Enjoy this video tour of the men’s clothing optional Triangle Inn Palm Springs with hotelier, Michael Green. This historical mid-century modern resort was originally the Impala Lodge designed by the legendary Hugh Kaptor.
Twice a year, Palm Springs celebrates its architectural roots. We don’t go all the way back to colonial times because we don’t have them; back then California was part of Mexico. Europeans began “settling” here in the mid-1800s with the exception of the Spaniards, who’d been stomping all over California and beyond since the days of Montezuma (1500s). And before that? Native Americans lived here for thousands of years.
Back in the mid-1800s, the U.S. government gave land to the Southern Pacific Railroad, which used it to entice people out west with a promise of land — for a price. That money would help them bring the railroad out west. East Coast Europeans started showing up in the mid-1800s, and by 1890 they had a hotel, The Palm Springs Hotel.
It took about 25 years for Palm Springs to become known for its health benefits, including the healing dry air and the hot springs (agua caliente). This was thanks to the arrival of Nellie Coffman in 1909, who made her Desert Inn the place to visit in Palm Springs.
And then came the celebrities. Just a two-hour drive (back then) from the studios in Los Angeles, it was exactly the contractually allowed time and distance actors were allowed from their respective studios. An added bonus? Paparazzi were not paid for trips over 100 miles. And bingo, the sexcapades were in full swing.
Every single decade from then on has stories about celebrities here in Palm Springs. Many of them were buying vacation homes, and architects were starting to sit up and take notice of the desertscapes and what they could accomplish here.
And now we’re at Modernism Week, the celebration of all of those guys who came here and turned Palm Springs into a mid-century modern architectural paradise (along with our other paradise qualities!).
So, here’s what you can expect Oct. 19-22: 50 events! What?? You can make just as hearty of a meal out of all things Modernism in October as you can at the February bonanza. Let’s have a look-see!
It’s my party!
Cocktail parties: There’s two. Sinatra always sells out, I think before it even hits the internet. Okay, that’s not true, but you know what I mean. The second one looks to be fun as well, so book it, Danno!
Preview party: This is the first soiree and the biggest.
Lizzie and the Triggermen: Called “one of the hottest swing bands in L.A.” by Good Day L.A., Lizzy & The Triggermen has been making waves since bursting onto the SoCal scene.
Mixology cocktail clinics: Held at Mr. Lyon’s, one of Palm Springs most iconic fine dining restaurants. Oct. 19, 20, 21, 22, with two time slots at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m.
Mid-Century Moderns is not on the schedule of official MW activities, but absolutely worth the price of the ticket. It’s a very fun jukebox musical, not for the faint of heart. Begins Oct. 6 on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, with multiple showtimes including a 2 p.m. matinee for after brunch.
Cruising through town
Bus tours — There are a ton of them, and this year they’ve divided them all up by neighborhood. All are a good time, and there is even a twilight tour where certain buildings are beautifully lit to show off their architecture. It’s pretty cool. I am a guide on one of those this fall.
A Modernism Week bus tour. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs
Here are the (other, heh heh) celebrity tour guides:
Charles Phoenix: Mid-century pop culture expert Charles Phoenix is a performer, author, explorer, and collector celebrating classic and kitschy American life and style, who has appeared on Jay Leno’s Garage and Conan and been a judge on Cake Wars Christmas and Nailed It.
He’s known for the Big Retro Trailer Slide Show. Lavishing commentary on the very best images from his massive collection of vintage “flea market found” Kodachrome slides, he shares a wide variety of spectacular scenes, décor, classic cars, festive fashions, potlucks, parties, parades, and picturesque locations.
Bella da Ball: Bella is our ambassador drag queen; she stands 6’4” tall without heels. Heavily involved in Pride, and many other activities, Bella also hosts Drag Queen Bingo & Trivia at the Ace Hotel on Monday nights. She recently resumed her Drag Queen Storytime at Palm Springs Library, and we couldn’t be happier to have her back.
