Wanderlust must be in my DNA. There are times when my innate desire to travel and explore wells up like hot lava that’s about to burst from a volcano, and I have no choice but to hit the road. Traveling via airplane fills the need, too, but there’s something about being on the open road that feels the most liberating—plus, I can pack as many pairs of shoes and hats as I want without paying extra baggage fees.
For Michael Green, the past two decades feel like they’ve gone by in the blink of an eye.
Michael and his husband Stephen Boyd own The Triangle Inn (https://www.palmspringspreferredsmallhotels.com/stay/triangle-inn-palm-springs), a gay men’s clothing-optional resort, having purchased the property in January 2000. They bought the hotel after spending their careers in advertising, embracing the opportunity to try something new. Now, nearly 20 years later, Michael can’t believe they’ve been hoteliers for so long.
People often ask them if they’re tired of running their own business, or want to try something new. “To me, as long as we still enjoy it, we should keep doing it,” Michael says. “It’s great owning a small hotel. It’s a lot of work, but it’s also a great lifestyle.”
The Triangle Inn was built in 1958, and Michael and Stephen are its fifth owners. They’ve been through renovations and upgrades, and are always doing something to enhance the property. Along the way, they’ve made tons of friends, and have created such a welcoming atmosphere that it’s inspired several guests to actually move to Palm Springs.
“It’s what happens when people come and fall in love with the hotel, fall in love with the city,” Michael says. “All of a sudden, they think, wow, we need to have a part-time place here, or retire here. That has really been a phenomenon that has fueled a lot of Palm Springs’ resurgence.”
If Palm Springs is synonymous with modern architecture, then Modernism Week is the celebration of Modern Palm Springs. Several boutique hotels, including The Triangle Inn Palm Springs, L’Horizon Palm Springs, and The Monkey Tree offer stellar examples of the mid-century aesthetic. Nicole Anderson’s piece for Modern Magazine, beautifully summarizes the appeal of Palm Springs mid-century architecture.
Blogger Debra Schroeder of Traveling Well for Less found herself captivated by the Albert Frey-designed Monkey Tree Hotel, with its mid-century modern architecture and fun vintage decor.
Decorating The Monkey Tree Hotel (https://www.palmspringspreferredsmallhotels.com/stay/monkey-tree-hotel) has been a blast for Kathy Friedle.
Before Kathy and her husband, Gary, purchased the Albert Frey-designed property in 2015, she worked in New York City at the world’s largest architectural firm, overseeing her own studio. Kathy has “a fantastic eye,” Gary says, and has picked up mid-century modern treasures from antique stores and boutiques across Palm Springs. The Monkey Tree Hotel feels like a step back in time to the swinging ’60s, when everyone from Marilyn Monroe to Bob Hope stopped by for the night.
There are standard and deluxe rooms, all of them spacious and equipped with snacks and water upon arrival. Two standouts are the 725-square-foot Presidential Suite, boasting a large private backyard, kitchenette, and two rooms and bathrooms, and The Jungle Room. With its original leopard wallpaper and monkey sculptures, there’s nothing like this 465 square foot room anywhere else in Palm Springs.
The Jungle Room has a California king bed, living room area, and the original bathroom, with a full walk-in glass shower that doubles as a sunken tub and two sinks. There is a huge window, which offers a lovely view of the private 550-square-foot outdoor patio, with a sitting area, tropical landscaping, and orange trees. The Jungle Room was just refreshed, with Kathy adding more vintage finds like orange lava glaze lamps and macrame owls, plus a custom headboard. Eric Clapton was a repeat guest of the Monkey Tree Hotel in its earlier days, and this was his favorite room.
If you’re obsessed with going behind the scenes, look no further! We’ve created a series of insider videos that take you behind the gates and into the mindset of Palm Springs’ savviest hoteliers. From high-end retreats to budget-friendly getaways, you’ll discover how each boutique hotel has a distinctly different vibe.
A new video is released every few weeks, so be sure to follow us on You Tube for notifications.
The name says it all.
At INNdulge, guests take full advantage of being on vacation, relaxing in the saltwater pool and 12-man jacuzzi and reveling in the property’s gardens. This clothing optional gay men’s resort in the Warm Sands neighborhood is a mid-century modern hotel built in 1958, with 24 rooms. Jon Jackson has owned INNdulge for 10 years, becoming a hotelier after retiring as an attorney.
