Wake up in Palm Springs with the sun gloriously shining and grab your glamorous floppy hat, recyclable water bottle, and sunglasses. It doesn’t matter if the museums are closed because there’s so much fabulous public art to explore in Palm Springs.

Start your walking tour in the Uptown Design District on North Palm Canyon.

First Stop – Palm Springs Desert Art Center

The center for Palm Springs creative arts is the Desert Art Center at 550 N Palm Canyon Dr, Palm Springs, CA 92262. Often overlooked, this grand building is the home for numerous art classes, exhibits, and theatre performances. One of our city’s latest art installations is on the Desert Center’s palatial grass-covered lawn.

MIDABI is an artist and philosopher focused on large-scale public art using text in sculptures and murals. Residing in Palm Springs since 1998, with family roots going back to the 1950s, MIDABI continues a family tradition of contributing artistically to the desert.

Large, bold, and thought-provoking, MIDABI creates works of art that seek to inspire and challenge the viewer to think for themselves and see reality differently. One may feel shaken, for emotional core values may be questioned.

Since you have your walking shoes on, head on down Palm Canyon; along the way, you will see colorful benches to rest upon, which our local artists created.

Second Stop – Koffi North

If you want to have a cup of coffee, you might want to stop at Koffi North. Be sure to go straight through the store to the back and see the courtyard. The locals hang out here during non-Covid times.

Third Stop – Near the Palm Springs Art Museum

Now that your energy is restored, head down to Museum Way and turn right.

Before you get to the Palm Springs Art Museum and located in what we locals call the “Sand Pit,” (and future home of an underground parking lot) are ten sculptures, 11 ft long X 9-foot fiberglass babies. A barcode replaces any semblance of a face.

Czech artist David Cerny has loaned this art installation to Palm Springs through 2022. He wanted to make a statement about the dehumanization of society due to big tech and data. We are betting you will have an opinion.

Check out the wall on your left as you overlook the Sand Pit. You’ll spot a mural by Santa Monica artist, Peter Tigler, who worked with attendees of all ages to create this 7-foot-tall-by15-wide mural at the Annual La Quinta Arts Festival in 2019. Look closely; it was created by finger painting. The bright colors and numerous scenes invoke the sense of “Wish you were here.” It’s a great place to take a selfie to post your social media.

Fourth Stop – Graffiti Park

Across the street from the Sand Pit is our Graffiti Park. While waiting for the area to be developed, artists are encouraged to express themselves through their art. The various cement pillars and stones, remnants of past construction, serve as canvases. The art is constantly changing, so be sure to come back and see it on your next visit.

Fifth Stop – Right Side of Palm Springs Art Museum

The Palm Springs Art Museum is closed, but the parking lot holds a surprise. Check out the Road Signs scattered throughout the premises. They were created by artist Gerald Clark, who identifies himself first as an artist; and secondly, a Cahuilla Indian.

These Road Signs were created for an exhibit of his work in the Palm Springs Art Museum a couple of years ago. Walk to the museum’s right side first, then see the rest of them on the museum’s left side.

Sixth Stop – Left Side of the Palm Springs Art Museum

After you have pursued both sides of the museum, you will see a large semi-truck parked in the parking lot. In the semi is a three-story all-metal house, called the Aluminare House, designed by Albert Frey and A. Lawrence Kocher. The house was donated to the Palm Springs Art Museum for its permanent collection and will be reassembled in 2021. It is considered to be one of the most outstanding examples of Modernist architecture in the world.

We hope you have enjoyed this tour of some of our public art. There are many more installations–both inside and outside–scattered throughout the city. However, we wanted to give you a small taste of the many treasures that await your visit to Palm Springs.

If you’re obsessed with going behind the scenes, look no further! We’ve created a series of insider videos that take you behind the gates and into the mindset of Palm Springs’ savviest hoteliers. From high-end retreats to budget-friendly getaways, you’ll discover how each boutique hotel has a distinctly different vibe.

   

  • Discover the lush grounds of Azure Sky hotel in Palm Springs. Owner Henry Courtemanche shares his vision for this freshly remodeled mid-century modern hotel and luxurious pool in the Deep Well neighborhood.
  • Visit Dive Palm Springs with Operations Manager and Events Coordinator Steven Janji. Explore this charming retro French Riviera inspired hotel and discover all of the amenities that will help you to disconnect from your busy world.
  • This classic (and surprisingly affordable) bohemian/mid-century styled hotel, the Inn at Palm Springs, is located near the Uptown Design District in Palm Springs.

A new video is released every few weeks, so be sure to follow us on You Tube for notifications.