Here are a few places I’ve always wanted to see:
Frey House II — Albert Frey had a unique understanding of function, form, practicality, and love for the desert landscape, all combined to provide us this extraordinary legacy. It includes a free day at the Art Museum, and a ride on a bus up to the property. If you go, tell me about it please!
Frank Sinatra’s Twin Palm Estates — Frank owned a lot of houses here in the desert, but this is the one that used to have his own plane out back, and where he used to hoist a flag to let friends and neighbors know it was cocktail hour. It’s also where he lived and fought with Ava Gardner.
Some of these tickets require deep pockets, but there are also free events you can attend and still feel all mid-mod-y.
Free events
Friday, Oct. 20
9 a.m. “Lost, Saved & Endangered: Modernist Architecture in Palm Springs”: Palm Springs Preservation Foundation board president Gary Johns will present his popular slide lecture, “Lost, Saved & Endangered: Modernist Architecture in Palm Springs.” At Palm Springs Cultural Center, 2300 E Baristo Rd., Palm Springs.
11 a.m. The Design of Herbert W. Burns: Palm Springs Preservation Foundation board vice president Steven Keylon will present an entertaining overview of architectural designer Herbert W. Burns’ life and career. At the Palm Springs Cultural Center.
A quick note on the Cultural Center. With everything it offers, it’s gearing up to be a major presence in Palm Springs. It was also built in 1967 as the first cineplex in Palm Springs.
The Three Fifty Hotel was designed by Herbert W. Burns. Photo courtesy of The Three Fifty Hotel
Saturday, Oct. 21
9 a.m. Hot Purple Energy Architectural Bike Ride: Join us as we pedal our way through architecturally significant neighborhoods in South Palm Springs and highlight mid-century homes. Indian Canyons Golf Resort Clubhouse parking lot, 1100 E. Murray Canyon Dr., Palm Springs.
This is a terrific area to explore. The two golf courses are gorgeous, and Lykken Trail is on South Palm Canyon and Murray Drive. The Walt Disney Fountain is here as are some mid-century homes that you can see on one of the bus tours (there used to be an app for $5 with all of the architecturally significant spots in P.S. on them, so do a Google). Make sure to grab breakfast or lunch at the Indian Canyon Clubhouses, and then drive through the Indian Canyons neighborhood.
If you’re a hiker, Lykken Trail dumps onto South Palm Canyon just past Murray Canyon, and if you keep going down South Palm Canyon, you’ll hit one of the greatest hiking spots in Palm Springs: the actual Indian Canyons Reserve.
2 p.m. The Alexanders book signing with author James Harlan: James Harlan will also give a talk about the famous Palm Springs developers. Palm Springs Historical Society, The McCallum Adobe, 221 S. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs.
The Palm Springs Historical Society is located in the Village Green next to Cornelia White’s home, which was relocated from where it was first built, at The Palm Springs Hotel. It’s also across the street from Lulu, the best people watching spot in town.
4 to 9 p.m. Shag’s October Modernism Print Release Party: Join artist Shag and guest Nancy Sinatra for a book signing and print release party at The Shag Store, featuring complimentary cocktails, live music, and other fun surprises. The Shag Store, 745 N. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs.
The Shag Store — I’ve never gone in because I’d feel like an imposter; I can’t afford a Shag piece, but it’s a party and everyone’s invited!!
Sunday, Oct. 22
8 a.m. to Noon. Modernism Yard Sale: Brought to you by Chris Bale Homes and hosted by H3K Home+Design, this annual sale has become one of Modernism Week’s most popular FREE events! H3K is high-end, but on the more affordable end. H3K Design+Home parking lot, 501 S. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs.
Here’s a link to all the rest. Use the sorting function and “category” to help you get just where your little heart desires. And you’re gonna need a place to stay, right? Here’s a list of the nearly 80 boutique hotels in Palm Springs; if you’re looking for something mid-century modern, or even more old-timey, you can use that sorting button to find your perfect stay.
