Near downtown Palm Springs, California, the Korakia Pensione quietly reveals itself on South Patencio Road. 

As someone who lives in Palm Springs, even I was surprised this pensione — meaning a small hotel — was unknown to me until I discovered it through the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels website. 

Korakia is pronounced kor-a-kee-a. The name comes from the Greek word for “crow,” a bird abundant in the mountains of Greece. The hotel’s original name was Dar Marroc, but when Doug Smith, of Greek descent, became the owner in the late 1980s, he changed the name to Korakia Pensione. 

Once you enter the grounds, you will instantly see why Smith felt at home here. Olive trees surround the Moroccan-style architecture, and flowering bougainvillea winds its way up the beautiful arches. When painter Gordon Coutts built the property in 1924 as a hideaway, he brought with him décor reminiscent of his life in Tangier. 

The Marrakech Suite. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

Three-tier fountains grace the courtyard, and a spacious pool is heated to 94 degrees. Yes, you read it right. One of the luxurious amenities is the ability to swim in the middle of the winter under our beautiful Palm Springs starlit sky. 

After a swim, wrap yourself in a robe then find your way to one of the property’s many fire pits. People come here from all over the world, and you’re bound to find yourself sharing stories with other guests.

An extension of the inn

The silent screen actress J. Carol Naish owned the villa across the street from Coutts’ property, and after it was purchased in 1933, it became part of the pensione. The Mediterranean-style buildings and grounds have seamlessly been combined, offering 28 rooms on more than two acres. 

The Naish House. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

The courtyard serves many purposes

Surrounded by olive and fruit trees, the courtyard is the place to be for guests when it’s time to enjoy the breakfast provided by the pensione. Small tables allow you to have your coffee alone, or if you want to join others, moving tables is not a problem, so you can have robust conversations if you desire. 

Then in the afternoon, a lovely tea is served to guests, still providing another opportunity if you choose to engage in conversation with others. 

Tea is served. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

A recent addition to the hotel’s offerings is a Moroccan dinner catered by Eight4Nine, a popular local restaurant. Its success has even caught the staff off guard, so you will want to check their schedule and make reservations if you are in the area when this special evening is offered (which, at the time of writing this article, is once a month). 

Rent the venue for…

A corporate retreat

Recently, the entire space was rented for a corporate retreat — those were some lucky employees, though it may have been a tad hard to concentrate knowing there is a heated pool steps away. There are plenty of spaces for people to scatter during breaks or even to play bocce ball. Later in the evening, join colleagues around the firepit to watch a classic or foreign film on the outdoor screen.

Outdoor movie screenings are a benefit of staying at Korakia. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

To ensure you have the team’s full attention for the retreat, there is no WiFi, TV, or clocks to distract from the task at hand. This is a resort that believes if you want to refresh and renew, technology needs to be left behind.

Weddings

Are you planning a desert wedding? One spot that should be moved to the top of your list is the Korakia. The courtyard, already surrounded by olive trees and bougainvillea, is turned into a magical place, with more flowers added to the arched doors. You now have the perfect backdrop for your vows. 

Cocktail hour is by the fountain, which welcomes guests with rushing water. All around the pool, your friends and family can mingle and share stories about how your life touched theirs. 

The perfect wedding backdrop. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

The celebration doesn’t stop there. A short walk across the quiet street to the other section of the pensione brings you down a path set aglow with lanterns and candles to still another courtyard for your reception. This flat space is perfect for your festive tables. 

I love the idea of your cake on a small table near the firepit. Imagine the effect created in your photos, so the glow reflects in the nighttime sky as you cut your cake together. 

Photo shoots

If you want to do a Mediterranean photo shoot without the expense of flying to Europe, Korakia Pensione can fill that need. Remember, we talked about the olive trees and fountains, and oh yes, they have a spa too, which lends itself to luxury photos. 

Family reunions

I can only imagine getting an announcement from a relative that it’s been decided our next get together will be at the Korakia. Some caveats: children under 13 are not allowed at the resort, and your beloved dog must find another place to vacation.

An authentic experience

I recently interviewed Korakia General Manager Paulette Monarrez, and as our conversation was coming to a close, I asked how long she had been involved with the hotel. Her smile broadened as she said, “15 years.” I then asked what she was most proud of in her work here, and without a beat, she responded, “We have an all-women staff. Also, I appreciate that so much care has been given to preserving the buildings. Plus, authentic Moroccan and Mediterranean artwork in the rooms and throughout the grounds adds a special touch to the Korakia.”

