foot

Wake up in Palm Springs with the sun gloriously shining and grab your glamorous floppy hat, recyclable water bottle, and sunglasses. It doesn’t matter if the museums are closed because there’s so much fabulous public art to explore in Palm Springs.

Start your walking tour in the Uptown Design District on North Palm Canyon.

First Stop – Palm Springs Desert Art Center

The center for Palm Springs creative arts is the Desert Art Center at 550 N Palm Canyon Dr, Palm Springs, CA 92262. Often overlooked, this grand building is the home for numerous art classes, exhibits, and theatre performances. One of our city’s latest art installations is on the Desert Center’s palatial grass-covered lawn.

MIDABI is an artist and philosopher focused on large-scale public art using text in sculptures and murals. Residing in Palm Springs since 1998, with family roots going back to the 1950s, MIDABI continues a family tradition of contributing artistically to the desert.

Large, bold, and thought-provoking, MIDABI creates works of art that seek to inspire and challenge the viewer to think for themselves and see reality differently. One may feel shaken, for emotional core values may be questioned.

Since you have your walking shoes on, head on down Palm Canyon; along the way, you will see colorful benches to rest upon, which our local artists created.

Second Stop – Koffi North

If you want to have a cup of coffee, you might want to stop at Koffi North. Be sure to go straight through the store to the back and see the courtyard. The locals hang out here during non-Covid times.

Third Stop – Near the Palm Springs Art Museum

Now that your energy is restored, head down to Museum Way and turn right.

Before you get to the Palm Springs Art Museum and located in what we locals call the “Sand Pit,” (and future home of an underground parking lot) are ten sculptures, 11 ft long X 9-foot fiberglass babies. A barcode replaces any semblance of a face.

Czech artist David Cerny has loaned this art installation to Palm Springs through 2022. He wanted to make a statement about the dehumanization of society due to big tech and data. We are betting you will have an opinion.

Check out the wall on your left as you overlook the Sand Pit. You’ll spot a mural by Santa Monica artist, Peter Tigler, who worked with attendees of all ages to create this 7-foot-tall-by15-wide mural at the Annual La Quinta Arts Festival in 2019. Look closely; it was created by finger painting. The bright colors and numerous scenes invoke the sense of “Wish you were here.” It’s a great place to take a selfie to post your social media.

Fourth Stop – Graffiti Park

Across the street from the Sand Pit is our Graffiti Park. While waiting for the area to be developed, artists are encouraged to express themselves through their art. The various cement pillars and stones, remnants of past construction, serve as canvases. The art is constantly changing, so be sure to come back and see it on your next visit.

Fifth Stop – Right Side of Palm Springs Art Museum

The Palm Springs Art Museum is closed, but the parking lot holds a surprise. Check out the Road Signs scattered throughout the premises. They were created by artist Gerald Clark, who identifies himself first as an artist; and secondly, a Cahuilla Indian.

These Road Signs were created for an exhibit of his work in the Palm Springs Art Museum a couple of years ago. Walk to the museum’s right side first, then see the rest of them on the museum’s left side.

Sixth Stop – Left Side of the Palm Springs Art Museum

After you have pursued both sides of the museum, you will see a large semi-truck parked in the parking lot. In the semi is a three-story all-metal house, called the Aluminare House, designed by Albert Frey and A. Lawrence Kocher. The house was donated to the Palm Springs Art Museum for its permanent collection and will be reassembled in 2021. It is considered to be one of the most outstanding examples of Modernist architecture in the world.

We hope you have enjoyed this tour of some of our public art. There are many more installations–both inside and outside–scattered throughout the city. However, we wanted to give you a small taste of the many treasures that await your visit to Palm Springs.

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The Triangle Inn Owners are Nearing a Milestone Anniversary: 20 Years in Palm Springs

The front entrance of Triangle Inn Palm Springs has a brick wall with its name in large black letters

For Michael Green, the past two decades feel like they’ve gone by in the blink of an eye.