The long bar with leather seats lined up in front of it at Melvyn's Bar in the Ingleside Estate in Palm Springs

Modernism Week does a great job curating special moments for you, but you can also create your own. Here are some spots that have the ring-a-ding to go full-metal Rat Pack. Some of them are on the Modernism Week website, and some of them are me making sure your trip is, as Frank Sinatra would say, 18 carat. 

Eat like Sinatra in Palm Springs

Johnny Costas — Frequented by Sinatra, they opened in 1976 — a little late for the mid-mod era, but it’s gangster. High class gangster that is. White shirts and black ties for the waitstaff, dimly lit, it’s 100% old school Italian. And it is good. Sit inside in the main restaurant for the full effect. You will leave happy and satisfied.

Wang’s in the Desert — Formerly Jilly’s, the club was owned and operated by Sinatra’s right-hand man, Jilly Rizzo. From Palm Springs Life: “Rizzo, a restaurateur and entertainer from New York City, owned Jilly’s Saloon in NYC, a celebrity hangout in the 1960s. Rizzo was a frequent guest on Rowan and Martin’s Laugh In and had bit parts in the Manchurian Candidate, Tony Rome, The Detective, and the television show Kojak.”

 Even after Jilly’s became Wang’s, it maintained a good reputation for having decent food and solid entertainment. The pandemic took it out, and in 2023 the Desert Sun announced that it would be closing for good. Surprise! It’s back, and still offering pan-Asian food. (Also right next to it is Bit of Country, my favorite “no frills, just good food” breakfast.)

Melvyn’s — Inside the historic Ingleside Estate (rebranded from Ingleside Inn), Melvyn’s bar is always swinging. This is old Palm Springs at its finest. Martinis are de rigueur, and they have a house pianist/entertainer. Sunday afternoons feature jazz jams. The dining room still serves Sinatra’s favorite dish, Steak Diane.

Bar Cecil — A mid-mod Hollywood crossover, many consider this the hippest spot in the Valley. Pronounced “Sess-ill,” there have been abundant celebrity sightings and it made the Michelin Guide in 2022.

Food and fun 

The Purple RoomThe Judy Show is a must see in this Rat Pack supper club. Classically, the show has been on Sunday evenings, as it is the hottest ticket in town. I promise you’ll have a blast but you gotta book it now.

Entertainment

V Wine and Martini Lounge — Wonderful spot in an architecturally significant building designed by Hugh Kaptur. Right next to Koffi on Tahquitz, the fact that I am putting this under just entertainment is misleading. They do have food, and it is delicious, but it’s not exactly a meal meal, more like tapas. Also, the Opal Lounge features some of Palm Springs’ finest entertainers. Minimum cover, delicious cock and mock tails, tasty snacks, and great entertainment in a spot where it looks like Doris Day bumped into Rock Hudson during a 1960s rom-com.

Revolution Stage Company — Not sure if they have a Modernism Week event yet, as they’ve only been around for a year, but man do they have a wide variety of entertainment. Not just relegated to musicals, dramas, and new works, the Revolution brings in cabaret acts from all over the country, and gave us a couple of knockout shows last season. Make sure to check out their website.

 If you’re looking to sample some of Palm Springs local eateries, book Desert Tasty Tours and tell them I sent you. It’s a three-hour walking and eating tour covering four blocks of downtown Palm Springs. You get a little history (downtown is lousy with it), visit Marilyn, drink a couple of cocktails, and leave with a very full belly.

About eight years ago, the owners of the Camelot Theatre (built in the 1960s and the first cineplex in Palm Springs, still with the biggest screen and the best technical abilities in the Coachella Valley) donated the building to the Palm Springs Cultural Center, who turned it into a terrific entertainment complex while still retaining the original blueprint. They’re the premiere spot for film festivals, and it’s where the International Film Fest was born. So, check out the schedule; they’ll have some Modernism Week programming. They are also the home to two theatre companies, and five days a week have live entertainment for happy hour upstairs from 5 to 7 p.m. (look for The Mod Squad — so much fun!).

And that’s what’s cracking. Make sure to make reservations and your trip will go from 18-carat to platinum, pussycat.

Wanderlust must be in my DNA. There are times when my innate desire to travel and explore wells up like hot lava that’s about to burst from a volcano, and I have no choice but to hit the road. Traveling via airplane fills the need, too, but there’s something about being on the open road that feels the most liberating—plus, I can pack as many pairs of shoes and hats as I want without paying extra baggage fees.

A sign reading "Tour de Palm Springs" with a car and people underneath it

February is full of fun happenings in Palm Springs!