I’ll be waving at you from the top of my bus!
The Orbit In is a perfect example of mid-century modern architecture and design. Photo courtesy of Orbit In
Norma and Ron Van Meeteren didn’t set out to own and operate a hotel, but in October 1999, the couple found themselves embarking on an exciting journey now in its 20th year.
At the time, Norma and Ron had been selling real estate and doing property management in Palm Springs for 16 years. They learned about a property that was going to be converted into a hospice but had fallen out of escrow. Most of the units were like apartments, with living rooms, bedrooms, full kitchens, and private walled garden patios, and since the Van Meeterens were experts in residential income properties and had clients looking for apartment buildings, they arranged a meeting with the seller.
“To make a long story short, ten days later we were the proud new owners,” Norma said. “It’s been quite the journey, but our exceptional staff and happy guests make it all worth it.”
A mid-century boutique inn, A Place in the Sun Garden Hotel was built in 1951 as a retreat for the production crew working on the movie A Place in the Sun, starring Elizabeth Taylor, Shelley Winters, and Montgomery Clift.
“We get to meet so many interesting people, from all walks of life.”
The property has 18 units, with standard studios, one-bedroom bungalows with kitchens, living rooms, and private patios, and a 1,300-square-foot two-bedroom, two-bathroom bungalow with a large kitchen, fireplace, and private jacuzzi. There is free fast internet, a heated saltwater pool, spa, artificial turf putting green, and a poolside gazebo with misters and heaters.
For Norma, getting to know the people who stay at A Place in the Sun is the best part of owning such a unique property.
“So many come back again and again, year after year, and it’s like welcoming back friends,” she said. “Many have happy memories of coming to A Place in the Sun as a child, and now are grown and bringing children of their own. We get to meet so many interesting people, from all walks of life.”
By Katie Carrier
Palm Springs boasts a treasure trove of small hotels with big style that are ideal for guests seeking the perfect Instagram moment. Holiday House Palm Springs is one of the more recent additions to these local offerings, featuring an eye-catching blue and white design motif with pops of red.
Holiday House was originally designed in the 1950s by Herbert Berns, with strong midcentury lines and architectural details that were emblematic of the period. The hotel, located in downtown Palm Springs, was redesigned and relaunched in 2017 after an extensive makeover by renowned interior designer Mark D. Sikes, who is known for his signature blue and white color palette.
Each of the property’s 28 rooms feature unique combinations of patterned wallpaper, textiles and furnishings, as well as an impressive art collection that includes works by John Baldessari, Roy Lichtenstein, David Hockney and Alex Katz. The lawn adjacent to the hotel’s pool features a large Donald Sultan sculpture called “Red Poppies” that is one of the popular Instagram-friendly features on the property.
The blue and white striped furniture on the patio is another great spot for a snap for the ‘gram, surrounded by lush banana leaves and mature fruit trees. The hotel also offers fun amenities on site that are just begging for a social media shoutout, including a huge pool, blue and white polka dot bicycles that are available for guests to use and an original shuffleboard court.
The hotel lobby is also full of Instagram gold, including the “library,” which is covered in a striking blue pattern on every surface, an oversized David Hockney Sumo book, and the bar, which has a catchy neon art piece that makes a frequent appearance on social media.
The hotel’s cocktails are also super Instagrammable, featuring fun garnishes and swizzle sticks that make for the perfect poolside drink-in-hand pose!
Holiday House features one of the more unique dining experiences in the desert, with a family-style fried chicken dinner held each Friday night that is open to both hotel guests and the general public. Attendees dine al fresco at a beautifully-decorated long table, enjoying the delicious culinary creations of Chef Gabe Woo. Cantina Tuesdays are another great time to visit Holiday House, with gourmet Mexican fare and margaritas served a la carte in the patio dining area.