“My hospitality experience is in restaurants, but those skills easily converted,” he said.
An expanded continental breakfast is served in the morning, and an evening social hour and weekend pool parties bring guests together. Visitors often tell Jon they enjoy “the social aspect of staying with other like-minded gay men,” and in turn, he’s thrilled to provide “a great product and service.”
INNdulge, he added, “is a property that caters to gay men, who appreciate the pride of ownership we take in maintaining our property, and who in turn treat it with the type of respect deserving of a home away from home.”
Did you know that Palm Springs is internationally famous? Well, it is. Since 2006, people from all over the planet have been coming to Palm Springs during the month of February for the banging party we call Modernism Week. It’s like the United Nations all up in here.
Before the big event, Modernism Week holds a four-day preview in October called Modernism Fall Preview (a.k.a. Mini-Mod Week), running from October 14 through 17. It’s jam-packed with loads to do — over 50 events!
Modernism Week and Mini-Mod Week are so popular the best events sell out the same day they go on sale. So unless some fabulous bit of wizardry transpires (it might, Palm Springs is magical), forget about Sunnylands and Frank Sinatra’s Twin Palms Estate Tour. There’s plenty left to see though, from significant mid-century modern home tours to architectural double decker bus tours.
You can dress as you like, but a lot of people choose to pull out their pedal pushers and fedoras — whatever it takes to achieve that retro look. During Mini-Mod Week, the town takes on that old-timey feel of the ’50s and ’60s.
There are some cool cocktail-style events, but those sell out pretty fast. One of my very favorite supper clubs, PS Underground, has a brand new show for this year called Beatnik. Hurry and book, their shows are always outstanding.
Even if you miss out on your favorite events, there’s still the main event at the Palm Springs Convention Center where you can browse everything mid-century modern, including art, furniture, and lighting. You can find a list of exhibitors here.
If you’re the curious type like me, or a little iffy on modernism, this article breaks down mid-century modern art for you. The same with architecture here.
Friday night is the big opening night party for the Modernism Show and Sale. Tickets are $75 in advance and $85 at the door. A purchase to the opening night party gives you access to the show on Saturday and Sunday.
Skipping the party? (You’re gonna say “no” to a party?!) You can still buy a ticket for Saturday and Sunday that will cost you one Jackson (soon to be Tubman!) and gets you in both days so you can shop ‘til you bop later on that evening.
Whether you do or don’t plan on going to the Modernism Week preview, but love the vibe of the mid-mod experience, we have mid-century modern hotels for the complete experience. There are 25 of them, all with great amenities — learn more about these fabulous spots here.
The Purple Room, a Rat Pack-inspired supper club, has some of the finest entertainment in town. Here are the weekend shows during Modernism Preview:
October 14: Sharon Sills (every Thursday)
October 15: Branden and James — vocals and cello performing the Lady Gaga songbook
October 16: Branden and James — vocals and cello performing the Lady Gaga songbook
October 17: The Judy Show (my favorite show in town! Every Sunday.)
Also, check out V Wine Lounge, where the vibe is so retro you’ll squee.
By the way, the bus tours are hella fun. I am a tour guide assistant and even from my view (I sit in the bottom of the bus, you’ll be on top — bring sunscreen and hold onto your hats!) it’s a fun and informative 2-and-a-half hour ride.
Hope to see you there, and let’s go retro!
By Susan Montgomery
My daughter (who is 40-something) is a busy surgeon in San Diego. I love to travel with her, but she does not have much time to get away. The challenge is: Where can we enjoy a weekend getaway that is not too far away and still feels like a real retreat? Fortunately, we have a lot in common when it comes to our travel preferences. We both love nice hotels with all the amenities (including a fabulous pool of course), wonderful restaurants and cocktails, unique shopping, and lovely weather in the great outdoors.
We have taken a few trips to Palm Springs together and found everything we want in a getaway, including beautiful weather almost any time of year. This article highlights a few of our wonderful experiences on several trips. If you would like to visit Palm Springs with your daughter (or your mother or your sister or your best friend), you might like to stop at some of these spots too.