Michael and his husband Stephen Boyd own The Triangle Inn (https://www.palmspringspreferredsmallhotels.com/stay/triangle-inn-palm-springs), a gay men’s clothing-optional resort, having purchased the property in January 2000. They bought the hotel after spending their careers in advertising, embracing the opportunity to try something new. Now, nearly 20 years later, Michael can’t believe they’ve been hoteliers for so long.

Michael and Stephen have created such a welcoming atmosphere that it’s inspired several guests to actually move to Palm Springs.

People often ask them if they’re tired of running their own business, or want to try something new. “To me, as long as we still enjoy it, we should keep doing it,” Michael says. “It’s great owning a small hotel. It’s a lot of work, but it’s also a great lifestyle.”

The Triangle Inn was built in 1958, and Michael and Stephen are its fifth owners. They’ve been through renovations and upgrades, and are always doing something to enhance the property. Along the way, they’ve made tons of friends, and have created such a welcoming atmosphere that it’s inspired several guests to actually move to Palm Springs.

“It’s what happens when people come and fall in love with the hotel, fall in love with the city,” Michael says. “All of a sudden, they think, wow, we need to have a part-time place here, or retire here. That has really been a phenomenon that has fueled a lot of Palm Springs’ resurgence.”
 

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Palm Springs Benches Enhanced with Art

Can you take a dark-brown cement bench and turn it into art while still maintaining its function for resting or people-watching? The answer in Palm Springs is an unequivocal, yes.

Mainstreet Palm Springs’ Downtown and Uptown Business Association have upgraded the benches throughout the entire area thanks to a grant by the Palm Springs Art Commission. Local artists, representing  the culture and diversity of  the valley, were each paid a stipend for giving a new look and life to 70 benches, including 8 at the Palm Springs International Airport.

Initially, local artist Tysen Knight was commissioned to paint ten benches to test the concept. And they were a big hit. Functional and eye-catching, the colorful benches became the focus of many visitors’ photos. With the success of the first phase, phase two was approved.

Each bench looks like this before it receives its new life. As you can see, the artists have a blank canvas to design and apply their art.

A before shot of the plain brown benches have been transformed by local artists.

A before shot of the plain brown benches have been transformed by local artists.

Here are examples of the benches created by our local artists from our culturally diverse community.

Abe Alvarez Tostado

Abe Alvarez Tostado colorful bench in Palm Springs evokes community heart and unity.

A resident of Yucca Valley. In his younger years, he was interested in comics. Then with his Mom, who was an artist, he started going to art galleries. His artistic talents were encouraged by friends that surrounded him at Long Beach, California. He has painted murals in San Francisco, Long Beach, Los Angeles, San Diego, and Palm Springs for over 30 years. 

Susan Gresto

Artist Susan Gresto’s bench in iconic Palm Springs hues of oranges and blues features free-spirited winged humans greeting one another.

A resident of Palm Springs. It brings her great joy to mentor students, support community art programs. Her work has been exhibited and sold at the Palm Springs Art Museum Store, University of California Riverside, the Community Gallery at Palm Desert City Hall, Indio Senior Center, and CREATE Center for the Arts Palm Desert.  

Tim J Leary

Tim Leary created a bold geometric and linear bench design.

A resident of Indio.  His work as a visual merchandiser spanned 28 years and three states: Florida, Connecticut, and California. After moving to San Francisco, he completed his formal education, studying spirituality and art, and art therapy. He has a studio in the Backstreet Art District in Palm Springs.

Jessica Frederic

A bright lime-green bench with palm fronds and yellow and black birds came to life by artist Jessyca Frederick.

A resident of La Quinta. After years of searching, she now uses her creativity and problem-solving skills to create art. With encouragement from friends and artists, this bench is her first piece of public art.

Paul Kole

Paul Kole created a word-art bench with a bright white background and multi-colored letters that remind visitors of the joys found in Palm Springs.