Walking away, I smiled to myself. Touring one of our Palm Springs boutique hotels is always rewarding because they are all so different. My suggestion: Use the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels website to pick out your winter destination and call the hotel directly — they can assist in making the perfect accommodations for your desert stay. 

One of the hotel’s many fire pits. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

Kathy and Gary Friedle left the hustle and bustle of New York City for the laid-back ambiance of Palm Springs, and never looked back.

Kathy is an architect and worked as a studio director at Gensler, while Gary was the chief operating officer at a private wealth management firm on Wall Street, but when their older son announced he wanted to go to college on the west coast, it got them thinking about their family’s future and the possibility of a move and a dramatic change.

“We lived on the east coast our entire lives, but it was starting to wear us down,” Kathy said. “We could have kept chugging along, but we kept thinking, ‘Let’s try something different.’ We had always dreamed about owning a little B&B when we retired, but an opportunity came up earlier than we expected and once the seed was planted, we started to actively look for a hotel to buy on the west coast and decided to give new careers a try.”

They liked the idea of moving to Palm Springs, which is already a tourist destination, and were both fans of mid-century modern architecture. In 2015, the Monkey Tree Hotel property became available for purchase, and the Friedles jumped at the opportunity to reinvigorate the historic, 1960 Albert Frey-designed hotel.

They refreshed the 16 rooms and suites, purchased vintage decor from local Palm Springs sources, and installed the desert’s first Scandinavian spa with a sauna, hot tub, and cold plunge. Gary is also now in charge of the breakfast served every morning to guests, and he has come up with a delicious rotating menu that incorporates some suggestions from diners while also using the freshest local ingredients.

“It’s a true 1960s time capsule,” Kathy said. “We haven’t made a lot of changes to it, intentionally. We want it to remain true to that period.”

The white sign at the front of Alcazar Palm Springs with blue letters spelling out the hotel's name

As fall arrives and with winter approaching rapidly, one’s thoughts often turn to places in the sun. With an average of 269 days of sunlight every year, Palm Springs is a sound choice.

With a perfect combination of ambiance, amenities, and location, a wise choice to stay is Alcazar Palm Springs. This quiet, 34-room, secluded hotel is one block from the central artery into downtown Palm Springs. Yet, the beautiful grounds makes you feel as if you have arrived in Paradise.

Alcazar is part of local restaurateur and hotelier Tara Lazar’s F10 Creative, which focuses on developing and upholding sustainable methods of operation, maintaining genuinely happy and inspired team members, and creating unique and memorable moments for every guest.  The F in the corporate name stands for “fun, food, festivals, family, fashion and friends.” The 10 stands for 6+2+2 — their address 622 North Palm Canyon Drive.

Once you park in the spacious lot, you will see the impressive artistic gates, which give homage to the site, which was once known as the Pepper Tree Inn. These gates are large and display a local artist’s interpretation of the pepper trees once prevalent in the Palm Springs area.

When you walk through the archway to the registration desk, you immediately feel this is an extraordinary place. At the registration desk, you are graciously welcomed, offered drinks, and pastries as you take a breath and begin your time away from home.

Like a cathedral, the palo verde trees provide a canopy over this inviting space. The water screen helps provide the sense of serenity; and quickly calms any travel anxiety. At night, this area becomes a magical, communal space to enjoy the desert sky.

After you settle in, the saltwater pool beckons you to come for a swim. Lounge chairs and towels are readily available and provide the perfect accessories for you to relax after your drive or flight. As your drinks are served in the jacuzzi, you take a deep breath and realize you are now on vacation.

Hungry? No problem, you do not have to leave the premises nor take a shower and dress up. Just take the walkway to Cheeky’s. This restaurant is part of F10 with the same owners as the hotel. Farm-fresh ingredients are used to produce an ever-changing delectable breakfast and lunch menu. On weekends, you find locals waiting in line for late breakfast. Its bacon flight is a perennial favorite of tourists and locals alike.

With your car safely parked, you have access to free bicycles to start exploring Palm Springs. Each neighborhood has distinctive architectural and landscape, which makes any direction you take on our many clearly marked bike paths an exceptional experience. After each use, bicycles are thoroughly disinfected as part of Alcazar’s Covid-19 protocol.