Stay at The Weekend
We love staying at the small boutique hotels in Palm Springs where we find privacy and serenity in lush settings. While we’ve had relaxing stays at several delightful hotels, I think The Weekend Palm Springs is an ideal choice for a mother/daughter getaway because it offers stylishly furnished two-bedroom suites. My daughter and I prefer our own rooms so this works well for us. At The Weekend, we can stay together but have our own separate rooms for sleeping. (I’ve heard that I snore, but that can’t possibly be true.)
A classic example of mid-century modern architecture, this sleek, luxurious hotel in the lovely Old Las Palmas neighborhood was once a retreat for many of the “rat pack” Hollywood celebrities. The structure has recently undergone a stunning, multi-million dollar renovation but still retains its historical character. These suites surround a beautiful, inviting pool with lounge chairs and benches. (I can just imagine Marilyn Monroe languidly lounging by the pool.) The Weekend is a peaceful getaway but still within easy walking distance of hip bars, restaurants, and shops. Included with each stay is a delicious, ample continental breakfast delivered right to your room every morning. We both love savoring early morning coffee and really looked forward to the delectable breakfast trays.
Eat and drink
There are so many special spots in Palm Springs for great food and cocktails. Here are just a few suggestions for places my daughter and I love.
Azucar is the restaurant at La Serena Villas and is a perfect stop for lunch or dinner. The setting is modish and open with an upstairs deck overlooking the mountains and the pool. The cocktails are innovative and the food is equally tantalizing. We loved the fish tacos and watermelon salad with feta, but there are many other enticing choices.
Holiday House is another chic restaurant in a small hotel. Its bar focuses on creative cocktails (such as the Aperol Spritz or the Club 55 martini (made with gin, elder flower liqueur, lemon, and rosemary-infused syrup). For lunch, if you are really hungry, you will love the juicy Pantry Cheeseburger or for a healthier option, try the Baby Kale Salad topped with salmon.
Cheeky’s (adjacent to the Alcazar Hotel) is the perfect place for a tasty breakfast or lunch before exploring Palm Springs. We love their cheesy eggs and unique bacon flight accompanied by great coffee or a spicy bloody mary. (Start the day with a zing!)
Wexler’s Deli at another small hotel, Arrive, attracts a lively youngish crowd, but this older babe loved it too. The vibe is rocking and the drinks are refreshing. We tried the savory smoked fish platter that paired well with some unique cocktails, including one that looked just like a snow cone (but was infused with vodka)
For Late Night Fun
When traveling with your daughter, you can’t go to bed too early. After dinner, the night has just begun and there is lots to do in Palm Springs.
My daughter particularly enjoyed the cozy speakeasy, Seymour’s, which is hidden away in the famous steakhouse Mr. Lyons (also an excellent dining choice). Its secret location and dimly lit atmosphere capture the ambiance of prohibition days. Creative cocktails are imaginative and delicious.
The Purple Room in the Trinidad Hotel is an iconic supper club with live entertainment Tuesdays through Sundays and vintage cocktails like Old Blue Eyes, the signature old-fashioned that was evidently Frank’s favorite drink. The dinner menu also offers traditional, nicely prepared steak, fish and pasta options. When we were there most recently, the talented owner, Michael Holmes, was performing a special show with nostalgic rat pack songs that carried us back to a bygone era. I almost expected Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin to stroll out on stage to soothe us with their old favorites.
Also harking back to the Hollywood era is the Casablanca Lounge in Melvyn’s Restaurant at the Ingleside Inn. (Melvyn’s is also a romantic spot for classic dishes like Steak Diane and Bananas Foster prepared flambè at your table.) Guests sip cocktails and dance to live music most nights, making this a perfect stop for an after dinner drink.
To do:
Besides eating and drinking, there is lots to do in Palm Springs—all activities that appeal to both my daughter and me. Most of the small hotels have bikes for guests and plenty of tours are available from celebrity home bus tours to walking tours around various neighborhoods. We love the entrancing Palm Springs Art Museum. The impressive collections focus on art of the Americas and California, including Native American artifacts and contemporary glass art, highlighted by a stunning Chihuly sculpture. My daughter and I have also really enjoyed the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway. In ten minutes, you can ride in a unique tramcar (with a rotating floor) from the Coachella Valley desert up 8,500 feet to a top peak of the San Jacinto Mountains. At the top you can savor the gorgeous views, hike around, and then have lunch. And of course once you are back from your tram ride, you can shop, shop, shop in the many small boutiques with unique items you can’t find anywhere else. We particularly like the shops with mid-century furnishings and décor.