Tour de Palm Springs    2/7 – 2/8

The Tour de Palm Springs cycling event is back for its 22nd year, raising money for nonprofit organizations in the Coachella Valley. The event includes food, drinks and live entertainment for participants as they cycle through the city of Palm Springs.

https://tourdepalmsprings.com/

Modernism Week   2/13 – 2/23

The annual Modernism Week in Palm Springs celebrates midcentury modern architecture and design with hundreds of individual events held during an 11-day period, including architectural tours, educational lectures and films, nightly parties, the Modernism Show & Sale at the Palm Springs Convention Center and more.

http://www.modernismweek.com

Art Palm Springs  2/13 – 2/17

The Art Palm Springs art fair, held at the Palm Springs Convention Center, brings together galleries from throughout the US and abroad, showcasing post-war and contemporary art.

https://www.art-palmsprings.com/

Palm Springs Air Museum Gala 2/21

This year’s Palm Springs Air Museum annual gala event will celebrate the 75th anniversary of the end of World War II, featuring celebrity guest and master of ceremony Joe Mantegna, with musical entertainment by Frankie Avalon with Matt Mauser and the Pete Jacobs Big Band.

https://palmspringsairmuseum.org/gala/

A Curated Collection 2/22 – 2/23

Vintage fashion lovers won’t want to miss the A Curated Collection event, happening at Temple Isaiah in Palm Springs. Dealers from across the country will present high end vintage clothing, shoes, jewelry and other accessories.

http://acuratedcollection.com/

By Nicole Anderson, Modern Magazine

If Palm Springs is synonymous with modern architecture, then Modernism Week is the celebration of Modern Palm Springs. Several boutique hotels, including The Triangle Inn Palm Springs, L’Horizon Palm Springs, and The Monkey Tree offer stellar examples of the mid-century aesthetic. Nicole Anderson’s piece for Modern Magazine, beautifully summarizes the appeal of Palm Springs mid-century architecture.

This mid-century modern hotel has everything you need for a fabulous vacation.

At the beloved Desert Riviera, guests become family. This mid-century modern hotel has a loyal — and even international — fanbase, with some guests coming to stay multiple times a year.

The Desert Riviera has everything you need for a fun, carefree getaway.

Poolside firepit at the Desert Riviera

Built in 1951 and designed by Herbert W. Burns, this mid-century modern hotel is now under new ownership, but nothing will change for guests. The Desert Riviera still offers fantastic complimentary amenities, including use of retro bikes, continental breakfast, and concierge services to help with everything from restaurant reservations to golf tee times.

“We’re all about the customer service and community,” general manager Misty Roland says.

The Desert Riviera has a loyal fanbase, with repeat guests coming back annually — and in some cases, multiple times a year. They love that the pool is heated to 93 degrees in the winter, and parties are held throughout the year to mark special occasions — on Valentine’s Day, guests might find a chocolate fountain set up outside, and on the Super Bowl, the big game will be on, with a big spread of snacks.

“Guests like that we’re a boutique property, where the pool is open 24 hours,” Misty says. “There’s an open layout, and they enjoy that we have a lot of greenery and sunshine, instead of a concrete pool area.”

The Desert Riviera attracts guests from around the world — China, Russia, Kenya, England — who love the Palm Springs experience.

“Sometimes, we don’t even have anyone here from the United States,” Misty says. “It’s about understanding one another, and we’ll all sit around the fire pit and talk and play card games.”

The mid-century modern Orbit In's pool surrounded by white lounge chairs in Palm Springs

Orbit In to the Palm Springs modern vibe and leave your worries behind as you lounge in luxurious mid-century style. Breathtaking mountain views, cruiser bikes, and cocktails, all served up at a small boutique hotel where vintage modernism meets the 21st century. Click here to read more about this fabulous property.

At the Avanti Hotel, the guest experience is of utmost importance. Owner Jim Rutledge ensures that he knows where visitors are traveling from and what they enjoy doing, in order to offer recommendations and keep the hotel safe and secure.

Owner Jim Rutledge loves dogs, and goes out of his way to make their stay comfortable — at check in, they receive a bag with a pool towel, sheet for the bed, water bowl, and snacks.

“We very much enjoy having them,” Jim said, adding that hundreds of dogs have stayed at the hotel since its opening. These special guests can be spotted on the Instagram page Dogs of Avanti.