After your bike ride, swim, and shower, it is time for dinner. Just a few steps from Cheeky’s is Birba, where the menu is seasonal and the ingredients perfectly fresh. This outdoor restaurant has a great story. The owner’s husband’s family is from Italy. When F10 decided to add another restaurant to its portfolio, he said, “I would like a restaurant where we could use my grandmother’s recipes.

The name, Birba, in Italian means “Little Rascal.” It was the name his grandmother called him when he grew up.  Reservations are recommended.

Robert Hunt has been the manager of this hotel since it became Alcazar in 2011. He has watched over every detail of its creation. When the cleanliness of even the courtyard chairs was mentioned, he replied, “I’m a little OCD about keeping this place immaculate, sometimes to the despair of my team.”

Eleven years is a long time for a hotel manager to be in one place; the obvious question was, “What has kept you here so long?” He said, with a broad smile, “We realize we have to change with time. I am a fortunate person to make creative suggestions, and once approved, I am the one to implement them. Besides, gesturing his hands to the beautifully serene courtyard, “Can you think of a better workplace than this?”

From The Weekend to the newly-expanded Willows Historic Palm Springs Inn, the hotel landscape of Palm Springs is changing.

There’s never been a more exciting time to visit a Palm Springs boutique hotel and cast off winter’s gloom.

Several hotels, including The Weekend Palm Springs, are now open and welcoming guests, while timeless favorites, like The Willows Historic Palm Springs Inn, have recently expanded. At the Desert Riviera and Hotel California, there’s even a brand new owner.

Two new hotels — The Weekend Palm Springs and Tuscany Manor — both have roots in Palm Springs, as they were built in the 1970s. A newly renovated 10-suite hotel, The Weekend offers sophisticated mid-century modern furnishings. The living rooms are spacious, the bathrooms have rain showers and L’Occitane toiletries, and the private patios are made for relaxation, with lounge chairs and fountains. In the morning, a complimentary breakfast is delivered to guests.

“What people really love is the space and attention to detail,” owner Mark Hermann says.

The Willows Historic Palm Springs Inn has long been one of Palm Springs’ most legendary properties, originally serving as a private getaway for a Los Angeles millionaire in the 1920s. For years, this graceful hotel had only eight guest rooms, but the property doubled in size when it was joined with the nine-room Bishop House. Guests can travel between both buildings via footpaths.

“The Willows is a confection of the past,” owner Tracy Conrad says. “It recreates a more gracious and lovely time in two twin historic homes which have hosted luminaries, dignitaries, scientists, and royalty.”

Neil Mehta is the newest hotelier in Palm Springs, having purchased the Desert Riviera and Hotel California in January. Mehta comes to the desert with a background in real estate development, and experience in the hospitality industry — he owns a hotel in Newport Beach. Consistency is important to Mehta, and he does not plan on making any major changes to his popular hotels.

“That was the most critical element of our purchase, to ensure that guests did not feel a thing,” Mehta says.

He will add fun new amenities, like movies by the pool at the Desert Riviera and giving guests access to both properties. Mehta has long been enamored with Palm Springs, and can’t wait to get settled.

“I am a big fan of the city of Palm Springs and of the culture that has always embraced diversity,” Mehta says. “I’m excited to be part of it, to grow our business, and to provide positive experiences for guests.”

When Ruby Montana packed her bags and left Seattle in 2000, it was front page news.

The Seattle Times ran a story about Ruby’s big move, and the fact that she was closing the vintage store she operated for nearly 18 years. “They ran a funny headline,” she said. “‘Montana Leaves Washington for California.'”

The same quirky treasures that filled the shelves in her store are now on display at Ruby Montana’s Coral Sands Inn, a pink, whimsy place to rest your head. As an added bonus, guests are welcome to purchase any of the collectibles on display.

“I’m more of a kitschy experience, as opposed to pure hospitality or pure mid-century,” Ruby said. “I think the Coral Sands has a sense of humor that is built-in as a result of some of that. It’s a precious little jewel of a place tucked into Las Palmas.”

The Coral Sands was built for the L.A. Rams in 1952, and has six rooms, a nine-foot pool, and a “warm, kind of embracing” atmosphere. Ruby also has small rescue dogs, and several guests have fallen in love with the dogs during their stays and after building relationships, end up adopting them.