We never get tired of visiting Palm Springs. There is so much to see and do — and eat and drink — and it’s so special to share the experience with your daughter — or your mother. I hope to go back with my daughter for my birthday soon.
Modernism Week does a great job curating special moments for you, but you can also create your own. Here are some spots that have the ring-a-ding to go full-metal Rat Pack. Some of them are on the Modernism Week website, and some of them are me making sure your trip is, as Frank Sinatra would say, 18 carat.
Johnny Costas — Frequented by Sinatra, they opened in 1976 — a little late for the mid-mod era, but it’s gangster. High class gangster that is. White shirts and black ties for the waitstaff, dimly lit, it’s 100% old school Italian. And it is good. Sit inside in the main restaurant for the full effect. You will leave happy and satisfied.
Wang’s in the Desert — Formerly Jilly’s, the club was owned and operated by Sinatra’s right-hand man, Jilly Rizzo. From Palm Springs Life: “Rizzo, a restaurateur and entertainer from New York City, owned Jilly’s Saloon in NYC, a celebrity hangout in the 1960s. Rizzo was a frequent guest on Rowan and Martin’s Laugh In and had bit parts in the Manchurian Candidate, Tony Rome, The Detective, and the television show Kojak.”
Even after Jilly’s became Wang’s, it maintained a good reputation for having decent food and solid entertainment. The pandemic took it out, and in 2023 the Desert Sun announced that it would be closing for good. Surprise! It’s back, and still offering pan-Asian food. (Also right next to it is Bit of Country, my favorite “no frills, just good food” breakfast.)
Melvyn’s — Inside the historic Ingleside Estate (rebranded from Ingleside Inn), Melvyn’s bar is always swinging. This is old Palm Springs at its finest. Martinis are de rigueur, and they have a house pianist/entertainer. Sunday afternoons feature jazz jams. The dining room still serves Sinatra’s favorite dish, Steak Diane.
Bar Cecil — A mid-mod Hollywood crossover, many consider this the hippest spot in the Valley. Pronounced “Sess-ill,” there have been abundant celebrity sightings and it made the Michelin Guide in 2022.
The Purple Room — The Judy Show is a must see in this Rat Pack supper club. Classically, the show has been on Sunday evenings, as it is the hottest ticket in town. I promise you’ll have a blast but you gotta book it now.
V Wine and Martini Lounge — Wonderful spot in an architecturally significant building designed by Hugh Kaptur. Right next to Koffi on Tahquitz, the fact that I am putting this under just entertainment is misleading. They do have food, and it is delicious, but it’s not exactly a meal meal, more like tapas. Also, the Opal Lounge features some of Palm Springs’ finest entertainers. Minimum cover, delicious cock and mock tails, tasty snacks, and great entertainment in a spot where it looks like Doris Day bumped into Rock Hudson during a 1960s rom-com.
Revolution Stage Company — Not sure if they have a Modernism Week event yet, as they’ve only been around for a year, but man do they have a wide variety of entertainment. Not just relegated to musicals, dramas, and new works, the Revolution brings in cabaret acts from all over the country, and gave us a couple of knockout shows last season. Make sure to check out their website.
If you’re looking to sample some of Palm Springs local eateries, book Desert Tasty Tours and tell them I sent you. It’s a three-hour walking and eating tour covering four blocks of downtown Palm Springs. You get a little history (downtown is lousy with it), visit Marilyn, drink a couple of cocktails, and leave with a very full belly.
About eight years ago, the owners of the Camelot Theatre (built in the 1960s and the first cineplex in Palm Springs, still with the biggest screen and the best technical abilities in the Coachella Valley) donated the building to the Palm Springs Cultural Center, who turned it into a terrific entertainment complex while still retaining the original blueprint. They’re the premiere spot for film festivals, and it’s where the International Film Fest was born. So, check out the schedule; they’ll have some Modernism Week programming. They are also the home to two theatre companies, and five days a week have live entertainment for happy hour upstairs from 5 to 7 p.m. (look for The Mod Squad — so much fun!).
And that’s what’s cracking. Make sure to make reservations and your trip will go from 18-carat to platinum, pussycat.