If you’re an Instagram fan, you will definitely want to experience Holiday House Palm Springs soon! Be sure to also stay tuned as we explore other great Instagram-friendly small hotels in Palm Springs in a new series of blog posts coming out each month.
Modernism and technology have come together to offer a unique experience at The Cole Palm Springs. The hotel is operated by Sonder, a hospitality management company that utilizes an innovative approach here and in more than 40 cities worldwide.
Sonder was founded on the principle that you can get anything from your mobile phone. You can find rooms and even loft apartments for short-term rentals and make reservations, and are sent an access code on the day of arrival.
At The Cole Palm Springs, check-in time is 4 p.m., and you can come in and swim or find a quiet corner to read in the courtyard until your room is prepared. Once it’s ready, you will receive a text with a code that opens your room’s door. At The Cole, you are instantly transported back to the ’60s, with the rooms artfully decorated by design experts who have incorporated replicas of items that would have been used during the Modernism period.
As you look around the space, you will see a retro mini-bar refrigerator and Victrola Bluetooth stereo. Be sure to look out the window — you’ll likely have a magnificent view of our mountains, which proudly surround our beautiful valley.
A typical view from one of the spacious rooms at The Cole Palm Springs. Photo by Kathy Condon
What does a hotel managed by Sonder look like?
On the table on the far wall is a card with a QR code, which, when opened, provides you with several pieces of information, including the number to reach someone on the grounds (they are on call 24 hours) and a code for more towels. There’s also instructions for the television and coffee pot, a list of attractions you might want to check out during your stay in Palm Springs (we have much more happening than just playing golf and sitting around a swimming pool), and the menu and hours of operation for Freddie’s Kitchen at The Cole. By the way, locals are giving this on-site restaurant rave reviews for its excellent food.
There are a couple of things you also should be aware of when staying at The Cole: this is an adults-only hotel, dogs are not allowed, and there is a charge of $15 per day for parking.
The Cole has several one-of-a-kind doors. Photo by Nadine Conger
Who developed Sonder?
Co-founder and CEO Francis Davidson’s vision was created over time. It began when he started managing apartments, and kept seeing the same patterns and issues repeating. By recording those issues and matching travelers’ needs, he was able to create a new plan for managing short-term rentals. Sonder was officially formed in Montreal in 2014, with the help of Martin Picard, now the company’s chief real estate officer.
Sonder’s mission is to “redefine hospitality by bringing exceptional stays everywhere,” and they are doing this by utilizing the technology of a mobile phone; developing relationships with world-class architects and designers to ensure each space meets the established high standards; minimizing the company’s environmental footprint (for example, single-use plastic has been eliminated from all properties); and offering 24/7 support and easy check-in and check-out.
Palm Springs looks back at its history through Modernism Week each year. The Cole represents that period, with its décor that harkens back to the era. However, with the help of Sonder, it is among the most forward-thinking, technology-run hotels in the Coachella Valley.
Your sign that you’ve arrived at The Cole Hotel in Palm Springs. Photo by Nadine Conger
With its tropical courtyard and mature palms, BelleVue Oasis is a hidden paradise in Palm Springs.
A mid-century modern property dating back to the 1950s, BelleVue Oasis officially opened for business in September 2019. Formerly Escape Resort, it is no longer a men’s clothing-optional hotel.
Located in Tahquitz River Estates, the 13-room, 21-and-over hotel has undergone some renovations and updates, including to the bathrooms. It has a retro yet modern feel, with pops of orange and turquoise standing out against the clean white walls and linens. The rooms come with kitchens or kitchenettes, plus furnished patios that let guests enjoy the sunshine.
The lush grounds are what inspired the hotel’s new name, with senior hotel manager Charles Zalepeski saying once you walk onto the property, “it’s kind of shocking, you don’t expect it to be as beautiful and as big as it is. The pool is beautiful, and the mountain views are ridiculous.”