“I love everything about this property,” Ruby said. “My favorite room is the Roy Rogers and Dale Evans. It was built with stone and redwood beams; it’s like a lodge. When I stepped foot on the property, I knew immediately I wanted to be part of it. It’s a phenomenal property and works well with my nostalgia; it feels like your grandmother’s lakeside property, on a pool.”

Ruby’s fans from Seattle continue to flock to her hotel, as do return guests from Los Angeles and other environs. She loves having a “fully-integrated life,” where all she has to do is wake up and be where you need to be. “You don’t have to put on a suit and go downtown in a commute,” she said. “My commute is to the kitchen.”

Ruby also loves being around her guests. “It’s required you be a person who enjoys people, and doesn’t have a lot of boundaries,” she said. “I live at my hotel, and my friends tease me that I live in a fishbowl, because you can see in the picture window. My mother used to always say to me, ‘Honey, sometimes I wish you were a little more discerning, is there anyone you don’t like?’ Basically, not many.”

The hotel is seriously special, Ruby says, a “vortex for really incredible things happening.” It’s not unusual for guests to run into people they know, as “coincidences happen here. There’s a certain force that people feel — it’s a very magical place.”

The front entrance to Les Cactus Palm Springs painted green and pink with cacti in pots

Centrally located in the Warm Sands neighborhood of Palm Springs, the historic 1930’s property has been refreshed under the direction of up-and-coming LA-based hotelier/designer Matthew Kurtz in partnership with local hoteliers Richard Crisman and Jeff Brock. Together they strive to deliver a new, whimsical boutique hotel with minimalistic yet chic design and approachable service – all at an affordable price point.

A mid-century modern couch in front of a large window in the Rat Pack room at Orbit In Palm Springs

The Orbit In embraces its mid-century modern roots, wowing guests with its retro furnishings, lively pool area, and — of course — those irresistible Orbitinis, served every night during happy hour.

During their second stay at the Orbit In, husband and wife Kevin Miller and Jinny Park had the place all to themselves, and as they sat outside, looking up at the sky, they started talking about their dream of selling everything in order to buy and run the hotel.

Orbit In owners, Kevin Miller and Jinny Park

“Right then, a huge shooting star went across, and we made a wish,” Kevin said. “Three years later, we bought it. We are guests who ended up buying the hotel, and we try to run it from a guest perspective.”

The Orbit In is a mid-century modern hotel built in 1957, purchased by Kevin and Jinny in October 2007. Guests spend their days gathering around the Boomerang Bar, beating the heat in the pool and under the misters, enjoying Orbitinis during happy hour, and taking advantage of cruisers they can take around the neighborhood.

“It kind of feels like a hotel, but it also feels like you’re coming to someone’s house,” Kevin said. “It splits the difference there. We see a lot of repeat guests, and that’s just terrific.”

Although he is always improving the hotel, Kevin listens to his guests who like the retro vibe and want things to stay exactly the way they are.

“They always say, ‘Don’t change anything,'” he said. “They love it the way it is. They really like the staff. Everyone is personable and knows them by name, and they feel at home here.”

A photo of Paul Kurdian and Sam McDermott

Paul Kurdian and Sam McDermott started their married life off with a bang.

While they were dating, the couple imagined one day starting a business together, and the opportunity arrived on the morning after their wedding.

“On our way to Sunday brunch at my brother’s house, Paul received a call from a former client who had owned another hotel he sold for her,” Sam said. “She told Paul she was ready to retire completely and called to see if he could help with the sale of this hotel. We decided to purchase it ourselves, and nearly eight months later, we began our journey, and the rest is history!”

There were several things about the 18-room property in Palm Springs that appealed to Paul, a real estate broker with corporate experience in operations and management, and Sam, who has a background in strategy, marketing, and business development. The timing was “pretty remarkable,” Sam said, especially since she had once “flirted” with the idea of buying a hotel, and owning one was something Paul had always dreamed about.

“How this came about was surreal because we wanted to extend our life partnership in a new and exciting way,” Sam said. “Many newlyweds have children within their first year of marriage — we gave birth to a new business.”

The hotel was in need of some serious sprucing up, and Sam and Paul started by removing “anything old and outdated.” They replaced “everything that guests could see and touch,” and added conveniences like Qi wireless charging stations in every room. 