Of course, their owners are also treated well at the Avanti, a 10-room mid-century modern hotel that was built in 1954. There are no resort fees, and guests can take complimentary cruisers for a spin and relax at happy hour and an extended continental breakfast. Because it’s such an intimate hotel, Jim gets to know all of his guests, and he estimates that nearly 50 percent of his patrons are repeats.

“We like to get to know our guests, and where they’re from and what they like to do,” he said. “We get to meet people from all around the world who come here.”

Jim and his brother-in-law purchased the property in the early 2010s, after both took buy outs from their corporate jobs. They started from scratch, even coming up with a new name, and Jim, originally from Seattle, was excited to be in a town he was already familiar with.

“I’ve loved Palm Springs and had been coming here for years,” he said.

For guests who enjoy meeting new people, the pool is a natural gathering place, but there are also hideaways for those who want to have some solo time.

“The rooms have private patios, and you can hang out there and read a book,” Jim said.

One of the Avanti’s biggest draws is its security. There is a locked gate, and Jim has a video doorbell, so he can see who is coming and going and he doesn’t have to let people in who don’t belong.

“I know who is in my hotel,” he said. “We have repeat guests, and single women, who know about the safety factor and they love it. They know that when they come in, the door is locked behind them and no one can come in. I know all of the guests, and people who stay here for two or more nights get to know the other guests, and they all recognize each other.”

A tour bus drives down a street in Palm Springs during Modernism Week

Twice a year, Palm Springs celebrates its architectural roots. We don’t go all the way back to colonial times because we don’t have them; back then California was part of Mexico. Europeans began “settling” here in the mid-1800s with the exception of the Spaniards, who’d been stomping all over California and beyond since the days of Montezuma (1500s). And before that? Native Americans lived here for thousands of years.

Back in the mid-1800s, the U.S. government gave land to the Southern Pacific Railroad, which used it to entice people out west with a promise of land — for a price. That money would help them bring the railroad out west. East Coast Europeans started showing up in the mid-1800s, and by 1890 they had a hotel, The Palm Springs Hotel.

It took about 25 years for Palm Springs to become known for its health benefits, including the healing dry air and the hot springs (agua caliente). This was thanks to the arrival of Nellie Coffman in 1909, who made her Desert Inn the place to visit in Palm Springs.

And then came the celebrities. Just a two-hour drive (back then) from the studios in Los Angeles, it was exactly the contractually allowed time and distance actors were allowed from their respective studios. An added bonus? Paparazzi were not paid for trips over 100 miles. And bingo, the sexcapades were in full swing.

Every single decade from then on has stories about celebrities here in Palm Springs. Many of them were buying vacation homes, and architects were starting to sit up and take notice of the desertscapes and what they could accomplish here.

And now we’re at Modernism Week, the celebration of all of those guys who came here and turned Palm Springs into a mid-century modern architectural paradise (along with our other paradise qualities!).

So, here’s what you can expect Oct. 19-22: 50 events! What?? You can make just as hearty of a meal out of all things Modernism in October as you can at the February bonanza. Let’s have a look-see!

It’s my party!

Cocktail parties: There’s two. Sinatra always sells out, I think before it even hits the internet. Okay, that’s not true, but you know what I mean. The second one looks to be fun as well, so book it, Danno!

Preview party: This is the first soiree and the biggest.

Lizzie and the Triggermen: Called “one of the hottest swing bands in L.A.” by Good Day L.A., Lizzy & The Triggermen has been making waves since bursting onto the SoCal scene.

Mixology cocktail clinics: Held at Mr. Lyon’s, one of Palm Springs most iconic fine dining restaurants. Oct. 19, 20, 21, 22, with two time slots at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m.

Mid-Century Moderns is not on the schedule of official MW activities, but absolutely worth the price of the ticket. It’s a very fun jukebox musical, not for the faint of heart. Begins Oct. 6 on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, with multiple showtimes including a 2 p.m. matinee for after brunch.

Cruising through town

Bus tours — There are a ton of them, and this year they’ve divided them all up by neighborhood. All are a good time, and there is even a twilight tour where certain buildings are beautifully lit to show off their architecture. It’s pretty cool. I am a guide on one of those this fall.

A Modernism Week bus tour. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

Here are the (other, heh heh) celebrity tour guides:

Charles Phoenix: Mid-century pop culture expert Charles Phoenix is a performer, author, explorer, and collector celebrating classic and kitschy American life and style, who has appeared on Jay Leno’s Garage and Conan and been a judge on Cake Wars Christmas and Nailed It.

He’s known for the Big Retro Trailer Slide Show. Lavishing commentary on the very best images from his massive collection of vintage “flea market found” Kodachrome slides, he shares a wide variety of spectacular scenes, décor, classic cars, festive fashions, potlucks, parties, parades, and picturesque locations.