The San Jacinto Mountains are visible across the grounds, but are most spectacular when spotted from the spacious and sparkling pool and invigorating jacuzzi. There are loungers and umbrellas surrounding the pool, offering shade during the day. Once guests are ready to explore the town, they won’t have to go far — places like the Moorten Botanical Garden and Cactarium and Palm Springs Art Museum are just a short walk or drive away.
By Nicole Anderson, Modern Magazine
If Palm Springs is synonymous with modern architecture, then Modernism Week is the celebration of Modern Palm Springs. Several boutique hotels, including The Triangle Inn Palm Springs, L’Horizon Palm Springs, and The Monkey Tree offer stellar examples of the mid-century aesthetic. Nicole Anderson’s piece for Modern Magazine, beautifully summarizes the appeal of Palm Springs mid-century architecture.
Can you take a dark-brown cement bench and turn it into art while still maintaining its function for resting or people-watching? The answer in Palm Springs is an unequivocal, yes.
Mainstreet Palm Springs’ Downtown and Uptown Business Association have upgraded the benches throughout the entire area thanks to a grant by the Palm Springs Art Commission. Local artists, representing the culture and diversity of the valley, were each paid a stipend for giving a new look and life to 70 benches, including 8 at the Palm Springs International Airport.
Initially, local artist Tysen Knight was commissioned to paint ten benches to test the concept. And they were a big hit. Functional and eye-catching, the colorful benches became the focus of many visitors’ photos. With the success of the first phase, phase two was approved.
Each bench looks like this before it receives its new life. As you can see, the artists have a blank canvas to design and apply their art.
A before shot of the plain brown benches have been transformed by local artists.
Here are examples of the benches created by our local artists from our culturally diverse community.
Abe Alvarez Tostado
Abe Alvarez Tostado colorful bench in Palm Springs evokes community heart and unity.
A resident of Yucca Valley. In his younger years, he was interested in comics. Then with his Mom, who was an artist, he started going to art galleries. His artistic talents were encouraged by friends that surrounded him at Long Beach, California. He has painted murals in San Francisco, Long Beach, Los Angeles, San Diego, and Palm Springs for over 30 years.
Susan Gresto
Artist Susan Gresto’s bench in iconic Palm Springs hues of oranges and blues features free-spirited winged humans greeting one another.
A resident of Palm Springs. It brings her great joy to mentor students, support community art programs. Her work has been exhibited and sold at the Palm Springs Art Museum Store, University of California Riverside, the Community Gallery at Palm Desert City Hall, Indio Senior Center, and CREATE Center for the Arts Palm Desert.
Tim J Leary
Tim Leary created a bold geometric and linear bench design.
A resident of Indio. His work as a visual merchandiser spanned 28 years and three states: Florida, Connecticut, and California. After moving to San Francisco, he completed his formal education, studying spirituality and art, and art therapy. He has a studio in the Backstreet Art District in Palm Springs.
Jessica Frederic
A bright lime-green bench with palm fronds and yellow and black birds came to life by artist Jessyca Frederick.
A resident of La Quinta. After years of searching, she now uses her creativity and problem-solving skills to create art. With encouragement from friends and artists, this bench is her first piece of public art.
Paul Kole
Paul Kole created a word-art bench with a bright white background and multi-colored letters that remind visitors of the joys found in Palm Springs.
He resides in Orange County, Palm Springs, Arizona, and International resort stay-cations. His abstract work on wood and other materials are in the United States and international collections. He has a working studio in Palm Desert, California.
Stroll up and down Canyon Drive to see these creative benches. They most certainly will bring a smile to your face. Oh, if you need to stop and rest, be our guest, and remember, we have great people-watching in Palm Springs.
Well, actually, it is 11 days, but the banner still flies, calling it Modernism Week. With approximately 350 scheduled events running from Feb. 15-25, you can imagine the buzz.