He resides in Orange County, Palm Springs, Arizona, and International resort stay-cations. His abstract work on wood and other materials are in the United States and international collections. He has a working studio in Palm Desert, California.

Stroll up and down Canyon Drive to see these creative benches. They most certainly will bring a smile to your face. Oh, if you need to stop and rest, be our guest, and remember, we have great people-watching in Palm Springs.

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Instagrammable Palm Springs Spot. The Monkey Tree Hotel

By Diana Elizabeth Steffen

I discovered one of the most Instagrammable spots in Palm Springs. 

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Families Gather Safely and Happily at Small Hotels

Vibe Style and Design

One of the biggest challenges we’ve faced during this ongoing pandemic is gathering our families in a safe setting. So here is a great idea. When we are allowed to safely travel again, why not consider bringing your family to one of the lovely small boutique hotels in the Palm Springs?

Recently, representatives from several of these hotels shared their experiences and thoughts with me about planning gatherings of families and close friends.

Many of these hotels encourage guests to buy out the entire hotel. There are many advantages to a buyout, such as knowing you are with a familiar group (your own “bubble”) while not interacting with strangers. You can also relax with confidence knowing that the hotels have taken all kinds of protective measures so that your stay is safe. At the same time, you can enjoy the beautiful Palm Springs setting.

Since the start of the pandemic, Dive (playfully decorated in a St. Tropez style) has hosted more than a dozen gatherings of families and close friends. Like many small hotels, it is well designed to accommodate small groups. Guests can enjoy spacious outdoor gardens, pools, multiple lounging areas, and fountains spread across a half-acre lot, making socially distancing easy and comfortable. Dive, which has 11 rooms, welcomes small groups, but if you need more than five rooms, the hotel requires a full buyout, which means you would have exclusive access to the property and a dedicated staff for support.

The Weekend, a small, mid-century modern hotel, where I have stayed and which I love, has ten deluxe suites, most with two bedrooms and two baths, along with living rooms, kitchens, and patios.  During the pandemic, the owners prefer that the entire hotel be bought out so you will not encounter other guests besides your family members.

One advantage at The Weekend and most other small boutique hotels is there are no hallways or elevators and the rooms open directly to the pool so there are plenty of opportunities for social distancing.

Both Hotel El Cid and The Marley (sister hotels) are private boutique hotels that rent to only one group at a time so they are perfect for families or close friends. They are also lovingly decorated and totally luxurious. The Marley has nine bedrooms and El Cid has seven bedrooms.  Both hotels are completely walled and gated for total privacy. Each hotel has full kitchens that allow guests to cook for themselves or groups can bring in professional chefs

Dining options are varied but ample at most of the small hotels. The Weekend delivers a lavish continental breakfast to each suite every morning. Their suites have a kitchen (no stove) with a full-sized refrigerator, ice maker, and four-seat dining room table. At Dive, two amazing chefs are available to support whatever dining needs guests have. In addition, each guest receives a complimentary organic breakfast each morning. During the current Covid situation, all food and drinks are served in single-use containers to ensure guests’ safety.

The safety and well-being of guests are the top priorities at the PSPSH hotels. Each hotel has enhanced cleaning and sanitizing procedures in place. All staff members are equipped with proper PPE — sanitizers, gloves, and masks. At The Weekend, staff members have daily temperature checks.  At all the hotels, guests are asked to wear masks coming and going from the hotel and to socially distance while relaxing at poolside. Outside visitors are not allowed.

So many of us have been mostly confined to our own homes for the last many months and, if you are like me, you are chomping at the bit to get out and start traveling again. Staying at a small boutique hotel is an ideal way to reconnect with close family members and friends while enjoying a luxurious setting in a fabulous location. Even if you live close to Palm Springs, you will feel as if you have really gotten away. Just go to the PSPSH website to find out when hotels are open and then you can explore the many enticing options for small groups in Palm Springs.

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