Bella da Ball: Bella is our ambassador drag queen; she stands 6’4” tall without heels. Heavily involved in Pride, and many other activities, Bella also hosts Drag Queen Bingo & Trivia at the Ace Hotel on Monday nights. She recently resumed her Drag Queen Storytime at Palm Springs Library, and we couldn’t be happier to have her back.

Here are a few places I’ve always wanted to see:

Frey House II — Albert Frey had a unique understanding of function, form, practicality, and love for the desert landscape, all combined to provide us this extraordinary legacy. It includes a free day at the Art Museum, and a ride on a bus up to the property. If you go, tell me about it please!

Frank Sinatra’s Twin Palm Estates — Frank owned a lot of houses here in the desert, but this is the one that used to have his own plane out back, and where he used to hoist a flag to let friends and neighbors know it was cocktail hour. It’s also where he lived and fought with Ava Gardner.

Some of these tickets require deep pockets, but there are also free events you can attend and still feel all mid-mod-y.

Free events

Friday, Oct. 20

9 a.m. “Lost, Saved & Endangered: Modernist Architecture in Palm Springs”: Palm Springs Preservation Foundation board president Gary Johns will present his popular slide lecture, “Lost, Saved & Endangered: Modernist Architecture in Palm Springs.” At Palm Springs Cultural Center, 2300 E Baristo Rd., Palm Springs.

11 a.m. The Design of Herbert W. Burns: Palm Springs Preservation Foundation board vice president Steven Keylon will present an entertaining overview of architectural designer Herbert W. Burns’ life and career. At the Palm Springs Cultural Center.

A quick note on the Cultural Center. With everything it offers, it’s gearing up to be a major presence in Palm Springs. It was also built in 1967 as the first cineplex in Palm Springs.

A pool with loungers and palm trees in the background

The Three Fifty Hotel was designed by Herbert W. Burns. Photo courtesy of The Three Fifty Hotel

Saturday, Oct. 21

9 a.m. Hot Purple Energy Architectural Bike Ride: Join us as we pedal our way through architecturally significant neighborhoods in South Palm Springs and highlight mid-century homes. Indian Canyons Golf Resort Clubhouse parking lot, 1100 E. Murray Canyon Dr., Palm Springs.

This is a terrific area to explore. The two golf courses are gorgeous, and Lykken Trail is on South Palm Canyon and Murray Drive. The Walt Disney Fountain is here as are some mid-century homes that you can see on one of the bus tours (there used to be an app for $5 with all of the architecturally significant spots in P.S. on them, so do a Google). Make sure to grab breakfast or lunch at the Indian Canyon Clubhouses, and then drive through the Indian Canyons neighborhood. 

If you’re a hiker, Lykken Trail dumps onto South Palm Canyon just past Murray Canyon, and if you keep going down South Palm Canyon, you’ll hit one of the greatest hiking spots in Palm Springs: the actual Indian Canyons Reserve.

2 p.m. The Alexanders book signing with author James Harlan: James Harlan will also give a talk about the famous Palm Springs developers. ​​Palm Springs Historical Society, The McCallum Adobe, 221 S. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs.

The Palm Springs Historical Society is located in the Village Green next to Cornelia White’s home, which was relocated from where it was first built, at The Palm Springs Hotel. It’s also across the street from Lulu, the best people watching spot in town.

4 to 9 p.m. Shag’s October Modernism Print Release Party: Join artist Shag and guest Nancy Sinatra for a book signing and print release party at The Shag Store, featuring complimentary cocktails, live music, and other fun surprises. The Shag Store, 745 N. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs.

The Shag Store — I’ve never gone in because I’d feel like an imposter; I can’t afford a Shag piece, but it’s a party and everyone’s invited!!

Sunday, Oct. 22

8 a.m. to Noon. Modernism Yard Sale: Brought to you by Chris Bale Homes and hosted by H3K Home+Design, this annual sale has become one of Modernism Week’s most popular FREE events! H3K is high-end, but on the more affordable end. H3K Design+Home parking lot, 501 S. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs.

Here’s a link to all the rest. Use the sorting function and “category” to help you get just where your little heart desires. And you’re gonna need a place to stay, right? Here’s a list of the nearly 80 boutique hotels in Palm Springs; if you’re looking for something mid-century modern, or even more old-timey, you can use that sorting button to find your perfect stay.

I’ll be waving at you from the top of my bus!

The Orbit In is a perfect example of mid-century modern architecture and design. Photo courtesy of Orbit In