Hopefully, you have visited the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels website to find a place to stay while you experience Modernism Week. If you do not have a reservation, it is best to call the hotels directly because there may be cancellations at your favorite property. Besides, they appreciate learning ahead of time what your specific needs are to make it a perfect visit.
What can you expect at Modernism Week?
There will be lots of people. Last year, an estimated 105,477 visitors found their way to our city to learn and celebrate mid-century modern design, architecture, culture, and art.
Keep flexible. Many of the events are already sold out. Check here what is still available and purchase your tickets before you arrive.
We highly recommend taking the double-decker bus tour if it is still available. The tour guides are incredibly knowledgeable, and you learn a wealth of information about the architecture and history of Palm Springs.
New this year is an Illuminated Twilight Tour. This excursion will surely provide a look at the beautiful lighting of homes in Palm Springs. Expect to be awed by the creative lighting systems, sometimes even showcasing our ancient palm trees.
Note: All double-deck tours leave from the Hyatt Hotel.
Where do I start when I arrive?
Welcome to CAMP. Photo: Kathy Condon
The CAMP (Community and Meeting Place) is an excellent place to start. It is located in the Hyatt Palm Springs on North Palm Canyon Drive. The CAMP is also the place to relax, meet friends, and talk to some vendors who share your love for anything mid-century. Pick up a schedule or check the Modernism website, for there are many things you can see for free.
Note: Free underground parking here is plentiful.
How should I dress for Modernism Week?
We would love to say we will have high 70s and 80s weather. However, we never know what to expect in February. So, the best advice we can give you is to bring layers. Our weather can fluctuate 30 degrees between day and night, so you should not leave your warm jacket behind. You will also want to bring your walking shoes; if you are anything like most of us, you start at one place and get intrigued by something a few blocks away.
Where can I dine while Visiting Palm Springs?
If you have been here and have a favorite restaurant, make your reservations now. During Modernism Week, we locals know it is practically impossible to walk into a restaurant to dine without a reservation.
Here is a list of some Happy Hours presently being offered, but you may want to call to see if they change their hours during Modernism Week.
Should I go hiking during Modernism Week?
Absolutely, though you may find trails a little more crowded than usual. More than likely the weather will be perfect for outdoor activities. We recommend wearing a hat, using suntan lotion, and taking more water than you think you need. Here is a list of some of the trails in Palm Springs.
Transportation in Palm Springs
One way to get around during Modernism Week is by double-decker bus. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs
If you decide to park your car and let others do the driving, be assured we have Lyft, Uber, taxis, and buses readily available. Getting around the city is not difficult. Remember, we are 10 minutes from the Palm Springs International Airport, with over 10 direct flights from various cities in Canada and the United States.
Is it possible to rent bicycles to travel between venues?
Yes. Palm Springs is doing a great job of marking bicycle paths on our major roads. Many neighborhoods, such as the beautiful Las Palmas area, are delightful to visit via bicycle. It is one of the older neighborhoods dotted with massive estates.
Again, we recommend you reserve a bicycle rental before you arrive. Some vendors rent bikes, and you can also see if your resort provides them; many of our small boutique hotels include bikes as one of their amenities.
What if I can’t get tickets for places I want to see?
It’s always fun to explore inside homes during Modernism Week. Photo: Kathy Condon
There is a solution. In October, there is a smaller version of Modernism Week called Fall Modernism Week. Dates have not been announced for 2024, but if you sign up for the Modernism newsletter, you will be among the first to be notified.
In any case, once you know the dates and want to come, be sure to visit Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels and get your hotel reservations. Word is getting out that crowds are less in the fall, and you can be assured of outstanding weather.
Modernism is fun, engaging, and a unique experience not duplicated anywhere in the world. Palm Springs’ motto is “Like No Place Else.” Once you come to Modernism Week, you will understand why that fits our desert community.