All of the carpeting was ripped out, new flooring was installed, and each room now has its own air conditioning and heating unit. The walls are covered with fresh paint, the rooms are filled with new furniture, beds, linens, and towels, and the pool is surrounded by colorful umbrellas and loungers. Perhaps the biggest change Sam and Paul made was giving the property a new name: The Inn at Palm Springs.

“Inn at Palm Springs is the very first property you see on your way into Palm Springs on Highway 111,” Sam said. “We like to tell people we are the Gateway to Palm Springs. When you visit, you’ll see a happy and colorful vibe throughout the property.”

The hotel is dog-friendly — Sam and Paul’s own pup, Gus, lives with them on-site — and able to host small groups for special occasions. 

“We’ve had several guests tell us they plan to come back with a group and take over the inn,” Sam said. “We find joy in helping our guests create great memories with their friends and family, and we look forward to hosting more intimate gatherings in the future.”

Because Paul and Sam have both traveled so extensively for work and fun, they came into this with a clear vision for their hotel: It had to be comfortable, clean, and private, a space where guests felt welcome the instant they stepped onto the property and left feeling they had a positive experience that was an excellent value. The effusive response they have received from patrons shows they accomplished what they set out to do.

“We’ve been very grateful for the wonderful guests who have stayed with us,” Sam said. “It is the positive feedback we receive from guests that keeps us motivated each day.”

A white comforter on a black bed frame under a black and white artwork at The Jazz Hotel Palm Springs

Jazz Hotel Palm Springs stands out with its sleek design and chic decor.

Owner Annick Laberge has filled this mid-century modern property, formerly known as The Cheetah Hotel, with black and white furniture and original artwork, as well as surprise pops of color. While people might think the dog-friendly hotel’s new name is a nod to the musical genre, it was actually inspired by someone close to Annick.

“Jazz is my white Pomeranian dog,” Annick said. “He’s all white with black eyes and a black nose, and the whole hotel is white with a little bit of black. I like the name too because it’s easy so people don’t forget it.”

A gilded mirror leans against a white wall next to a small table in a room at Jazz Hotel in Palm Springs, California

A gilded mirror stands out in a clean and sleek Jazz Hotel Palm Springs room. Photo courtesy of Jazz Hotel Palm Springs

Annick has spent the last decade working with her father in real estate, managing apartments and investing in buildings in Canada. She fell in love with Palm Springs during visits to Southern California, and found that “there’s something about the desert that speaks to me personally.” When the opportunity came to purchase the Cheetah Hotel in the spring of 2023, Annick was drawn to its “good bones and good location,” and was excited to “put my stamp on it and do a redesign and rebrand with my sister.”

Guests often comment on how much they enjoy the hotel’s spot on a cul-de-sac, where you can’t hear the traffic and can get a good night’s sleep.

“It’s laid-back and quiet, and some people say it’s off the beaten path and a hidden gem,” Annick said. “We’re aiming to be a nice place for people to come to that’s close to downtown Palm Springs, so if they want more action they can go to the restaurants and parties just five minutes away.”

The pool at Jazz Hotel surrounded by fringed umbrellas and lounge chairs with a white ring float in the water and palms and San Jacinto Mountains in the background

The pool at Jazz Hotel is a centerpiece of the property. Photo courtesy of Jazz Hotel Palm Springs

There’s no place like the Korakia Pensione.

The historic property says it “blends the silhouette of Tangier with a whisper of the Mediterranean,” and is the perfect escape. There are two restored historic villas — the Mediterranean Villas and Moroccan Villas — with spacious rooms featuring wood-beamed ceilings, stone showers, balconies, private patios, French doors, and antique and handmade furniture. The Moroccan villa was built in 1924 as a hideaway of Scottish painter Gordon Coutts, who wanted to recreate his earlier life in Tangier.

Guests at Korakia Pensione are treated to outdoor yoga and meditation sessions, hot breakfasts in the Moroccan courtyard, use of books in the library lounge and cruisers to get around town, Moroccan tea service in the afternoon, and vintage movies screened outside at night.

The Moroccan courtyard is filled with fountains, a stone waterfall, olive trees, date palms, citrus, and bougainvillea, and as the sun begins to set, staff light hundreds of candles and lanterns across the property, setting off a magical glow. Massage treatments can be booked in the indoor/outdoor spa lodge or in guest rooms, and the two heated saltwater pools, with views of the San Jacinto Mountains, are open all day and night.